Andeh

Insulate any hot run pipes, especially if hot water circulating!

Looks too shallow IMO. I'm not an expert though.

Poverty end of the spectrum here... 150mm full full, still a wonderfully warm home and at £150 a month incl daily washing machine and dish washer... What's not to like!!

Rent it whilst you carry out the work... Vacate it once finish! Tidy up as you go along..... 😁

Logic being most tile adhesive has a degree of flex, as does grout... As long as the substrate is solid with no movement, any minor minor crackage is likely to be absorbed, or will show in grout (so regrout) or worse worse case... Would pop a tile(!?).. Would it? The physics of a cemfloor type floor moving enough to damage tiles doesn't line up in my mind?

No, builder was utterly confident without it. Same with our en suites, albeit it a different tiler did our family bathroom and put it in. We had the cemfloor down for a good few months before tiling though.

I'd be angling it to join the plastic below rodding point. For the sake of an extra corner bend, easier and less risky imo. IANAL Though...

We have 45sqm of tiles on of Chem floor, used for 12 months.... Touch wood no issues.

Just to help OP, context is import. You're asking a forum biased at the highest of high end Insulated homes. Expections are therefore also biased. 150mm PIR is very good, 100mm was the norm several years ago, and even less a few years before that.... Once upon a time 0.30 was deemed fine! You would benefit strongly if you can get an extra inch or two of insulation, 50mm odd of PIR probably gets you into 'it'll work fine' territory, but you will need to accept you're loosing a couple quid a day worth of efficiency on a cold days...so maybe £100 - 200 a year worth of losses vs force fitting extra insulation? Buikding houses still all comes down to compromise! Have you considered cemfloor, or other thinner screed setups? To give you an extra inch or so? Can you loose an inch with a door threshold or shallow ramp?

We didn't, as I was away, and we have a noticable cold bridge there!

Definitely check it all the same! At least they won't be total cowboys,octopus are a good brand.

Has it always done this? RF signal can be funny at times. I had an IR extender (mammox pyramid IR extender or something) to enable me to change TV channel from a different room... Sky box split between two rooms via HDMI SPLITTER. turned out, when it was in it blocked my house mates vauxhall astra remote locking. Assumed the pyramid's IR was so much stronger it drowned out the remotes. I wonder if you have any stronger IR in the house blocking things?

We're probably around 3 as an annual COP (I'll check shortly). 51 degree DHW and two tanks a day on a bad day is always going to come with a hit!

Imagine if any other product took this approach, you can only have your car repaired at the garage you bought it off or else no warranty... Or boiler install.... Price gouging would be rampant. An approved supplier fitting a material they are approved to fit should maintain a warranty from the approving supplier. Buying a product that can only be worked on by a single, price gouging entity, would mean I look at other products. That's a material fact that should be up shared up front. Time to read through the small price, and then look to recover costs via money claim depending on what's said.

Have you looked into the warranty terms and conditions, to see what it actually stipulates? Or ask them to show you where? That does seem heavy handed.

Had an "issue" with our Samsung ASHP where I had set an 'on time' for hot water at 6am to hit a temperature with an hour duration assuming it would then turn off, but instead I then had to also set a manual 'off' time. Maybe there is something equiv with yours?

Can you post up pics please?

Interesting! What caused the dud UFH?

I doubt it, get the work done and meet in the middle.... And both walk away. Building house is hard enough, without added emotions seeking compensation for this complicated shitty occurrences. If he does try to charge for it, use the cost of scaffolding etc to cancel it out.

So sorry OP,you have my sympathies! Every building has these moments, and If you've made it this far..... You've done well! I wonder if they could simply trim the entire top 5 inches off all the way round the roof light, then wrap a single layer of zone round each one over the top of the rest below. Almost like a sweat band going all the way round? Hinge then a req through it per single zinc layer?

Yep, know the feeling... I was meticulous over the thermal envelope, went away for a week leaving clear instructions for when they installed 8m of sliding doors...they ignored them... Failed to call me and I returned to a massive cold bridge along the entire length, made worse by flush tiles that really conduct the heat. And don't even mention the absolute (expletive deleted)ing asshole lieing dishonest electrician we had to put up with. Lost several grand to his dishonesty. As long as you get it right 85% of the time, you're doing well! OP, can you post up some pics of what you are referring to?

Exactly right, that's how we have it. Then if you find during the coldest period mid january it isn't quite keeping up (does with us in January, as we have a 'good' Insulated and 'good' air tightness.... But not class leading) spralling bungalow, high ceilings and lots of glazing just add an hour or so into the night time tariffs, but even then we pay an average of something like 15p/kWh over the year, and we have an electric hob we use during peak tariff periods due to children and diner time falling into it. We also keep our DHW around 52 degrees a day and go through a solid tank a day, so have it heated morning and afternoon. Edit, we have it so the DHW comes on 5.30-6.30am and 2.30 to 3.30pm)...ie mid cheap period so there is already warmth in the pipes dissipating into the floor when the system swaps over... But not at the end of the cycle where the temp in ASHP is 52degrees vs 35 degrees for UFH... Just my engineering OCD wanting to eek out every degree where I can.

A pressure washer will strip that paint away very quickly (move it to within 6 inches) , just be careful as if you catch your render you risk blasting that off! I'd then just use black masonry paint applied when it's all very dry. All looks to be aesthetics only.

Just FYI though, it's a thin paint so it will show up any imperfections!

Sign up to octopus cosy as a tariff (I can PM a referral for mutual credit for us both if you're interested?) it gives you three super cheap rates spread over the day for people with an ASHP. Then have your ASHP, via the controller timed so that it hits a default temperature you like during those cheap slots (21 degs etc), and leave it as that. We have our DHW via 300L rank timed to come on for an hour morning cheap slot and again afternoon cheap slot... All works very well, and very reasonably priced.