Andeh

Well, after 4 nights of sat next to the meter (nothing happening) then a couple nights where it did happen and I slept through it.....then £40 on appliance monitoring equipment..... FOUND IT!!! Somehow I had 'prehea / optimum start' enabled in our utility room zone, which is a zone which never really comes on due to plant room...with the warm cylinder, drying clothes etc it was also a room that isn't directly connected with external temperatures. Checking the heatmiser app for this room shows the preheating kicking on at 3am...ahead of 4am when all the heating zones really kicked in! On the bright side...at least I know Heatmiser has an optimum heat capability

Just whatever paints cheapest, twice used Leyland 25L with an extra litre or so of water in for the brick to absorb to good effect.

I'm the past I've successfully painted with a 50L builders bucket, large soft Broom, and a good 25% extra water. Always before I've needed to put a floor down mind you.... It's Messy but goes on super fast and super thick.

Very much agree!

I'm also interested to know!

Remind me tomorrow, I'll take pics of our sink! Similar design/setup to yours.

Thanks again! We have our local supplier coming out on Saturday. Are you able to provide a indication of price? We have a few 1.4 x 1.4 windows and some big sliders at 8m x 2.4m so cost is likely to be punchy!!

It can...but only between the hours of 3am and 4am, and content is solely that of a very bleary eyed & frustrated man in his pants counting wattages! 😍 In other news..... Once again....I spent my night staring at the meter, and for a second time....the bloody energy demand did not materialise! House sat merrily at around 250w Two energy tracking plugs arrived this morning, which will target the American fridge freezer & dish washer as starters..... Ill update accordingly.

Yes, but all very young! It's definitely mocking me.. My current process improvement to enable me to monitor from bed....

So on Thursday and Friday night, my phantom drain used nigh on exactly the same amount of power 1.07kWh (& 1.05kWh) from 3 to 3.30 then 0.65kWh (& 0.67kWh) between 3.30 and 4am. It's hard to imagine a scenerio where the power would be so evenly matched between two days, but happen entirely at random on whether it does it or not. ... But nothing last night per my above post.

Well, sat there between 3am and 3.45 this morning, aaaaand.... Nothing! (2 out of 2 morning monitors drawing a blank) Bought a couple of energy monitoring plugs. American fridge freezer (Samsung twin doors and big draw jobbie) did get glared at for a while with a defrost thing in mind.... Interesting to see it suggested above. It has an ice maker, G rated or something for effieincy... So it'll be the first thing to be plugged into a monitor. Legionnaires is turned off. No solar diverter Several AC units but I think if notice if one of them came on with a change in temp. It's occurred even with an outside temp of several degrees. Grrrrrrrr

Oh really? Because you end up with a really small delta T and ASHP struggles to compensate?

It's heat sandwiched between two layers of insulators. Wood on top, insulation before....the more you 'insulate' the bottom the more heat is retained for it to force its way through the wood... If you have (for example) 10mm insulation below the screed and 25mm of wood above more heat will be dissipated below the 10mm then above the wood. On the flip side if you have 200mm insulation below screed then your post is correct, wood will slow it down but temperature will eventually find its way through (though return temps will remain higher then if the heat could escape quicker....)

How much insulation do you have underneath? How thick is plywood and floor boards? Wood is an insulator technically, my parents had hardie floor at 22mm thick and 14mm thick floor boards and it did take a very high flow rate to really get the rooms warming up at a decent base. Then again, they only had 75mm insulation underneath....

DHW is for times periods per Cosy tariff, also DHW is cold in the morning so it isn't the water... Crank heater is an interesting one, I'll check external temps with the power usage. Would it heat the ashp even if its not being used? I presume heatmeiser/Samsung ashp has no comms for a pre warm function. Edit... Nope no relation to outside temp despite fluctuations below freezing up to 10 degrees. Even fridge freezer or normal appliance, for it to only ever start at 3am... Never any usage between 9pm and 3am when we are winding things down/going to bed.

Ever since we moved to Octopus energy & could track the 30min usage I have noticed something using electricity at 3am. It is generally speaking 0.8 - 1kwh from 3 to 3.30am then sort of half that from 3.30 to 4am. Sometime it peaks to 1.4kwh and 700w other times the usage is several 100w both 30min periods. ALWAYS ONLY between 3am and 4am. We have MVHR, ASHP, A/C, Dish Washer, American Fridge, Neff Oven & Neff Microwave, couple of laptops, Washing machine, Water Softener, PV, lots of external lights (PIR controlled, but disabled at night), robot hoovers. Detached bungalow with own self installed supply. ASHP ran in anger during Octopus Cosy periods, usage shows it kicking in like clockwork every morning at 4am. Heatmiser shows the periods. MVHR can see its usage drop post showers as we settle into the night A/C - off with no timed periods set (would also notice via Heatmiser app nay room temp changes) Dish Washer - triple checked it is coming on when it should, always around 5am Washing Machine - triple checked it is coming on when it should, we dont use it that often on timed Ovens/Microwaves - I doubt it Water Softener - no way it would draw that much, though checked its regen during the day and nope Outside Lights - only consumer about 100w when on as LED American Fridge - I cant see it using that power Robot Hoover - cant see it using that power Other then setting an alarm and walking around the house.... can anyone think of anything the above appliances might be doing at 3am!?!? Welcome any thoughts....

FWIW we have a 1ph 12kw unit, never occurred to me to get a 3ph...

Watching this thread with interest. We had 3 ph installed and our electrician sort of explained it as an everything comes in, mixes together and feeds everything out.... But then our electrician was a (expletive deleted)ing moron on anything other then the basics, so I don't know what he did behind the 3ph consumer unit. It all works, but when 22kw car chargers and 3ph solar get installed in years to come who knows what headaches I'm in store for.....

We had brickies who did the walls, who realised that tearing the ROCKWOOL insulation in half (splitting it depth wise) ment it would go twice as far and halve the time they spent up and down the ladders to fetch more... They thought I was OCD in demanding the wool batterns be fitted full width otherwise I end up with half the insulation, "it's too tight to fit... it's always over engineered... Half thickness is plenty insulation... You'll never notice... " Their argument of the house will be more then warm enough anyway had me livid. Every evening for weeks I had to refit all the insulation/drag it out, fit the two halves back together and tuck it in. Then had to check their work and drag the insulation up onto the scaffolding to force them to fit it properly. Arguing with stupid people, who are so stupid they don't realise how stupid they are.

Thanks for that! We are just starting to really look into this in anger. How did you go about ordering and finding a supplier for them? Any advice or recommendations? Thanks

The screed will force the 25mm upstand hard against the wall, and with the DPM etc it never even occurred to me that air could escape through to block and beam. Could run a thick bead of silicone along the interface between insulation and block?? Bigger fights more worth having elsewhere IMO, I don't see that air escape route being a thing in that location.

Get a bigger TV and centralise it by shifting it left?? Prob not be much more once you've removed, patched and repainted the wall and then drank £200 of wine to forget the mess you've made of it!

Thin layers of 25mm PIR carefully and rightly packed around every bit of it outside, expanding foam on any nooks, then tape over the top for good measure, then aluminium sheet over the top of it! That's what I did, ours were I beams so I got lots in the middle of it difficult for the I protrusion but then most of it was behind external blocks with insulation which helped. Try it out over a days work, and see what difference it makes. That looks like quite a large damp patch for condensation? Sure its not water ingress from driving rain around windows?

Go for large diameter, and slow RPM!

Yep, we have this issue in our mixer shower valves. On first use all were cold at maximum temperature, because they're all designed for a hot supply several degrees warmer. I adjusted them on, a crappy fiddly job, and at best could get them 'quite hot' but not much more. This also means at full cold they're still mildly warm. I do need to have another fiddle. Annoying as we paid a bloody fortunate for them. Our digital aqualisa works fine.