dpmiller

or just done it live and got a bit wet...

Any chance the handle is slightly bent and not closing completely before hitting the stop?

how does the door look like it's fitting into the frame as it closes- are any of the latchy bits rubbing anywhere?

is it leaking at the gland, or is it passing? Is your water hard?

looks like the original valves have 1/4 or 3/8 nuts on, so the nuts and olives will need removing regardless

so, what does seagull taste like anyway?

ignoring defrosts, with good control and a big coil (or PHE) the heat pump can act almost like a combi. But again, gotta define your flow requirements first...

I like the first one best, just shift the wall slightly to shrink the utility. And do something with the back hall- does it really not have an internal door? Inlaw's bungalow is very similar to this. Loft is floored and the stair opening trimmed out and just PB'd over

no, not at all. NI's water infrastructure might be crumbling, but us private plant owners get a free on-demand pumpout. https://www.niwater.com/need-our-help/arrange-septic-tank-emptying

too much hassle to do it the legal way I guess. Do you guys not get one free pump out each year from the water board?

and then do what with it exactly?

does it really need a fence even? Hedge out, bit of surfacing, done.

WMs generally have a bit of overhang on the rear of their "worktop", the actually chassis is a bit shallower...

yep. An hour of boost programmed into the immersion diverter means the ASHP can fill it's boots topping the slab up without pause.

A vote for TrojanCast here- we've a sizeable corner bath that is used mostly as an ultradeep shower tray, and it's very solid both at base and rim.

yep. one big bath towel...

you generally put two hoses into the plenum of one inlet/outlet if the duct run is long

defo sounds like refrigerant lines heading into the house...

is that T&E? I'd be replacing that...

maybe just buy one and then overclad the front to your preference? I dealt with C&S in Tullamore and they were very good, they make up their own panels with a shiplap style

same difference really

the perimeter of the cassette has a wrap of membrane pre-fitted before being craned in. It sits on the lower flap of membrane and then the upstairs wall panels sit on the upper. These flaps of membrane are then ready to be taped to the VCLs. Externally, the upper wall sheathing is draped down over it all and stapled to the lower sheath. In our case it was heavy gauge polythene, you can see it hanging down in this image. All the upstairs studs had a similar strip of poly over the top of them for the ceiling VCL to attach to.

to lap round the floor cassettes, at least that's how ours were done

looks like the door won't open much past 90deg so do you *really* need to move the hinge point?

If you're doing a lot of blasting, would a honking big diesel compressor (like a towable ex-council tarmac one) be worth considering?