markc

If you loose a couple of fingers do you start counting in base 8? ?

We do a lot of railway stuff and they don’t like stainless fixings. The platform furniture that is all polished stainless and fixed with bzp or even self colour threaded rods is madness and looks terrible.

Haha, reminds me of a job a good few years ago, stainless steel conservatory for lord and lady Sainsbury … bloody nightmare job, part of snagging was that it made a big noise and shook when you slammed the sliding door open! .. we put a couple of rubber blocks in so the door bounced back …still shook the frame (approx 4 tons of it).

Expanded PolyStyrene. Nothing special needed for upstands. A quick search on here will give a myriad of information regarding the various types of insulation available.

25mm insulation, might as well go for Eps and service lintels just use basic concrete ones or cast in situ while doing the founds

Hello and welcome, that looks like an awesome project.

And I thought I was accident prone, it’s usually the stupid unforeseen things that get you.

As above and yes the timber frame will settle a bit but it is going to do that over the next few years anyway hence the compressible strip around windows etc.

I would say they are BZP (zinc plated) decent drill, good clean hole and they will be fine

I love my makita battery stuff but I buy Yaber 5ah batteries and so far I can’t tell the difference.

Looks like a fairly standard top lip. These usually get fixed vertically after lining and levelling. and powder coat only will chip and peel off, I would have had it galv first.

Good morning and welcome. tight budgets are never easy and especially at the moment. loads of great advice on here. If you cannot find the answers by searching past posts, feel free to ask.

Small radius is ok, I wouldn’t use an elbow at the bottom of the stack to reduce hammer. As long as it’s a bend it will stay clear

If you are wanting to add or control anything else then you will need to pick up a neutral as well. the blues may be neutral, but not necessarily.

Technically they are both live. Turn switch off, 1 will be live, one dead. connect the permanent live to L and the other to O. leave the blues alone

Phewww . Much safer and less likely to put the fear of god into the eyes of Planners and BCO’s As the planning will be classed as one project then it’s unlikely you would get a split decision

What do you mean by compromises?

The foot stops the bend from rolling/sliding downwards. If properly supported and prevented from moving with concrete then no problem

In this instance I can’t see it making much difference, but reckon I would reinstate in its original location

Hi and welcome

It’s amazing how floppy steel stairs are until they are fully bolted up.

@pocster if the heads will not be visible then through anchors are easier but you have a nut visible like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fxa-throughbolts-m12-x-116mm-20-pack/48990

Yes, that anchor will work well and bolt head is neat

Or you could use masonry screws. They work well and have bolt head

If you want a bolt head then you are into sleeve anchors. place piece, drill hole same diameter as the sleeve, puff dust out, back bolt out as far as is practice, insert into hole and tighten. https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fsa-sleeve-anchors-silver-12-x-81mm-m10-20-pack/68793