dpmiller

Defrost gets a whole section to itself within the engineer's menu. I found it was a bit aggressive for our location so have shortened the duration and extended the minimum time between defrosts. Plus the ambient sensor was a bit too close to the evaporator which didn't help...

Don't think I've seen this posted before- it's a more full and descriptive guide to the settings on the Carel https://sprsun.nl/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Function-description-of-DC-inverter-heat-pump.docx.pdf

They're a local supplier, but the kit will be Garador or the likes. Can't assist on pricing as it was included in the cost of the shed. The two guys were here for a couple of hours. There's not much to the install, you could happily do it yourself. A lot depends on the squareness of the opening tho...

The one in Nods photos is the same as ours, supplied for our shed by Garage Door Systems https://garagedoorsystems.co.uk/products/insulated-roller-doors/ foam filled slats, brush seals at the sides etc

All our PB was Siniat, and I *think* it came through MacBlair (can't remember 100%, it was supplied under our TF contract...)

Flexis are recommended regardless, but yes either a formed bend or a radiussed bend fitting instead of those elbows. Personally I'd try to minimise the number of those pressed fittings used where possible as their ID can be surprisingly small...

Don't go near CEF or any of the other big boys, seek out a small indy wholesaler- or just go to Screwfix...

sort that knot of restrictive elbows at the back of the outdoor unit and your issues will disappear, I reckon. No calculator needed.

you'll need to help us a wee bit here- pushfit and solvent are different sizes, but some compression fittings can span both, not really a "brand" thing. What exact sink trap do you have there?

the PWM connection is correctly made? It may not go into the mode if it's not seeing the signal...

I'll bet on "none" and an easy grand profit.

how could the insert come out if the nut was tight on the olive?

will you have a fascia to fit or will will the render be stepped over the top board?

what about foam lining the plenum? Trying some of the foam flow adjusters is worth a try tho- air can do some pretty wierd things in a tube and slightly increasing or decreasing the pressure might help...

the screenshot shows heating on, not DHW. regardless, if it's anything like the setup in the Carel, there are four places setpoint is stored- User Mask Timezone. Adding anything here overrides user mask Fan mode/ weather comp (default for DHW is 50 btw). Need to go into the engineers pages for that. and the App. In my experience the App displays the Usermask data *until* the unit is actually running?

what do the building regs for your region say?

yep, thinning, speed, and distance are all the variables here. Sandpaper rough implies the paint is drying before it hits the surface...

Bedding is only for supporting the pipe and the diagram reflects that. If the pipes are shallow then there's another section to read w/ concrete casing or slabs over the top for protection?

need a brushcutter, not a grass trimmer.

quite possibly just the stratification settling down in the tank, I'd say

are you reading the tank temperature off the controller, or off some other thermometer on the tank? Or the flow temp? Certainly on our iVT9 the flow exceeds tank setpoint so the top of the tank ends up quite a bit warmer than setpoint... Do you actually see the tank actively heating to 50c or does it soak up a bit after shutting down @45?

the bubbling and splashing are both louder than the pump. Remember the pump (which is quiet already tbh) is sitting on a foam pad inside a sealed housing, under a double-skinned manhole cover...

that's the point, we *don't* put the render against the window, we already have the upright DPC there as a barrier... edit: and remember also it's a check reveal so there's less exposed frame to work to

those fittings are nowhere near 28mm...

careful... Caravans need careful consideration re. earthing @ProDave?