dpmiller

Willis is a Belfast company... https://willis-heating.com/about/

worth pointing out that this side of the Irish Sea, the Willis heater attached to a vented cylinder achieves superb stratification and allows continuous flow at reasonable rates. Heck, in our last house prior to fitting an electric shower we happily showered using the Willis- turn it on for a couple of minutes to get convection going and cap the top of the tank, then you could draw hot continuously at the rates allowed by the small shower heads of the day

Monoblock into 270l store, input and DHW coils both corrugated high-recovery, 3m2 area. Reheats til the thermistor halfway down the tank hits 50 so flow (and the top of the tank) are about 5c higher. That allows a shower before recovery, recovery takes 30 mins or so, but the ASHP ramps up quick enough that flow can be sustained near indefinitely at reasonable flow rates. All heating flow passes through the TS as a buffer volume too, so the whole volume of water rarely drops below 40c during the heating season. PV diverter and woodstove assist in adding energy when possible also Can't be precise about COP as I don't have energy measurement, but the highest daily consumption I've ever seen for the ASHP in the depths of winter is just over 30kWh; our monthly electric bill for the whole house (240m2) all-in is about the same as the oil usage in our previous little bungalow as most of the heating is accomplished during the E7 period 🙂

yep, ASHP/TS works for us

might the strainer in the PRV be blocked?

monitor the flow temp to the tank during the DHW heatups. You'll likely find the ASHP is maxed out, and the top third of your tank will end up at those temps...

bog-standard scoop tilt downlight, with your choice of lamp?

presuming it's actually the correct cable?

yep, landscape trays here too, from PluginSolar some years back

no RCDs in that box... Suggest calling a spark in soonest.

there are special screws for joist hangers https://www.strongtie.co.uk/en-UK/product-lines/nails-and-screws/connector-screws

we went hemihydrate and anything that happened to land on it seemed to stick like sh*t to a blanket. We *have* primed it which makes them stick even better now...

flexible pearl-catcher grabber thingy?

POM is the type of plasic the part is made from, is it not?

not with the tile, but happy t confirm they're a well-respected manufaturer

and if you're going EPS, make it the graphite stuff, substantially better for minimal extra cost.

yep normal enough. If you've room to fit an EGO one in, they last a bit better in my experience?

does it need to be outside? could it be hid above a soffit?

You could probably do what's done with 3hp x2 tandem compressors, just put a short delay on one of the motors. It only takes a second for the first motor to come up to speed and reduce it's consumption to sane levels, then there's plenty of juice to kick the other one in. I doubt a second would put the screws too far out of balance...

at the very least, reducing/ chamfering that row of tile under the flashing is required.

you could always try tightening the bolts on the end flange a wee bit, likewise if there's a nut retaining the valve body. But I wouldn't try too hard, at £40...

is this mains or low voltage?

Different way of skinning the cat really. There are savings in electricity obviously and ours seems to do well without the various recirculation paths that the likes of the Conder have. I've yet to see any floating residue on the liquor, it's always a seething mass when aerated and settles quickly to clear water before discharge.

Kinda. With an SBR (small batch reactor) plant, the unit aerates/settles a number of times, before a longer settle and then a timed pumped outflow. With our Solido, there's about a foot of level difference between the normal pumped/ controlled level and the "safety overflow" level that the liquid ends up at during a pump or power failure

swimming pool heatpump maybe?