JohnMo

The Singaporean dictatorship would be way better. Or simply bring a law "for the greater good" which works very well in Singapore.

But are any of them really a neon light. Led cost nothing - pennies per hundred, so why would a manufacturer use a neon light

I was was 57 when I started, lost 2 stone building the house. Every morning was hard work at the start. But I paid for an assistant, I collected them every morning to go to site. That makes you get up every day early (not Saturday or Sunday) and do a full days graft. After a while you get fit again and your body gets used to it.

City Plumbing (ASHP, cylinder), Cool Energy (everything), Cylinders2go (cylinders). Ideal cylinders are rebranded Gledhill. But way cheaper. Panasonic heat pumps appear good. Makes sure ASHP does cooling out the box.

Do your own heat loss calculation. 14kW is just rubbish and generally not needed unless your house is massive, leaks air and heat like a seize. No need to waste that money on a pre plumbed cylinder, 300L cylinder £3k, should really only be spending £1500 or less.

Is it true? No links to source material, could be a random number generator - instead of a wind generator. But small money in economics terms. Sounds huge, but its not really.

There are generally 4 operating modes for a circulation pump. On with the compressor, off when compressor stops. Pre start and after run timers to add to the above. So pump will run for say 60 secs prior to compressor starting and 4 or 5 mins after it stops. On all the time Intermittent (sniffer mode) periodic starts after a defined time, runs for a defined time, repeat. If compressor starts the cycling starts again once the compressor stops.

A neighbour of ours had the same issue, the whole lot was skipped in the end and new one built. Further they got into it the more rot they exposed. You also need to find the route cause of the rot, so it doesn't occur again.

You really need the insulation for heat conservation. Why do you need glycol or anti freeze valves. Glycol kills circulation pump performance and needs a slight high flow temp. Antifreeze valves just spill water, need a very long power cut and super low temperature, for them to save anything.

You guys need to shop about more https://coolenergyshop.com/products/1-500mm-flexi-hose-individual?_pos=5&_psq=fle&_ss=e&_v=1.0

Unlikely to be that high, our actually and design at -9 is just over 3kW for 192m² living area plus another 20m² within the heated envelope not actually heated. We aren't passivhaus by a big margin, due to form factor being atrocious (in passivhaus terms). So I believe your figure, wouldn't believe UFH supplier. Do not go for the Mitsubishi 8.5kW, if you insist on going that big, get the Mitsubishi 8kW. It has two refrigerator compressors, a 6kW inverter driven and a 2kW fixed speed unit. So has very good modulation. We have a 6kW ASHP but it's massive for our house, as it doesn't modulate well. Zero issue experienced doing DHW. But at -10 it still kicks out nearly 6kW.

A slight alarm bell, the way you said 5kW was as if the ASHP installing was way bigger - new build with MVHR, so airtight well insulated, what size unit are you installing - would have expected 5kW even if your house is 300m².

Not really that big an issue. Mine is a fair way from the house, behind a couple of sheds. Don't see any issues even when it's well below freezing. Micro climate effect of the heat pump and MVHR. Damp laden air being ejected from the house should be ejected out far enough that it's mixed pretty well with normal air especially if there is any wind. So wouldn't worry unduly, just keep the extract air as high up as possible to allow the most mixing. Think that's a good way to encourage defrosts to occur sooner and more often than needed, humid air from house though ASHP condenser.

No idea, but makes you wonder about sealing the cavity around the window as well, have confirmed they are doing that? If the don't you will have a thermal bridge, leading to additional heat loss and damp walls in those areas. What does your architect drawings show?

Even then with CoP of at least 3, but more like 3.5+, you still use 50% more electricity running a heat battery than UVC.

The ideally for me, airtight low expansion foam in void between window frame and wall. External depends on external finish - you need to explain this? Inside insulation on the internal wall return butt up to window frame. Then some method of airtightness - tape etc.

You obviously have solar and an ASHP, does it make sense to faff about diverting electric at a CoP of 1, when you can export and heat cylinder at CoP of 3 to 5 depending on setup and outside temperature. Wasting export income and giving the local grid very green energy?

Monobloc has the plate heat exchanger between refrigeration gas and water in the outside unit, a split unit has the heat exchanger in the house

Only answer question they ask and only answer what the don't ask. Don't ramble on with this, that, or the other that isn't explicit in the question. Example of saying things not explicit asked for - reading this I am assuming your house is scheduled to fall down in the future, you most certainly don't mean that. So you should state "Surveyor's report states, that my house isn't going to fall down." Or better still don't mention anything - never seen a question that asks, is your house going to fall down? My house is an ICF build. Many insurance companies take that is a novel build method, but stripped back it's a concrete wall with insulation. So wall material is concrete, the fact that it's insulated is a given (it has to be to comply with building regs). Surrounded by trees, understand what sort of tree they are, a beech tree has tap roots, so are unlikely to affect a house, no matter how close they are, other species can be very damaging. We have 30m tall trees within 20m distance from the house, but the question asked was within 5m, so answer was no. Your SIP build is likely to have a concrete block skin, the fact your insulation is sandwiched between OSB is neither here nor there, your walls are concrete blocks. Roofs are in the general states (natural material) or tiles (stuff like concrete. Most houses in UK are tiles, so nothing novel there.

Mine is also 400mm from walls at back and side and 500mm for the maintenance access side. So that looks like it needs fixing The other thing I would change is the MVHR in out arrangements, would installed a combined flow in extract out grille and position as high up the wall as possible. Then both elements of the MVHR can have a good distance from the ASHP Grille such as this https://www.paulheatrecovery.co.uk/product/200mm-directional-external-combi-grille-for-mvhr-black/

22-09 electric chart would certainly indicate short cycling almost all day. So as you say trying to keep a small buffer happy isn't working. But everything I stated are the reason for the cycling. Mentioned above by @HughF was that the buffer has no control system or feedback. So firing the compressor based on return temperature most likely. Cosy tariff - Would certainly look to dump the buffer in the short to medium term, convert to volumiser on the return side, remove secondary side pump(s). This can be done with or without buffer - either run pure WC (so call for heat 24/7) or a time based running in Cosy periods with WC flow temperature (maybe slightly elevated to compensate for some off periods). Set thermostat so you have no call for heat during really expensive period. Then set thermostat to 23 in cheap periods and a more tolerant temp in normal rate periods, say 19.5. This would encourage most running in cheap periods, coast in normal rate off in expensive rates, but internal temps could swing about if on radiators, less so on UFH. Ideally if you can run a second setpoint that would be better than a thermostat set point. I have (but don't currently use) a second set point setup, this add 5 degs to normal WC curve, so this would allow running elevated temps in cheap periods and normal WC at all other times. Net result is runs hard during cheap periods, pretty much off for several hours. Observation - the intermittent running to keep buffer happy is possibly costing as much as it would to run WC 24/7, as to run intermittently via time control, you have to run a higher flow temperature. Plus running WC allows you generally have a cooler house and still be comfortable. So current operating strategy is costing you not saving you money.

Short cycling occurs when the heat source cannot get the heat away quick enough, or there is little or no demand, or flow rate is too low, or all three conditions. As the heat source goes through a start cycle the target temperature is exceeded by enough margin to cause the heat source to shut down, this repeats. To eliminate it, you can raise the target flow temp, add a couple degrees to the existing target temp. Then fine tune down. Or increase the system volume or flow rate. If you have the parameter available you can increase/decrease the PI integral time. This changes the reaction time of the controller. The way your system is setup can actually cause short cycling. If I run heat pump, so the circulation pump runs periodically, the temperature of the water close to the heat pump cools quicker than that inside the house, so heat pump thinks it needs to start up, but in reality it doesn't, heat pump starts, the warm water from house hits the heat pump it shutdown. This is fixed by running the heat pumping it's default mode of circulation when there is a demand for heat. The heat pump control then knows exactly when to restart - no short cycling.

Just keep installing them buffers and thermostats, if you want. But alternatives exist. I will sign out now.

Not exactly true if you run an open single zone system as no heat.is wasted. But you do need the pipes that go to the cylinder insulated. With an ASHP that normally needs a buffer to get acceptable flow and cycle times, but also leads to less than ideal CoP due to flow temperature distortion, unless the buffer is huge and the flow through primary and secondary is perfectly matched, which it will not be.

Didn't you ask about this back in June as well? You just need something like this https://www.bes.co.uk/primary-pro-ashp-insulation-28-x-19mm-x-1m-26208/