dpmiller

certainly with the older coolenergy units there is a selectable overshoot as well as the PID settings being accessible

@SteamyTea are you confusing impact drills and impact drivers?

Am I right in thinking the standing charges/ delivery costs are much higher in the US?

I had a makita-fit 6" chainsaw that came from the south american river shop and got a couple of years out of it till the brushes went catastrophically in the motor replaced it wth a similar one but BL this time and it was under £30 with two batteries, a slow charger, and a spare chain...

oddly enough, the crappiest item I have is a DeWalt circular saw- Binds up mid-cut if you so much as look at it the wrong way... conversely tho, my mate has all Parkside stuff. One of the best items he has is a cute looking wee 3.5" circular saw. Amazing thing, absolutely steams it's way through anything even at max depth of cut.

the fake stuff is great now- I've got both turquoise and yellow flavours

isn't this done with Hydro?

Can you pop another pump is series to help the flow in that loop? The internal pump on our IVT9 is a bit marginal so I've an external Wilo to support it. Either will *just* satisfy the flow switch so with the externl pump ticking over it allows the Carel to modulate the internal pump nicely

our pro digger guy was unfazed by the play in my TB125. I replaced the bucket pins and the banana links and pins which helped a lot and it still clanks around a bit but it's really not the end of the world on fitting new bushes- presuming they are press in ( the dipper end on mine is torch off/ weld on) then yes it's likely to be a bit more force than (say) a suspension bush in a car. Heat and liquid nitrogen might both be needed... then there's always the possibility of them being reamed or linebored afterwards

what has Ireland got to do with it?

if you can't get the old'uns out, how do you think you'll manage to get the new parts in... which bushes is it, and do you have new/ good pins too? Pins alone might help and anyway, a wee bit of play is a good learning experience I reckon

check the seals extremely carefully, that kind of peak hints at a small opening in my experience

and it's windy out there too...

Because @JohnMo says so. And if it works for him, nothing else will do?

"tread lightly on the earth"

I do a bit with Haier -80 lab freezers and they're very good indeed.

with a duff expansion vessel, even 80c could be enough to blow something.

Oddly enough my experience with safety valves- autoclave sterilisers as well as other pressure vessels and boilers- is that the insurance engineer absolutely *must* see them lifted at every statutory inspection and will often remove and pump test them as well to verify the opening pressure. It's not unusual to find a valve stuck badly enough that more than the chamber's safe test pressure is required to break it free which is more than a small worry. Yes occasionally one will weep after this, but replacement is the cost of doing business... I routinely lift the valve of any unit I'm working on to confirm it's *not* stuck...

Do safety/ multi groups not normally have a gauge on? If none is fitted might it be worth the OP getting a gauge and screwing it onto the PRV?

Lewis deck?

depends is it 16A real and continuous, or chinese...

Befab, Hamilton Contracts, Fees, as a first try

/board. A few years ago mind...

when we were ordering ours, white EPS was £11.57 for a 50mm, vs £13.70 for graphite

floating or sunk?