Trw144

Useful to know - I've just finished submitting a request for a new connection to Western Power this evening and requested three phase if possible.

I m just looking at the Plx myself - did you get any further with your quotes?

So the pre-planning feedback has come back, and in the words of our planning consultant contains "nothing insurmountable whatsoever". We now need to firm up on the exact design and materials, taking into account the planning feedback received. Although I have been thinking about the construction method, we haven't wanted to invest too much thought on our wants until we had an idea the planners were in general agreement (the site already had planning but for a much smaller property in a completely different style). The biggest concern was the impact of the large glazed gable and light spill so need to consider how to mitigate this (non reflective glass, setting the glazing back with an overhang spring to mind, louvres), without destroying the reason for the glass - the great view. The other points were to consider how to mitigate traffic noise (although it's much further from the road than where we are now), and about using darker materials instead of white render" (which we wanted to anyway).

Have you factored in the likely need to change your heating system? ASHP needs to work on low temperatures to achieve a good COP, so either UFH or low temperature radiators.

A Klover inset you have yes?

Unfortunately subsidy driven markets also atttact a lot of people attracted to make quick buck who either don't understand the subject, or don't care to. Biomass works, but it's not the same as putting a gas/oil boiler in. Did you get to the bottom of your issue - looking back at the post it was looking like it might be undersized?

Biomass is no different to heat pumps - you need decent equipment and it has to be installed correctly. Fail on either of these two and you end up with a system that doesn't work.

I have but I'm impatient

I appreciate it has many variables, but has anyone have any info on costing ICF when using a contractor as opposed to DIY? Had a ball park price back from nudura and it seems it could be quite a potential saving vs timber frame.

Sorry, next question! What's the covering on the PIR?

What is item 13 on your terrace? - trying to work out where your insulation is to avoid condensation on the basement ceiling (which a friend of mine is currently suffering with)

Yes in my experience you would definitely want those timbers to brace it together rather than just be aesthetic/balustrading

Yes the tiling was probably the hardest job (not that I did it) as the tiles are so large they had to cut and align several holes for the treads in the same tile.

Once they are fixed to the glass, it braces up the entire structure so it feels really firm. Without the glass they would definitely feel a bit bouncy (using a wire system etc for the balustrade).

Finished view with the tread ends. Originally they were glued to the glass fixings, but I found they would rotate with the vibrations as you couldn't necessarily fix them tight enough. Instead I ended up pulling them off the fixing nuts and simply siliconing onto the glass separately.

No, I'm pretty certain they didn't request a copy (although the loads were calculated by the SE when doing the timber frame). Seems strange looking back at my thread 4 years ago, I have some extra pics which may help here...

We have installed cantilever stairs. In our case we had a steel frame and steps made by the timber frame company (as we needed some supporting steel work anyway), so I can't help with that bit. The treads were made as a wooden sleeve slid over the steels and glued in place. Glass then screwed into the end of the steel box section, followed by an end piece of wood to hide the fixings. I believe I posted pics on here at the time (4 years ago ish) but can probably find them again if there is anything you wanted to see

Looks like it's coming on! Do you have a detail drawing on your basement ceiling that is going to be a terrace - we have the same designed and interested to know how you have insulated it ?

@nod do you have a link to purchase K-tend crack repair - I noticed a small hairline crack last night which I would like to repair as it's next to my front door.

We have literally voted to make ourselves poorer

Makes sense - more coffee needed this morning. Still seems a pretty low amount of heat (a 10 x 10 two story house brings a similar figure) And it is And ?

That doesn't seem much - £20 a year extra heating costs (assuming 5p/kwh and 200m2).

Trying to work out some costings on my house. Is there a resource for this - I know SPONS is an option but at £150 I thought there might be an online alternative resource (even if it's less indepth).... I want to cost up a block and block build cost

Difficult isn't it - I cant help but feel £80k buys a lot of block work, (obviously still need to sort roofs - flat and a vaulted gable). Prices have jumped up it seems - not exactly apples and apples but I paid £45k for the frame in our current house 4 years ago (300m2), where as I'm now looking at £85k for 400m2.