markc

I’m guessing detergent .. looks too white for anything else

Inchworms are the larvae of geometer moths … 2.54cm worms doesn’t have the same ring to it.

You should use max. “Potential” voltage or open circuit voltage

I use Tapo plugs and you can control by app but also turn on/off using the button, nice bit is that if you manually over-ride, the next schedule cycle reverts back to auto control.

I would go simple heater (thermostat) and add any control for timer etc. far too much stuff now that requires an app to use it. i have just put two oil filled rads in my workshop but controlled with smart plugs for timing

A guy I used to work with was ok in metric as long as they were whole numbers in 100mm increments - everything else was an imperial add-on. 3500mm - 3.5m 3600mm - 3.6m 3612mm - 3.6m and 1/2 inch it made setting out conversations interesting to others.

Generally you don’t want any “pooling” points in ductwork, but if air is always moving then any condensation that does form should be quickly moved as it evaporates again.

Really depends on whether you need the drain, if it’s all redundant, seal it up. You don’t need to excavate anything if the end is in your house and it’s not used, just pour some concrete in. If you cannot get to the end that’s in your place, dig as close as you can, find the pipe and break it, then backfill the hole.

Keeping the post inside of the thermal envelope is the best option. A post inline with the outside looks great but presents you with a big thermal bridge.

Do you mean the glazing bars or the capping strips that retain the glass? Glass on outside keeps windows cleaner and easier to clean. In the past when glass panes were smaller, glass would go in from outside and finished / sealed with putty.

To keep cost down, Keep It Simple. If you want the brick facia, why not double skin blockwork and front / fascia using cladding although the design / render must be above 3m high so you will probably have to lose the step and thin down the roof / facia. definitely insulation under the slab and you might as well do walls while doing blockwork - or blown beads later on.

Builder will have asked fabricator for a quote so you could ask to see it, remember nothing wrong with builder adding his cut, probably 20% because it’s not a simply buy in and there would have been some messing about. assuming you get the quote (remember you cannot really ask for any discount etc now) send it over and I will take a look, peace of mind rather than anything else.

Excavation costs come down to access and muck-away, obvious proximity to water means constant pumping until concrete is water tight. But your “big” item here is the coffer dam to hold the canal away while you finish the approach and gate etc. CRT (canal river trust) can be a pain to work with on something like this. i would be erring towards the upper end of @Conor estimate

In an off grid system you take the neutral and earth back to the inverter terminals, no need for any earth spike etc. - this is similar to an inverter in a motor home or boat etc.

You could start by asking where all the rubbish has come from? They may say other jobs and we are lumping together to then get one grab wagon etc. (more efficient than lots of small skips). If so then you should have been consulted and you will expect a discount and/or the area made good at their cost.

Gutter on outside of the envelope and then cladding in front with access to downpipes if needed (removable cladding section etc). haven’t read rest of post/s so might be barking up the wrong tree

I have been in a few jobs where the piles under a pool were to hold it down, not up. Many of the boat shaped fibreglass pools have recommendations to build the earth around then rather than plant them in the ground.

Hi and welcome, a 4”” sewer won’t be from many or only one property so a move is not difficult at all. If it was a bigger one that would be a different matter altogether.

I am just installing a pretty big system using Victron inverters etc. from EnergyMonkey

I used garage doors online and bought a sectional insulated door from Teckentrup, had to fit myself but it’s a good door and garage doors online were really good.

Loads of places have high water tables and digging a hole results in a pond, but filling the hole prevents water from collecting so it’s not noticed. You would only need a drain if you had water coming into a basement etc. go ahead, fill the hole and lay the toppings.

That has to be more than a coincidence 🤔

Good used machines are hard to find, plant hire companies rarely get rid of good machines so you need to beware of track drives and slew bearings. Leaking/chaffed hoses are easily replaced and rams can be generally be re sealed at reasonable cost but engines, pumps and slew bearings are expensive to replace.

How about build the new bit slightly wider and then over board the existing to get everything plumb and flat

If you don’t want the external handle to work you take the bar out, but then how do you open the door from the outside?