Andeh

Can you build it out and render so the render sits proud of the cladding? It would need to curve down & out, but would look 'clean' from ground level. Flashing, lead etc could look a bodge IMO. Just the colour contrast.

I like the idea of it, and wish I'd put a floor drain in the utility for emergancy purposes, but in your bathroom there it won't actually achieve much, 99% of the time you'll never have enough water to flow in it.

Black silicone inside it and smooth it over? Then it just looks like a consistent black channel /divider?

It was a cheapish bathroom due to funding issues, so I don't need it to last forever, just a few more years. Hence checking the wisdom here if there is a better way to stiffen it all up before I fix the crack/magic man back in

Some before and after pics from my weekend job just gone..... Just in case it helps show what you're looking for!

Hadn't considered insurance, however.... having endured 3 years of construction I'd prefer to fix, fill/touch up and forget and see where we are the next time I decide to plonk myself on the edge of the bath. Edit: Despite my best efforts I can't seem to make the crack any bigger, so I don't think it's terminal just yet!

We have a 1 inch crack on the outer lip of our bath. It's been fine for nearly 12 months, but I had my first deep and very hot bath a few days ago..... and fat git here obviously cracked it slowly getting in and out. Wife & kids no issues. Having sat on the lip & faffed around in the bath, there is slight flex around this area, but it isnt bath removal bad by a long shot. I have braced it underneath with wood & gorilla glue to expand into any small gaps the wood isnt firm up under the bath. Just to prevent any middle-bath flex. However, for the critical lip... due to the uneven nature of the fibreglass/rounded lip nature i'm not convinced gorilla glue will expand enough. I am going to put a couple of lengths of wood under the lip, then some legs down to the floor (per mock up attached). However to fill/rigid bind the wood to the fibreglass, i'm struggling to think the right glue to expand into the gaps, yet set rigid to stop the minor flex experienced. Any suggestions? Thanks

I wonder if you could retank the whole area, then lay new tiles over the top? If low traffic, structurally sound... I see no reason why it wouldnt work.

Unlikely I must admit, any pictures of the location? What's above the location?

Considered ringing tony holt, explain the problem statement and see if they would offer suggestions? For the sack of £500 or whatever design review they could offe? , if you really like their ideas... See what they would suggest based on the problem areas? If all else fails, could you install wall mounted stuff over the problem areas... Hanging baskets, CCTV, down pipes, outside clock, Canopy etc etc. We have some areas where the render isn't great, so will be planting taller plants in those areas as best we can. Alternative/easiest would be wood panelling as cheap and easy way to install over the top.

I wouldn't trust that builder to lay my patio, I can only presume it's some old boy semi retired and dabbling around depending on his retirement funding. Casual links to b&q on his website? Customer testimonial written for himself, by himself. Half the images being Google grabs? ..... Yikes!

I'd be tempted to drop the ceiling below where the wlqks are, and see if you can spot the water. That might identify if it is the rain, upstand, grout etc to give yourself a starting point!

Could you tank it all, as if you were building a basement? DPC up the walls and stuff? though IANAL

Wait for them to go on holiday, nip on the roof... Extend pipe. Job done.

We are looking at a decent shed base, 3m x 4m for a sit in mower and associated garden stuff. We have an area set aside for it, the first quote for a base was £1100, about 1.5cubic required. 50mm compacted MOT etc. This seemed a helluva more then I expected. As I start getting quotes, midlands based, any estimates on feasibility of DIY? Getting a load dropped and I barrow it myself of equivalent? Welcome feedback on what others did!

On my bucket list to do one day!!! Even better a steam room, but they seem more involved.

Eeeerm, it's incedental storage for children's bed! 😁

Most people are with trades, and sadly it's an expensive education everyone will have gone through at some point. Buildhub.org is a great resource to check and seek advice... Just pitty those that don't have this resource to guide them on their builds!! (though you could say ignorance is bliss.....). "trust, but verify"

Yeah, they were finalising a bolt on part or something to enable flush fitting last year when we had ours installed, but couldn't afford the delay to wait and see. With the channels the doors sit in, you naturally step over it all and 20mm, isn't noticable unless looking at it. For us it also acts as a final 'fail safe' for water flooding/pooling risks in driving wind. If your panel is fixed could you not tile tight to it, and have flush tiles, then a thin bead of black silicone round it all to hide minor gaps?

Issue we created was having our sliders able to slide both ways meaning outer sunflex panel forced us to sit the tiles down 20mm due to the lip the door created, meaning not truly flush, was annoying but again... Soon forgotten!

We had exactly the same with our sunflex, blue brick step out. Pic below is what we did. Set back a blade drain, enabling tiles either side of it. Not as surgically attractive as it could have been, but soon Iver looked....

We have, in theory, got it in writing from our BC for the below. Incidental use I think they've called it, so storage only, and us arguing the mini staircase is safer then a ladder/paddle stairs for accessing, which they agreed with. Lots of photos and designs shared with BC, and emails confirming OK, awaiting final inspections in next few weeks. We did need fire alarms top and bottom though.

OP, I'm in the same boat. 4kw design made up of 21 individual panels from around 2012. We removed and refitted like for like over our build, and could more then double our output just replacing old for new. However our FIT is worth about 60p/kw so worth around £2000 a year, and I'm too scared to risk loosing it for the extra 4-5kw our roof could take.

I don't see any issues there OP. during that 1% extreme rainfall, everything is going to be wet with water everywhere anyway.....