Andeh

Be mindful of fill/flow rates! A lot of bath/shower mixers restrict the flow. We over sized 15mm hot and cold feeds everywhere, only to then forget to check the shower/bath filler. It's fine, if you're patient!

Pretty sure that will wash off, and eventually blend in!

From my layman's opinion....I'd prob opt for 80mm PIR, 20mm tongue & groove chipboard glued & floated on top of PIR.....then I'd prob use doubled up rubber mats to absorb the blow of dropped weights. I imagine that'd make the whole room really bounce if you are not careful!

Our MVHR on boost is louder then our twin fan Samsung ASHP. The ASHP at 2-3m is about as loud as my old had boulder at 2-3ft. Maybe as loud as a modern car idling?

Apunsa like you've got a good builder, fair play to you both trying to resolve. As for why he didn't spot it.... Damp bricks in a pallet would change the colour strongly.... They could have just put the colour variation down to dampness.

Are you sure it isn't just different drying times for different edges/gaps? All those stains seems suspiciously close to the edges!

We had to have one protrude out to support an overhang, and I just wrapped it tight in insulation, expanding foam, etc etc outside. Inside we then just insulated it as best we could behind the plasterboard. With enough expanding foam you can fix anything! 😁 Do the best you can, accept a compromise, and move on! Double up on something else you can access to soften the tiny tiny tiny bit of loss in thermal performance. Worse things have happened, and 90% of home owners wouldn't know what a cold bridge is... Let alone give a shit.

Watching with interest for an outdoor patio cover project is like to do one day!

That will work fine, just try to avoid any pooling of water underneath it. Guttering and downpipes that eject water away will mean the shed probably out lasts you. We recently moved a shed that had been sat on a concrete slab for well over a decade, other then some green growth on the shaded side, it dismantled fine and has been setup again somewhere else on paving slabs. Repaint it all and it'd look new. If you really want to go to the extreme, paint the bottom of all the timbers in bitumen paint before you put them on the concrete.

Seeing as render doesn't absorb water, any stain would surely eventually wash off? Just a game of patience to let it all leach out the wood, then wash awahm

The other question, is what have you all done for the drainage? Do you just let it drain into the slab below?

Still tidying up to do in site....

I wrapped the whole length of ours with quality duct tape on a dry day. Added a few layers for good measure. Only takes 20mins and seals it up tight. Year later still looks fine. Might wrap it in another layer if it looks ropey one day.

We got caught out by this for our guest/family bath shower. The digital aqualiser one in our master works fine. Still have guests complain they can't get it above 'warm'. Think they are Paul Roche or Roche something or other ones. They weren't cheap either!!!

Can you build it out and render so the render sits proud of the cladding? It would need to curve down & out, but would look 'clean' from ground level. Flashing, lead etc could look a bodge IMO. Just the colour contrast.

I like the idea of it, and wish I'd put a floor drain in the utility for emergancy purposes, but in your bathroom there it won't actually achieve much, 99% of the time you'll never have enough water to flow in it.

Black silicone inside it and smooth it over? Then it just looks like a consistent black channel /divider?

It was a cheapish bathroom due to funding issues, so I don't need it to last forever, just a few more years. Hence checking the wisdom here if there is a better way to stiffen it all up before I fix the crack/magic man back in

Some before and after pics from my weekend job just gone..... Just in case it helps show what you're looking for!

Hadn't considered insurance, however.... having endured 3 years of construction I'd prefer to fix, fill/touch up and forget and see where we are the next time I decide to plonk myself on the edge of the bath. Edit: Despite my best efforts I can't seem to make the crack any bigger, so I don't think it's terminal just yet!

We have a 1 inch crack on the outer lip of our bath. It's been fine for nearly 12 months, but I had my first deep and very hot bath a few days ago..... and fat git here obviously cracked it slowly getting in and out. Wife & kids no issues. Having sat on the lip & faffed around in the bath, there is slight flex around this area, but it isnt bath removal bad by a long shot. I have braced it underneath with wood & gorilla glue to expand into any small gaps the wood isnt firm up under the bath. Just to prevent any middle-bath flex. However, for the critical lip... due to the uneven nature of the fibreglass/rounded lip nature i'm not convinced gorilla glue will expand enough. I am going to put a couple of lengths of wood under the lip, then some legs down to the floor (per mock up attached). However to fill/rigid bind the wood to the fibreglass, i'm struggling to think the right glue to expand into the gaps, yet set rigid to stop the minor flex experienced. Any suggestions? Thanks

I wonder if you could retank the whole area, then lay new tiles over the top? If low traffic, structurally sound... I see no reason why it wouldnt work.

Unlikely I must admit, any pictures of the location? What's above the location?

Considered ringing tony holt, explain the problem statement and see if they would offer suggestions? For the sack of £500 or whatever design review they could offe? , if you really like their ideas... See what they would suggest based on the problem areas? If all else fails, could you install wall mounted stuff over the problem areas... Hanging baskets, CCTV, down pipes, outside clock, Canopy etc etc. We have some areas where the render isn't great, so will be planting taller plants in those areas as best we can. Alternative/easiest would be wood panelling as cheap and easy way to install over the top.