Carrerahill

I'd just run a cable to the container on a piece of decent cable suitable for the job, i.e. external grade, etc. etc. and take that into a garage consumer unit in the container, stick a single 6A and a 16A breaker in that, 6A out to your lights and 16A out to your sockets. I'd probably treat the container as a caravan, and therefore earth it with a rod. Having said all of that, I actually wouldn't in practise do any of that, but that is me - I'd run a good quality cable 16A extension cable into my container permanently, and have either a twin 13A socket on the end, or a 16A socket and have a 16A socket to 4 way, and flex my light. Depends how temporary all this will be and who will be using it. My new garage is still fed off a 13A extension cable from my old garage.

Edit on my above post (2 up), it looks like you could drop the active parts from that valve by removing the collar under the temp adjustment without the need to remove anything from the system. Not only that, if you did need a new one, I would be tempted to leave the existing body and replace only the inner workings to save some faff.

Of course it could, simply put yes, but it is basically an automatic valve which varies the flow from return or hot to create the ideal temp. If it was to completely isolate the hot intake side, which in the event that there was no demand and the manifolds were hot, it would just cycle the local water until demand dropped circuit temp.

This is obviously not the correct one, however, a bit of searching and you may find the right part: https://www.showerdoc.com/grohe-avensys-wax-thermostat-element-00798000 Another failure more could be a rubber diaphragm type seal, however, normally these work on very reliable plunger type affairs and a small leak past isn't an issue.

I think I would be taking the valve out, stripping and inspecting it. It will operate with a waxstat capsule, the whole thing really is very very simple. I'd probably jam it on no blend, remove parts to disable it or similar, refit and if the system heats up you have your fix. Only run system like this temporarily but it proves your fault. Water in a pan over the hob test for me if you suspect, and it almost certainly will be, the waxstat.

Can you post a less close up version of the window opening with the slipped section of wall.

The issue with professional services giving you advice is that they believe, rightly or wrongly that they become wholly liable, however if you called S. Jones Builders round and he suggested a leak at the soffit or a window or a waste pipe, you would probably nod you head and proceed on the ground that this may be indeed a water ingress route, you may even ask them to proceed with repairing this or at least a semi-invasive investigation to prove the cause of the smell and then to quote for such works. If Mr. Jones was totally wrong, albeit fixed a genuine issue, perhaps you would not be best pleased but you would admit defeat and move on, you only have Mr. Jones word and he probably said, "It might not be...", really, he is not liable. However, if it was the pro, and £3k in you discover the leak was not correctly diagnosed, sadly, many people immediately start waving a piece of paper in front of the pro's nose demanding satisfaction. Which is why when I write reports pertaining usually to electrical issues: controls, switchgear, lighting etc. and very very rarely I may even give a report on things like poor workmanship in other trades such as roofing and plumbing where I can use the British Standards, building handbook, other regs and manufacturers instruction including my own professional knowledge learnt from reviewing details and being on building sites to write a fully corroborated report, I will always put the important conclusive statement at the end of the report. This explains that due to the nature of a building or lack of access or limited ability to tear down a wall to view something, there is always a chance that this is indeed "not the cause", "non-related", "not the result of" - and other such words and phrases. I've given written reports on some high stakes arbitration cases and I am not scared to do so. If I am confident in the topic and have enough information then I will proceed, but it must be understood by all parties that a report can only be as good as the time invested in the investigation and the acceptable level of intrusion by the building owner or tenant etc. I am currently advising on a fault at a site in Edinburgh for a major financial organisation where the ceiling of their newly renovated offices, the reception in particular and corridors leading from the reception will need to be taken down to repair a mistake in some lighting. I've never been to site, I have never seen the issue personally but I have my contractor on site for about 5 hours investigating for me and getting details for me, I know what the problem is - if they take this whole ceiling down to make these repairs and I am wrong, people will not be pleased, but I do know. The difference here is that so far the bill runs to a days labour on site for a contractor to investigate, the whole repair will probably cost about £10-15k so frankly spending £300-400 to confirm the issue isn't that much really. So it is finding someone who is knowledgeable enough in their field to give some certainty to a diagnoses or invest the time looking that you want. Anything can be found if you look hard enough. Most pro's will only really look at your house as it stands, some will carry some basic small tools maybe an endoscope and have a good look but often nothing beats cutting out a section of plasterboard or pulling up some flooring and therein lies the big issue. If it is done purely on looking from within and outside the house then you are probably on a route to failure unless it is blinking obvious! So, the take away from this is probably invest a little in the investigation, be it money, time, or new plasterboard and paint and/or get in a pro, ideally one with no vested interest in the repair work which most pro's will not have and ask them if they will core through plasterboard to look or get under the house etc. etc. Building surveyors are a bit, jack of all master of none and although I am sure very good at their jobs, they would still often not have extensive knowledge in every discipline and would often need to call in another discipline to confirm X,Y or Z. The worst are the ones that work for banks and estate agents and seem unable to find trap doors or do even the most basic of investigations to ascertain if insulation has been installed etc.

Is your build the one with the big gazebo over it? If I am passing and see you I will pop in. A

You can get that exact "U" thing as I have seen it in my merchants, I would download the Osma and Marley and FloPlast catalogues and have a look. I had a look through an MK catalogue the other day and found all the bits I needed after being told "No, no one does anything like that".

If you have a plan ping it over and I will pass it on and get you a price - I'd say source the glazing locally if this did work out for you and just fit it up yourself.

We are working with the architect not BMW themselves. I have done quite a few BMW's over the years and largely the architect is given total design responsibility reporting to the BMW estates lot so I never need to deal with them although they are sometimes at the meetings, in fairness those guys are just building/construction/estates managers doing a construction industry job and always seem to be nice guys. I think all car sales involves slime! Probably why I keep my cars in top condition and keep them for a long time to avoid dealing with car sales!

It so happens I am working on a new build BMW showroom right now!!

I like the look of this one, however, my worry about this one would be the small fixing area, fine if you can stick two pieces of threaded rod with resin into a piece of concrete but that just looks like a recipe for disaster, with wind loading I could see that loading up those fixings significantly, the result is then damaged masonry etc. if it lets go. The one Jeremy designed spreads the load a bit down the wall and puts a decent potion of the load into compression on the bottom of the arm with the top fixings in tension giving the clamping force required to lock it into place.

Assuming you have a good substrate to fix to I do not see that being an issue.

Fabricator will want drawings unless they are imaginative. Where are you, one would go on a pallet no bother! If that looks to be helpful let me know. He could send down the metal all powedercoated or galvanised and then have a local glazier supply the toughened or he could ship the lot, we have had projects in London and it made it in one piece and we specified this guy as we felt he knew what we wanted doing and we knew his workmanship.

Our steel chap makes these as customs. We have been involved in the structural design of canopies for commercial properties and I did a lit one, see attached, this is one of ours, I even have photos of it during fabrication somewhere. This one had the impression of it going through the glass in a complete 360° section. Photo is just a grab from Street View.

I am not too keen on that, over your OSB you would have a membrane like Protect TF200 or Dupont Reflex and if you stuff PIR board of the same thickness as the depth of the cavity then you have removed the ventilation over the face of the membrane and this would as I see it create a perfect moisture trap at the OSB layer. We went for render, block, 50mm cavity, breather reflective membrane over 11mm OSB (I wouldn't use anything less than 11 for the cost of it - even 11mm is fairly flimsy), onto 6x2 studs, 100mm of QuinnTherm PIR in-between studs, then plaster and skim - we could have gone for the same makeup but a layer of QuinnTherm over the studs too but we didn't need it, we did however do that on the ceiling. We could have also use 125mm QuinnTherm but that would have reduced our service void too much and to be honest, as it stands the rooms take only the warmth of Henry the hoover running to take the chill of it!

It would not go through the lot to the soil no, it depends on makeup of your slab and all sorts but it could be encased in the concrete, the big house builders tend only to put the bare minimal in the slab like incoming utilities and drainage, then all the wiring and radiator pipes drops from the ceiling level, I don't like this way much but as an example it's what some do. There are so many ways to do this to be honest.

I'd not use poison either, with all the issues our planet has the last thing I want to do is dump poison onto it, but I get it, it's used, and I do sometime deploy it but very very rarely.

This exact point:

Scrape the site and dig out any roots, you don't need to go down deep. When we did ours with a 3' digger bucket I just ran the bucket about 2-3 inches into the ground and removed the whole top layer, most things it just nipped off from roots and left them and bigger things it tore out. The result was a fairly clean site with only minimal amount of holes where things needed a bit more effort - there wasn't really any digging - apart from the big hole, or should I call that "soak-away".

Grab a shovel, a mattock or pick and mark out 1m^2 and clear it down to a scraped clear piece of land. Take a middle of the road piece in terms of bit of old found, old bush etc. and clear it, see how long that takes and multiply by 289 that will give you an idea of time and indeed effort. If you have nothing else to do and want a work out then great, go for it, I'd get a skip though. You can get a Mattock for £20, a wheelbarrow would be good too, good gloves and plenty of other "weapons" to help you! That site will produce a pile of waste about the size of a small caravan.

Having now read this I think it's got to be a site scrape and skip - unless there is somewhere clearly out the of the way of the site you can "lose" the waste.

How big is the site (does the photo show the extent and even if so photos can be deceptive), how much time do you have and how much cash do you want to put into it? Also, what is the ground going to be used for? Where are you going to put the waste? You could do that in a easy day with a mini excavator and a skip to dump all the waste into or bury, or it could take you 3 weekends working flat out and you will still have land that has roots and stubs and residual vegetation. I went down the digger option and it still took me 3 days and a crew of 3-4 of us over the weekend and myself on the Monday and that was with a 1.5ton JCB! Yes I did dig founds and did other stuff but the general site clearance bit took much much longer than planned and I felt the £250 for the excavator to do all that in essentially a long weekend was worth every penny. It also saved us a fortune as I dug a huge hole and basically bulldozed the old garage brick into it, then put in all the vegetation scrapings then backfilled in layers while compacting with the excavator. No skip on site at all and a very well draining lawn now, which in 3 years has not subsided one bit. Obviously don't bury stuff where you may build and only bury garden waste or rock/brick/concrete and deep enough it should never upset anyone in the future.

Utility will install one at the point it comes off of their network and onto the private pipework so it will be there anyway. Utility wouldn't just stick a piece of pipe into their network and directly into his house or he would have no way of disconnecting network water from his pipework.