TonyT

Have you considered just getting a joinery company to build the frame on site. and dealing with the insulation yourself?

https://www.farrat.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/DS-FTB-Farrat-TBF-20a.pdf

Grind to a halt? The building hasn’t started yet, get a local builder who does this as their bread and butter. A quick search engine search throws up a few that do the planning and all trades in one company chasing architects for months, overcharging, sounds like an expensive mistress to me.. get rid.

Great as they are a ‘professional’ complain to their governing body. So when they start the small claims you are in first. just cause they come to site with shiny shoes doesn’t mean they can’t be told what to do.

Ask for a copy of his time sheet/diary. let’s be honest he/she is opening up an electronic drawing and making some changes, not getting a fresh sheet of paper out and drawing it again. or say you will pay 8 hrs, and tell them to jog on..or they get nothing.

Agree, sometimes better to drill bricks with hammer /sds turned off and just drill. also not seen fixings in the restraint straps. I’ve seen worse..and that never moved so don’t worry too much.

Where is the controller to be located in relation to the other equipment can you run a spare cable and go with the ashp guy decision and if it works great and if not the spare cable let’s you go old skool at the same location just swapping equipment out. or run flexes and make a test rig and make it work and then change to fixed wiring once the wiring has been figured out

Look up part M of the building regs i emailed my building control dept as I wanted the switches in my extension to be the same as the old part of the house. different heights from non compliant to compliant - they were quite relaxed about it, so may be worth an email

I run my workshop Hoover in the room near me when I’m working with insulation, helps keep the fibres away from me... I like the b&q white recycled bottle insulation and use that when I work in the old part of the house, easy to buy when passing and non itchy..

It’s not too bad, it’s a pity the extra timbers that were added were not extended to the edge of the existing joist rather than stopping short. I would drill 12mm holes in the timber then into the wall, clean holes out and inject resin. cheapest way is to buy 10mm rods on long lengths and fit them oversize, put a square washer and nut on and push into hole- let resin set then tighten up. do the holes in staggered lines 600mm apart. nail all the joist hangers- Simpson joist hanger nails. cut a timber to fit in the steel flange and hammer it in then timbers from this to adjoining timbers. Use 90mm ring shank nails.

Every hole in the joist hanger should have an appropriate nail in the hole. my structural engineer specified a mechanical fixing- like a shield bolt. he kept the the resin fixings for the truss that was adjacent to the wall. Fixing every 600mm.

Put the screws in at 45 deg angle on the timber.

climb up and move the insulation.....

gripple hanger will be easier to suspend and alter height

Yikes, that looks a bit rough. Stevie Wonder building corporation?

Look for the source of the problems before coming up with a solution, as you may end up doing unnecessary work

I personally don’t believe in rising damp, I’ve done a few training courses with Mike Parrett Associates, and generally lack of maintenance, improper use, lack of heating and ventilation can lead to ‘damp’ get some windows cracked open, get some heating on and check rainwater goods to start with, ground levels are correct etc. do you only have 1 air brick? Good cross flow is needed under suspended timber floor.

Dig up the concrete outside, dig down install stones wrapped in landscape fabric to aid removal of water from wall, see if you can do this along the perimeter of the wall. French drain may be required. allow time for wall to dry

External levels look too high

Any downpipes, guttering on the other side that has leaks? what’s the wall construction? What’s the floor construction? under floor vents clear if any? what’s the room used for? Drying clothes with excessive moisture? any extractor fans? is the heating used in the room? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rempro-Neutraliser-Anti-sulphate-Tanking-Treatment/dp/B075HLS6L4/ref=asc_df_B075HLS6L4/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=255660170781&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17943681255650039812&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046864&hvtargid=pla-427215058929&psc=1 For removing salts.

Plastic conduit and adaptors into boxes

Bungalow? 2 storey? suspended timber floor? need more info for a solution.

I’m with Joe90 on the tuck trowel, different widths available and are excellent.

For the gap at the door frame use https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-TROWST-Stone-Trowel-Mastic/dp/B0013B95YC/ref=asc_df_B0013B95YC/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=214440742293&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16323749131247911257&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046864&hvtargid=pla-420778815299&psc=1 Available from builders merchants too. apply with a trowel ( funny that) and smooth to a finish.

I think getting sign off from my other half was the hardest part, not that this was particularly difficult, it’s just things like choosing radiators in advance so that pipes can be first fixed accurately, prior to insulation, flooring etc.. likewise radiators then require noggins/dwangs for decent timber fixings so affects finishing walls...