craig

I still get incensed by them 😂

For Roma, you're looking at the following. Ignore the addons of 100mm and 50mm, not required but it means we need a minimum of 150mm space above the window, the box size is height 200mm but sits over the frame of the window by 50mm and the depth required is 142mm (so you can clad or render over the front of the box.

+1

Potentially yes, it would need to be checked. How likely is it? Really depends but being right up against the soffit means that you could lose part of the glazing view as there is no space above to fit the box and the box would sit in front of the glass as a result. It's not a nice look when this happens.

I think I have something somewhere “in German” which I’ll need to hunt for. 1: The standard slats that @Bitpipe has are good but 2: @Dan F was that customer that pushed you 😂 he had his mind made up, decisions made on what he wanted and had done his research. The CDL slats from Roma are better for blackout. I reckon over 95% but Dan would be best placed to advise. Dan actually taught me a few things about the blinds that you don’t really get taught. You can’t learn unless you speak/read German or ask the question in a way a German speaker understands. Then standard is more than good enough. Certain aspects add costs but some are most definitely worth it, we can supply them with or without the windows. You don’t need to order windows from Gaulhofer to get the blinds. It is much easier though.

Hi David, Dropped you a quick message but here is my introduction which will help answer that question.

You’ll actually find that Uf values (uPVC system dependant) are generally thermally better than wooden windows. Especially uPVC systems with 5 / 6 chambers and or insulation within the chambers. Not a lot you can do now other than what @Gus Potter and others have said. You need to open up to see what hasn’t been done and get them to rectify or do it yourself.

I meant to say to a timber extension (packer) to the head (top) of the window, with insulation between that and the brick.

Timber head extension insulation between brick and extension, then attach some plasterboard and then finish it off, you wouldn't know it was there.

Of course, it is but they're also taken the piss. They wouldn't offer the discount unless challenged or requested and then offering an extra 30/35% just means in my humble opinion that their tactics are back to the old ways of white gold and their initial markup is sky high. It gives us all a bad name tbh, those who are trying to be upfront and honest with a fair but honest markup are the ones suffering the most.

Sure, but it’s expensive as well. We are the UK retailer for them but you should pbe able to find solutions within the UK which are more cost effective solutions. https://www.richard-brink.de

Bring the drain up to purple line and you can use a channel system but slot drain at position you have also works

This is a flush track system as is, just wasn’t sure it was Reynaers at first. It’s all about detailing, detailed correctly it can be flush internal and external.

Exactly this, or some type of slot drain or channel drain.

It’s pointless, it’s not needed and completely unnecessary, especially if you have drainage in front. There’s no point to have that cill detail added.

Yes they do, I’ll dig it tomorrow.

Why is the cill specified? Who is supplying you with the sliders, what make? Looks similar to Reynaers Masterline CP130/155s That track should have bottom or front drainage options if Reynaers. With that cill detail you have zero chance of a flush threshold, get rid of it.

Yes, have a look at Solarlux Cero - not cheap but much better.

You shouldn't need to take the door off the hinges, the black section should slide, Loosen the fixings and then push them up/down and it should give you the relevant movement you need left/right. I'm not certain of the exact hinge but it certainly indicates this to be the case.

This should be your vertical adjustment (height) These should be your lateral adjustment (left / right) The top (remove cap) should be your compression adjustment (in/out) Edit: Worth noting, that you may have to release the small grub screw to adjust.

Where do you live? For example near a busy road, airport? You need to consider the type of nouse, where the noise is travelling for example. It might be around the frame. It’s likely just PU foam which won’t block all the noise, compriband would have helped but to late now bug it could also be travelling up through the ground etc. Extra gasket isn’t going to do much tbh.

If your still looking for an installer send me a message, happy to put you in touch with our guys.

If it is external, it’s doing the job it’s supposed to.

If between glass panes, glass unit has failed. Replacement glass unit required.