Carrerahill

No - it's a water pipe. Only need to worry if you are actually working on oil or gas lines or the appliances themselves. I could go and install a whole DHW/CH system right now and only have the gas man do the gas and the flue - in fact, I could lay in the pipes, solder them together but just not connect at the gas meter or the appliance - gas fitter does that and does the pressure test and at that can certify your work - many would not do this for obvious reasons but it is not illegal.

No - that sounds like madness - if the tile did rely on a FG coating beneath the tile then frankly the tile would not be fit for purpose at that pitch. 12.5 is an annoying pitch, it's there, one exists, but it's low enough that most tiles are not suitable. Make sure you do use a good quality membrane under them - that just means that if there is any really bad driving rain that makes it up under the head-lap it will be dealt with by the membrane, also make sure that you add a lifting fillet or use an eaves protector tray (total pain to fit gutter though so fit brackets first if you can) so that any water cannot pool in the low point formed where the roof meats the fascia. At least at 12.5 it will hardly exist but I always form roof edges to ensure water cannot pool - something I cannot say about all roofers. I would also increase the headlap slightly beyond spec.

I agree with this wholeheartedly with what @Declan52 said. I have been building little walls and structures fairly successfully for 20-25 years, and last year when we kicked off the building works with the garage I approached a brickie and got him to work - he worked FT for a firm so did it for me on weekends on his own (my whole build has been like this - he was good, very good so I was happy for it to take significantly longer) so the deal was I would labour for him. I told him just to order me about and I would get on with it. Most of the time my setup time only took an hour or so with a top up every couple of hours so not too bad. On day one I was clearly versed on how to best setup block and brick for the brickie and how to make a really nice mortar by the mixer load more or less by eye. Not rocket science but how he wanted the site setup made a lot of sense to a pro doing a large structure and meant he only had to move a foot or two to grab block and lay it. The mortar was also laid out on boards spread along the wall - I have always used a bucket or barrow and end up moving it along with me which actually just costs time and hassle. Then the actual brick/block laying, I watched him lay 1000's of blocks and when doing lintels and things I helped. I learnt so much just by watching, little tricks to lift a block up above your head and place it in square and level by basically balancing an edge on your thumbnail and holding the other end with your hand - daft things like that. About a week after he left I needed to build a small wall maybe 5 blocks high, I kid you not, I was so impressed with my work I didn't want to have it dry dashed and was sad to see it all covered up. It was the straightest, most level block work I have ever done and I can attribute the vast improvement to watching and learning on the job and that was only over about a 12 months period when he has been on and off our site. I would honestly happily build a garage now - the cost would be the time for me, it would take me much much longer. Imagine what you could learn doing it constantly.

It depends on the quality - filament style LED arrays are more for GLS replacement LED lamps - almost all of these have a crude LED driver, or simply a current limiting circuit with no rectification and often fail before the LED's. None of these products would be suited to a workshop anyway - no one would really choose a GU10 or B22d or E(S)27 fitting for a garage or workshop although I am sure in domestic applications an old light will be re-purposed - in which case bite the bullet and run an incandescent lamp in it. Proper LED products of good quality and indeed a proper product designed with an LED board in mind (not a retro-fit situation which are dire) often utilise a propriety LED board such as the Tridonic Talex boards and a matched Tridonic driver the output will be DC therefore there will be no flicker obviously. If you go down to a local wholesaler, Ed's, CEF etc. and ask for a LED fitting, the chances are you will end up with a fairly cheap (maybe not in terms of what you pay mind you!) LED fitting, still with a whisp of sea air on them, which have recently come in from the far east. They will have a crude on board driver or a very very crude little driver usually potted with no information on them. Commercial life - often as short as 8 months - domestic garage not being used often - potentially 20 years. Here is an example of decent quality (yet not the best) LED lighting suitable for workshops and warehouses and are fitted up and down the length of the country: https://www.whitecroftlighting.com/products/indoor/industrial/ - note their ACL Industry - that is an example of a non-corrosive. I have these in my garage, 8000 & 10,000 lumen versions: https://www.zumtobel.com/gb-en/products/amphibia.html?&GUID=55A35931-A196-4728-9559-BE773F1B00C3#AMPHIBIA PC Wide Beam - they would run to about £245.00 each from a wholesaler - however these were left over from a mock-up of a plant room for an NHS trust approval session. Issue is the most basic product from the likes of Whitecroft in this range is probably £150.00 - however, that is small change to a school or warehouse etc. who need a product to go in and run 12-24hours a day for 10 years while burning 30w.

No, it's a type of luminaire often used in plant areas, damp/dusty or potentially impact zones, tunnels, shed, garages, warehouses and sites. It's good on sites where dust and mechanical impact may be an issue - was more of an issue when we used T12/8/5 lamps but the luminaire style is still very common. Made entirely of non-corrosive materials, often all plastics - sometimes metal with paint finishes but not common. The 180° diffuser also helps with ligt distribution and on good model incorporates a micro-prismatic or Fresnel optic to aid in light distribution while reducing glariness such as is found on opal diffuser models.

Depends how many rooms you need to light. Luckily I have access to lots of lighting samples that we get given for approval on projects etc. by manufacturers. I like linear LED products, the stuff I use is more designed for offices and commercial spaces so it is quite decorative but a 2m long LED product with 6000 lumens works fine regardless of the pretty package it is in! I also use non-corrosive LED battens. You can pick them up cheaply enough, at the end of the build install them in a garage or shed or something, or if you end up with loads tell people on here about them and they may sell for someone else in the same situation. Just wire them up to a temp lighting supply or if you have power just use plugs on them.

Air then!

It is to stop entanglement of those escaping or fighting fire. Cat 5 could sure hold you back if it was caught around your oxygen cylinder!

Indeed, and to be honest tray is way OTT in many commercial applications to be honest, the number of times we see tray spec'ed and indeed installed for a single piece of SWA to be fixed to it. You cannot even claim it is for expansion as most of the times the situation has no clear scope for future expansion. I was involved in VEing a project back in my early days for a major project, saved them 1.2million by sizing the cable tray correctly.

Not the OP - his architect, that is what I am saying, we would, as in my firm, if there was a breach of copyright or use (there is even a disclaimer on our title-blocks). I am not suggesting the OP would do it to his neighbour but I would have the architect act with a tip off, it also would not get that far - rarely does - however, it was not clear how they were being used by the OP and it sounded like he was submitting them to use for his own benefit. In fact the whole post is somewhat confusing now as there is now a comment that it was the planning authority (by submitting them to the authority the have rights to use them - limited, but rights) that was using them so really I don't understand what is going on.

Seems about right to me. A couple of points - I would bring the 32mm right in, the less joints the better, this also presumably lets you keep the 32mm pipe connection in an accessible place, ideally you would fit all the gubbins as it enters, in the correct order, NRV, stop-cock, drain off things like that, however, and I will be criticised for this, your old setup is probably just a pipe in, stop-cock then off to the rest. If so you could just replicate that as it works just now, your private water supply is just that, private. So, unless your involved in any work that building control are looking at and this is in that space then no one will ever give you grief. You will then need to cap off the old incoming section of the water pipe and the system will then just work in reverse from the utility. For disinfecting the pipes... if it was capped, above ground and no ground water has go into it I would just hook it up and run off the water for 15 minutes near the stop-cock i.e. in the utility, so that water is not being dragged through your whole system. Or I would stick a cup of bleach into the pipe, water it up and let it sit, then run off again.

That depends on the agreement, contract etc. it is entirely possible the OP owns his drawings. Bearing in mind it is very common that multiple practises and disciplines may take a project from concept to completion it is common for rights to be bought or be part of the scope of works. We use other peoples drawings and indeed allow others to use our drawings all the time, totally legitimately, it's just a question of £'s. A typical NOS project we would have the following terms in our contract - obviously we only deploy these sort of terms where the project involvement would deem this to be acceptable: "At any agreed point of cessation or completion of services, as outlined in the scope of works documentation and agreed project contract documentation, where no monies are owed, the right of the information or data may be released to the client. Terms of use are outlined in section 34.5.6 of the standard data release T&C's. Basically within those T&C's we say that they cannot use the drawings against us in any arbitration etc. etc. etc. and that the drawings cannot be edited and then issued under our original titleblocks etc. etc. etc.

What is he using your drawings for? Surely they show everything for your build with your address, location plan etc? Your architect and or you own these drawings. I would sue him if someone used our firms drawings without prior written authorisation - realistically I would only need to have our legal dept. send the threat and that would shut it down but we would go the full way if pushed.

Where does your soil stack vent? Does it come out via a vent tile in the roof or even just a 1-2' section of pipe sticking up?

Lead every time. I had never used rolled lead in my life until earlier this year. To be honest, there are a lot of good instructional videos on YouTube and if you have a good knack for making things and working with your hands you should be grand. The trick is also to work in about 4-5' lengths max, for several reasons, however, the most important being expansion and contraction, big long pieces of lead will crack or split. Long pieces are also difficult to work with and are heavy to work into place and get up onto the roof! I actually found lead nice stuff to work with, I enjoyed it's malleability and it's compliance to be worked into some odd shapes. I scored it with a sharp Stanley knife and used tin-snips to cut it. I used pieces of 2x8 and 2x4 as formers and a piece of 1.5x1.5 and a foot long as a sort of press. Keeping the lead indoors and warm before working it will help no end or outside in the sun (too late in the year now). I dressed our lead down over the profile of the roof tile on warm days and you could almost do it with your fingers although I found that the shaft of a hammer was good to gently tap it down (lead beater was too big) the result is a row of nice little dressed down sections tight to the tile. I used diesel as patination oil.

Now what was complicated about: Generally an isolator is for the isolation of an electrical circuit which is already open - i.e. they ought not to be used to kill loads or connect loads, they also should have a greater distance between the contacts to ensure isolation. Switches are designed to switch loads on and off.

The logic is that connected plant will probably be serviced in situ and still all hooked up - a fridge or freezer or microwave won't. A cooker and hob can go on a spur (unless it's greater than 13A supply then most of the cooker switches are actually double pole switches.

On the contrary, I have never seen a new chain straight out the box as sharp as a good condition hand sharpened chain or fully dressed up brand new chain. Much like chisels only come ready for the final sharpening, almost no chisel comes ready for use from the factory, a brand new chain needs brought up to final full sharpness. Sure you can use them out the box, like a chisel, but they are not actually ready yet. I get chain from a tree surgeon who buys it on 100' rolls, the chain is good, sharp enough you can cut your fingers on it if you are not careful but after a quick dressing up it is lethal!

I don't quite get your point point - it's not going to be sharp all the time, like any chain it will just return to near as new cutting condition, until it is too worn, when it is sharpened. Given the aggressiveness of the sharpening procedure I suspect you will remove more material with every sharpening than a typical round file in the link gullet and 1-5 sharpening tip dressing. To be fair, I suspect they are good for the home user who lacks the skills to do it properly, no professional would ever use one. This is a bit like many of the total gimmick tools sold to DIYers that you would never see a pro with.

Only issue is you need to run the special chain which appear to be double the price of a good Stihl, Husqvarna, Oregon, Carlton chain. I'd rather have 2 chains and just keep them sharp. If every time you pickup your saw to work you run a file through the teeth you will keep it good and it won't take much work to remove the dullness - on bigger jobs just swap chains halfway through or when it gets dull. To be honest I have run chainsaws for decades and always just got on fine with a set of files.

Generally an isolator is for the isolation of an electrical circuit which is already open - i.e. they ought not to be used to kill loads or connect loads, they also should have a greater distance between the contacts to ensure isolation. Switches are designed to switch loads on and off. A fused spur often will only switch the live, much like an MCB doesn't actually fully isolate a circuit, whereas an isolator will isolate both poles - it sort of depends what you are wiring up. An isolator would be fitted to something that you would want to work on while still installed - plant should really be isolated - a fridge can go on a spur as your really not going to be working on the internals while it is still connected. So on a DB or the main cable-head the isolator disconnects down the whole system. Examples of where I would spec isolation: HVAC units. Compressors (i.e. permanently installed units). Pump systems. Example of where I would spec a spur: Fridge Heater Alarm panel However, as always there is always crossover.

Our new soil stack goes up to roof level of the single storey section of the house, then takes a 90° at the last branch (where a pan connects) then goes about 400mm horizontal (or 92.5°) then through a wall, then 90° and up the side of the house. So I am going to say yes.

The spec is x mm away from an opening, window or vent.

They are all internal now - usually a boxed in pipe runs through the kitchen. They have a vent at roof level.

I'd go to B&Q or a power tool merchant and have a look and feel - I hate to say this, but even if you don't buy from them. I was going to buy a Samsung Microwave combination oven grill thing, looked good, got good reviews, large capacity, so I looked about and was about to order it when I thought to myself, no I need to go and feel and touch these. So I took myself to Currys and found the model I was looking at, it did look nice, well built, controls a little fussy but the handle, dear me, it was like a piece of plastic they would use to seal a steak in! It was so flimsy and felt cheap and the whole handle assembly made a creaking plastic noise when you pulled it. That was the end of the line for that model for me! I ended up buying a Kenwood machine with a slightly higher spec, it was sat there in front of me in a box so I took it - very pleased with the purchase and it works really well with good functionality. I think you can see my point here! My friend has a £400 Festool, he thinks it is brilliant, I don't like it, it is a bit heavy, the casing is a bit fussy, it's too big and just annoys me - I have no doubt that it is a brilliantly engineered drill and does everything and more - but I always feel happier using my Bosch machine - I like my Bosch so much that I bought a set of new batteries and had a new motor fitted (F.O.C by Bosch as I knew the rep) so as far as I am concerned it is as good as new!