Carrerahill

Probably not.

Quite a few ways of doing this. I think I would initially dry fit it all and make sure the wall plate and shower arm have equal lengths of the bush threaded into them. I'd mark that then bond the bush into the wall plate so that it is sealed and solid, then I would offer up the shower arm to the bush with PTFE, at least if that side leaks it will be visible and drip into the shower. As I say, so many ways, you could also just PTFE it into both sides, or Hawk White jointing compound or basically glue it in with water and temp proof epoxy or Locktite.

I built my garage on a slope, the garage is shown as 2.3m to eaves, but at the back it is probably about 3.3m due to the slope. I knew this would be the case and said to the planning officer when she was out, that although it is shown as 2.3 you can see that it will be taller at the back, she just said just build it as 2.3 to the front door and the other sizes will be what they will be. I also told her that my extension heights would alter as I was going to change the ground levels with landscaping, she didn't seem to care.

So basically one neighbour, who has probably been there for a while and knows a decent number of people has an issue with your proposed, so they have tried to rally the troops to try and cause you some issues, in their minds they hope that they can stop it, this shows their naivety as this is often not the case. I get it, if you live in a street with cottages from the 1800's and suddenly someone builds a copper and timber clad box it might not "fit in", but then, assuming the proposed is a nice copper and timber box then why not, it is 2021. It could be worse, a housing developer could build a boring, soulless, identical to every other house cheap production house. You are probably going to build something decent looking. Could be other issues too though. I have an issue with messy selfish builders who take over the road and pavement for a year and leave spilt plaster and sand and concrete and have rubbish blowing about the place. So people can get upset when a build is going on near them.

This is how I did the walls in my living room. Offset studs and acoustic rockwool.

Ballachulish was the best slate in the world, the Welsh stuff came in second best... I'll get my coat.

Looks like a local "Tarmac Crew" did that. They clearly didn't follow the compaction 101 guide! If it was me I would hire a skip, dig that tarmac out and put in a gravel and hard paving solution and reintroduce some life about that area. I hate tarmac car bays like this.

Yes - so the negatives are all linked, then link the Sync between the modules which will pull them into sync and then run out your positives. You can actually just use the positives from one of the sensors to run all the drivers assuming you do not go over the limit of the sensor. The sensor might be limited to for example 10 ECG's (electronic control gears) because each connected gear acts like a load on the sensors signal transmitter, is might only be 20mA and if each device pulls about 1-2mA it can soon stop working. So you have your two Hytronik sensors, they generate the 1-10V signal, what does their signal actually control? Where do the 48V lamps come in to play? You can get DIN rail 1-10V mains dimmer modules usually called analogue AC interface modules, not as easily as you once could as 1-10V is not that common in lighting control anymore with DALI having taken over. There used to be one called the RAKO RAK4 but it was a 4 channel thing and about £500.00 There are lots of 1-10V low voltage and LED interfaces certainly but mains can be found too. Another option might be to use a Casambi CBU-ASD which is a wireless 1-10V and DALI interface module which you could use as your signal generator on a PIR trigger?

Eutrac is about the best, distributed by SLV and is sometimes just called SLV track, used domestically and commercial, galleries and retail etc. I have 2.8m in black you can have if you want it.

Hytronik instructions are awful, they are usually quite misleading, however, to answer your question, look closely at the diagram, it is not showing them connected directly. You cannot have the two 1-10V control outputs on the same bus, they would fight against each other and I suspect damage each other. Essentially 1-10V lighting control is just that, a 1-10V "signal" - so to all intents and purposes what you have is a controlled 1-10V power supply - so putting them both on the same bus would cause them to probably fail - you must only use the "SYNC" link between the two and you link the negative side, but don't just wire the 1-10V in parallel.

Quite the contrary, it is now more common because it is easier to achieve through 2 stage drivers. Most communal areas of shared housing, student halls, etc. use what is called Corridor Function, lighting sits at a setback level of about 20%, this is for compliance with CIBSE LG09 as it states 20lux through the night, but must ramp up to 100lux min if someone enters the space, the same is often used in stairwells too.

This is a common function of lighting used commercially, usually you have a master unit which has the sensor then slave units that just take the signal from the master. The way they work is they use a driver with 2 inputs, give it 1 live, it outputs enough current to drive the fitting at 20% - give it the second live the driver ramps up to 100%. So what I sometimes do is specify the slave units on their own, and create 2 switched lives, 1 live is driven via a photocell, so it gets dark and the fittings all come on at 20% - then wire in PIR's or Microwave sensors to switch the second live, so on detection of movement, the driver gets its second lie and ramps up to 100% - I also sometimes spec this so that the 20% is permanent and the 100% live is via a photocell for night only. Frankly you can do any combination. I've also had the first live on a photocell and manual switching for 100% so that 100% mode is only used when manually called for. There is also the option to use dimmable drivers with a controller or sensor that controls the fitting but that makes the whole thing more expensive and more complicated than it ought to be. The fittings I usually spec have Tridonic main drivers and a version of the Hytronik sensor you have got there. As an example, this fitting will do exactly what you want out of the box and can be linked to others - I have used a master of these to control about 10 slaves around the perimeter of a golf club. https://asdlighting.com/products/clarity-portrait-cage/

If it was me, I'd probably go for a recessed IP rated LED profile (strip of aluminium channel) ideally set into a rebate in the floor. I use a nice potted strip for things like this, 24VDC so safe for this use, remote 24V PSU. 3000K no more than 750-800Lm per meter for ambient uplight.

Often the land registry drawings are not accurate and they know what, I was in the RoS office in Glasgow a few years back (I was there on non-related business) talking to some of the staff and pointed out an issue I'd been having when trying to line up actual boundaries of my site with RoS drawings and he said that the issue is most of them were surveyed such a long time ago, done fairly roughly and obviously on paper, so when this all got transposed to the IT system the issue were mainly to do with scales and drawing accuracy, some came in correctly but most not. So sometimes the drawing they imported came in with a scale, so they could regenerate it digitally, but often it was all over the place so nothing quite lined up. The net result is inaccurate drawings which will probably never be accurate unless it is new parcels of land with defined existing markers digitally on the plans. What amazed me is that it is these drawing they use for conveyancing - if I was to plot out my boundary as per the drawings in the land registry I could move one of my boundary fences about 5m into my neighbours! When I initially pegged out our building area I couldn't work out what was going on, although having been in this industry for a long time on the design side I had never personally built myself, so that was a learning curve which has improved they way I work to allow for this sort of stuff.

I love this. I love breaking down myths and nonsense created by marketing groups, the poorly informed etc. which then sadly sticks. A bit like Covid. We have some neighbours whos Covid thought process on what they need to do to stay safe is comical. Anyway, I have only read your OP Jeremy (need to get working) so anything said after your post, forgive me if it has been said, but would it be better in fact to try and use the existing term thermal store? Thermal mass did sound sort of acceptable as long as you don't dive into it, a bit like on the face of it "socially distanced" sounds about right, however, analyse both of them and they are a misnomer. If I was to very quickly give 1 reason why thermal mass sounds wrong I'd immediately say the use of the word mass is simply incorrect here, water, as you mention above, has one of the highest specific heat capacities, therefore a smaller volume of water, by a factor of over 4, would actually give the same "thermal mass" as concrete therefore somewhat muddying the waters regarding "mass". I think it is probably safe to say that a big slab of concrete sitting at 20° could be deemed a thermal store? But, yes, thermal mass just isn't quite accurate. On the socially distanced point that I think is wrong - I think it should be physically distanced. I am being social with all of you right now - we can be sociable without being in the same city or even country!

Yeah realistically speaking yes, but I was just saying - buy the 4m - solved. But yes, it would maybe more likely be 6 or 8 or even 10 if she could. Not sure why an architect let her move the building location, boggy or not, planning might be upset too!

Unlikely but there is a chance. Friends neighbour accidentally built into an area of woodland which belonged to an adjacent farm - the woods were cleared and the house built, it was reasonable that the farmer would not have seen this due to the area of his farm, long story short, the house had to be partially demolished - certainly the neighbour didn't handle it very well and the farmer just served him with a court order to leave his land and reinstate it as it was!

Well, what is the farmer saying? Was it that farmer that gifted the land to you? In either case, talk to them, buy the 4m - it is about all you can do.

You are never going to get someone on the payroll to do this 100% by the book through. 3 days to hand over, major problem - boss leans on him to let it pass this time. Inspector gets on good terms with some of the labourers, Friday afternoon shot, he and his pals all want to knock off early and he passes a stage just to be one of the lads!

See all that dampness at the lower lintel coming out through the mortar? Makes me think this wall leaks like a sieve and a lot of water is running down the inside, hitting the cavity tray and seeping through the mortar on the lintel...

Is water coming in above the window, i.e. nothing to do with the window itself? Not sure of the build type/situation but is there an issue with the cavity tray above the window?

I think big house builders, or any major construction site should have a building officer, (paid for by the council which would be in turn paid for by the greedy house builders, I know sadly that then means buyers pay but it will be worth it) more or less seconded to site, to reduce possibilities of them being bought off, a government level inspector should also be present going around sites and checking things all look good. Anything more than say 4 houses or a commercial site should have this level of supervision and checking for quality, mortar samples pulled, insulation inspection, quality of workmanship etc. etc. Whoever thought the big house builders could be trusted was just beyond daft. If you consider some of the pay-outs and remedial work costs this would actually work out cheaper for the main contractor!

I'd want a meeting on site with the planner. I'd also have as much of the barn lying around as I could, I'd also have photographic evidence of any parts that went away for refurb. If you can prove it is going to go back up as it stood, just cleaner and with new bits and strengthened etc. I don't see an issue frankly. I think you will appeal it, the issue is the council have been fed wrong information. Nice neighbour!

Yes - that's what I'd do, I think that looks smart, gives it a little more interest as well.

BW = Building Warrant - i.e. what your inspector wants you to build from. You need someone who can CAD this up for you then. Plenty of engineers and architectural techs and CAD techs do this sort of stuff from their bedroom at night for a few extra £100's in their pocket.