craig

@Dreadnaught yes, we motorise them, you can also hook them up to a home automation system supplied and connected by others. It’s something you would need to contact us about.

We did a similar design for a house just outside Glasgow for the concealed blind (by others). We also do concealed venetians externally as part of the windows system and have done for some in the UK about to for another.

It’s the other way around in my view, the hardware for operating the window runs down the side of the window sash and frame on fully reversible. I’ve always found turn / tilt (not tilt/turn) to be very simplistic in operation and mechanically sound. Tilt / turn is effectively the same window but is more commonly used in the UK and more awkward to use yet still very simple. It leaves a horrible gap in my view and exposes the operation to the external elements. This can cause the hardware to degrade a lot quicker than it should because of this exposure.

5mm glazing packers, silicone, battens either side, will do the job well. Done similar on a few projects in the past. Just make sure the fixings for the beadings are strong and long enough. It might also be worthwhile to run some compriband between the bead and glass for protection or silicone.

You’ll find the technical drawings here. https://products.idealcombi.com/en/product/futura-plus-sliding-door-with-low-threshold/ From my understanding width and height is certainly an issue. You may find the max sizes here or by giving them a call.

The number one reason as to why sliders will leak or not function properly in my experience - is that they have not been laser levelled and therefor not square / plumb. If a slider is out by 3mm over an expanse of 3 metres plus, it can cause operational difficulties. This "can" have knock on effect in regards to water ingress, I'm not saying that is the issue it's just a possibility to be aware of. The picture above looks like the detail of sliding door systems provided to many manufacturers from Seigena, very good systems. We have experienced similar issues in the past from non Austrian suppliers and replaced the foam pads and sealed it better. In newer models, this is no longer present. A good way to determine where the water is actually penetrating, is the good old fashioned hose test.

Agreed 100%, 20+ years ago - I would have settled something by knocking ten bells out of them (partly due to the rough area I lived in, in Edinburgh.) It's how we resolved things. I then mellowed a rather lot and realised the importance of being able to walk away, not let things bother me in the slightest and generally being a very chilled and relaxed person. It paid dividends.

You know help is available if and when you need it and from many sources, hope things get better (I know they will) - chin up.

Illbruck ME500e with a butyl adhesive will do the job, I would also use Illbruck TP600 around the frame of the window. I would have used llbruck PR007 for the window installation. Looking good though, good job.

Not that I'm aware of, the concealed hinging on tilt and turn windows don't have friction stays.

Unless they have a restrictor fitted, they will swing into the room.

European suppliers such as Internorm who have quoted you and other Austrian / German and amongst others, can and will manage 1500mm - the concealed hinges can handle a fair bit of weight. It's not that it's a size which is to big or to heavy, it's just a large single pane opening into the room. Most suppliers recommend against it for a couple of reason, mainly weight related.

1500? It's a big single pane window, that's about 1300mm opening into the room when you deduct the sides. Have you considered splitting it into two openers? One master tilt/turn one slave turn?

I personally prefer tilt & turn over outward opening windows, top hung, reversible etc. shop around and check the quotes are on par with each other. Check installation, aluminium cills and so forth are included.

That is correct, no penalty exists when 3rd party certification is produced. However, when no 3rd party certification is available a penalty is applied until the documentation is received. Doesn't need to be certified but a 3rd party certificate,proving the claimed values must be or the penalty stays intact. All values must be proved and I'll double check the actual penalty on Monday with our certifier.

It doesn't penalise small places, it's just harder to achieve due to issues such as heat loss, airtightness etc. It doesn't penalise a smaller house, it's just "easier" to achieve on a larger build.

If your being charged for certification and going down that route, then the consultants should be directing accordingly. Use a non certified product and the suppliers / manufacturers cannot verify the claimed values, of course you'll be penalised. How do you know and how does the PHI know, that the product does what it says on the tin? The numbers / values / certificates, are very important.

I need to double check the actual penalty but let's say the claimed values for the glass are 0.52ug but can't be proven, they would apply a higher ug (let's say 0.6ug as an example).

If the product you are using claims a certain value to you and you decide to use that but the supplier / manufacturer cannot back up that claim with 3rd party certificates, proving the claimed values. You'll be penalised on those particular products (i.e windows).

He has a couple of cracking builds in the pipeline and done a few crackers in the past.

Yes, specialises in para 55 builds.

Richard Hawkes, we were responsible for the certification ?

Whoever told you that is talking nonsense, you can use any product you want that meets the requirements and has 3rd party certification. If you can't prove the values, you will be penalised.

Respectfully I disagree with you and just because you have ran the house through the software, it doesn't mean it is a PH or better. All the PHPP is telling you, is from the data you have entered is that it either passes or fails. Where's the proof to show the as built details, thermal bridging evidence supplied and so forth. I don't doubt for a second that it will be built well and may pass an actual certification process. How do you know? Because the PHPP says it is?

Yes, very nice house and family to boot.