Faz

Got mine first fixed to timers in the airing cupboard. Don't have a cat so that wasn't a consideration ?

The electric mats are low wattage and not a nightmare to run I understand - I went for this in the end even though I had spare ways on the GF UFH manifold. In any event, the spreader plates are not that effective through a timber floor so having a mat under the tiles makes sense really.

I'll take one on Monday - first Saturday off tomorrow for a month!

Having just been through it I don't envy you that job! Best advice I can give is to make every effort to keep the working area clean.

They did - the roofer take it off when they batten.

Here is mine mate if it is of any use to you mate.

Finally finished that attic room today - the en-suite took 2 days! Too many fiddly areas. Now for the garage ceiling..... Lots of long runs there so shouldn't be so bad apart from the fact that so much gear is in the way on the floor.

If you implement the LADs clause your are going to get into all sorts of interesting discussions about the weather, materials shortages, COVID and possible spec alterations if you have made any. The outcome of discussions will probably result in him walking off site - think carefully how you want to kick this chat off!

Done 88 flats in C and I sections - the contractors f*cked them all up over the years. 97mm planed CLS stud from then on - solid as a rock and no issues. Will never use Metsec again because every installer will not put it in right. All idiots. The remedial btw when it is all screwed is to brace between partitions in steel - good luck with the dream being sold of independent free standing walls. All a joke. Done right - it sounds fine - good luck with getting it done right though. As you can see - this still gives me the hump 5 years after sorting the last Metsec partition! Doing my house in block btw with a little bit of stud (CLS) upstairs.

Be under no illusions - it is a horrible job and the mess is unreal. Stay on top of the mess but keep potentially useful offcuts although these pile up. I have found that even 5mm offcuts have been useful elsewhere in the house so it is the real mess that need to go.

If your trusses allow a 25 - 30 mm void after the install of the PIR you should be fine without vents depending on your breather membrane. You just need to be careful (if such a thing is possible) that when you smack the PIR in place it stays level with the truss. Half the trick is to pull out the PIR so it doesn't get too close to the membrane as you smack it in - too late once it in place coz you can't get behind it to pull it back out.

To save me the legwork of looking at all of these, does any of them say - 'just drive the forks through it a few times'? Kind of what I was thinking on the next site when the time comes - the big ones (mine is a 535-140) are a bit of a Tiger Tank when it comes to structure! Thankfully have yet to test it vs structure on my current site!

Demolition counts as commencement works - could clearing the patio be considered demolition? Possibly.

No point - I am putting the PIR in the upstands, roof and in the garage ceiling below.

25mm insulated plasterboard to go on top. Taping is belt and braces.

It comes because they hate doing the job mate - worst trade to do all day long.

I like the fact that the cgi company have awarded you a Porsche to sit on the drive - that is highly unlikely looking at that build!

The end is in sight for me thankfully - what a horrible job to do! Then I have to insulate the garage ceiling..... Far easier though as noggins rather than bracing although 2 sheets of PIR need to go in it.

I am doing this at the moment and yours looks like a proper pita with that bracing! As said above get gun grade foam and fill in any small gaps. Do you need to leave a void of 25 - 30mm to the membrane? Generally specified to avoid condensation. I bought this tape - Gocableties Aluminium Foil Adhesive Insulation Tape 50metres x 100mm (4") Silver Premium Metal Roll: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools My technique is to cut it to size and a bit and use a bit of stud and a lump hammer to smack it into place while swearing at the chippie with each hammer blow for not propping the trusses true plumb. Buy some insulation saws (I got the Bosch jigsaw blades) as it cuts down dust. My other finding is that it is worth taking the time to keep your work area clear of scrap - it will pile up and get in the way otherwise.

Oh - and he hasn't put on any external mastic either - a nice fun detail come winter.

The scheme next to mine installed the windows flush fit and they look shite - in keeping with the rest of his scheme tbh. This photo may help (I took it mind to show how the sun and shadows highlight defects!) Look at the shadows.....

I am using Solarcrest / Airflow (and have used them before) on mine - they have done the design and first fix now. While you may think the design aspect is chucking up some duct to the rooms it is a bit more involved if you want to minimise tight radius turns (noise) or excess ducting in habitable rooms. The lad Nathan there does a decent job on the layouts and will tweak if you have queries.

Yeah - that would be a bit of a mission for £100 worth of board! Best of luck with it mate.

As mentioned above you will need the engineer to design the footings. I imagine they will go a bit deeper and spec Claymaster poly board (use Claylite - same stuff but cheaper or, if you are close to Cambridgeshire come and see me as you can have a load I have left over!)

What my Airflow system is supposed to do is switch off the thermostat from heat recovery to heat removal when necessary - ie switch the heat exchanger to the other way. Time will tell how effective it is.