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dpmiller

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Everything posted by dpmiller

  1. SBR in this case isn't a brand, it stands for "Small Batch Reactor".
  2. All of the above, yes, kinda. Variable limits actually... I think Carel and whoever wrote the GUI show a bit more of the inner workings of these than some of the more mainstream consumer brands tbh and I'm pretty nosey The control system is modular with an internal ModBus between portions- Inverter, fan drive, analogue ins, EV stepper motors. The inverter and mainboard both have stored profiles for the compressor tying expected pressures vs power inputs etc, as an envelope that rest of the sensors and controls work within.
  3. don't you need to consider the Delta as well tho, both across the source (the ASHP's internal heat exchanger) and the "radiator", whether it be UFH or wall panel? The controller we're looking at here is smart enough to consider the compressor and gas combo's efficiency islands and will throttle back based on energy transfer- it'll slow the compressor down, speed the water pump up, adjust the superheat levels and fan speed to keep the gas pressures sensible.
  4. we used Corvum pre-split for our windows. Easy to use and sticks like sh*t to a blanket.
  5. ...photo please. The boiler's own stat is normally a dual-stat and there should be a knob beside the black cap. what is it set to?
  6. Show us a picture of the boiler.
  7. because it's set too high (is max 85?) and overshoot is hitting the limit stat (92 IIRC)
  8. turn the temp down, how hot do you need your hot water to be???
  9. if you had the super secret magic password, you could change the slope for DHW to disable WC for it... :cough: Prg- 9999- Fan configuration- last page (F18 I think) ?
  10. isn't there a temperature dial on the boiler beside the overtemp reset cap?
  11. Ok I've just delved into the hidden menu and can confirm that the DHW curve is minimal, running from 50 @ 0c ambient to 45 @ 30c ambient.
  12. Do you have v6.6 of the manual? It has a bit more info on the slopes.
  13. ... to explain a wee bit further, these units can be configured to control *either* on flow OR return temp depending on application, as well as having a tank thermistor. Control on flow seems to give a hard limit, whereas control on return gives a softer response with more of a DeltaT (suits me better) While the controller doesn't have any in-house temp sensing- relying on dry stat contacts- it does have the full gamut of weather compensation trickery as well as low noise (fan control) modes and configurable defrost, pump speed, etc etc. It also has an inbuilt 7-day programmer for flow temps.
  14. It's the Cool Energy with the Carel controller. Edit: presume it to do with how the inverter winds up and down to reduce overshoot but it's not explained in the book of words.
  15. Good Q. I haven't fiddled with those tbh, rather using the temp difference and stop temp difference (inverter overshoot) to allow the system to ramp down a bit more smoothly. In the installer menu the pump speed is configurable too, if you want to try altering the DeltaT outside that in U08- do you see the pump speed changing as the inverter throttles down?
  16. how do you know it's "locking out" and how are you re-setting it?
  17. might be worth sticking a ferrite or two on the link wire
  18. You'll need a chat with a SE about the truss mods. Btdt...
  19. that would involve clambering up ladders etc. Personally I'd be more worried about the amount of entrained water in the delivery. It's amazing how much you can bulk out kero with...
  20. given the flow rate splashback may well be an issue. I'd get a stick myself...
  21. as in a flow meter rather than a contents gauge? Both are possible, but how will the oilman connect his dispense head leak-free to a flow meter?
  22. did it escape BC inspection too then?
  23. is an "attached" garage not a separate space tho, like a lean-to? Was it converted to a "study" before or after completion?
  24. It's a hermetically-sealed compressor. Whilst the heater might indeed be inside the enclosure you might look on the underside of the black housing for a stick-on silicone pad heater with a couple of wires coming off it too.
  25. you'll need a good electrician then.
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