JohnMo

Not quite a few decimal places out it's 81,000 kWh. So if you if you pay have the cost to charge as normal rate 14p.v 28p you save around around £11k in electric less in the installed cost of battery and inverter. Just reading the current blurb on GivEnergy All In One (AIO) battery system, it is rated for an "unlimited" number of cycles within its 12-year warranty period, guaranteeing it will retain at least 70% of its original capacity. So on Cosy (3x charges per day) that could be a saving of around £20k less install cost. Install cost is higher but reward is higher again.

Why - you are laying for the system to be installed so it will come with MCS certificate, which means you get paid for export, so why not sell the electric. DHW heating is fine if you don't get paid for export. Gas or heat pump DHW heating is around 6p per kWh, export around 15p on the correct tariff. I would look at a system that doesn't demand internet connection - GivEnergy does require internet, others no idea.

Why - I'm over 60 and was taught metric at school, it's been taught in school since about 1965! Only time since leaving I used imperial was working with equipment designed in 1940s. And ordering wood in imperial cross section (which it isn't actually that size - 147mm is actually 5.79" not 6") and metric length - but building industry is backwards in its thinking anyway, so cannot expect much different really.

Your boiler is a weather compensation boiler, so why not use it as one? Does your system follow the rules in the manual Note. Systems incorporating zone valves which could completely cut off the flow through the system must also include a bypass. The boiler does not normally need a bypass but at least some radiators on the heating circuit, of load of at least 10% of the minimum boiler output, must be provided with twin lockshield valves so that this minimum heating load is always available. Balancing 1. Set the programmer to ON. Close the manual or thermostatic valves on all radiators, leaving the twin lockshield valves (on the radiators referred to above) in the OPEN position. Turn up the room thermostat and adjust the lockshield valve to give an uninterrupted flow through the radiator.These valves should now be left as set. 2. Open all manual or thermostatic radiator valves and adjust the lockshield valves on the remaining radiators, to give around 20oC temperature drop at each radiator. 3. Adjust the room thermostat and programmer to NORMAL settings.

Well done you.

You may have an issue with the UFH manifold return leg collecting air? You will need a method to bleed the lower manifold and the piping run going to it. Also the return line you need an expansion vessel and safety group, something like this, after the filter isolation valves https://www.unventedcomponentseurope.com/expansion-vessel-25-litre-heating-fixing-t-bar-system-kit.html/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=Copy Unvented Components Europe&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=879559&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17178278874&gbraid=0AAAAADCTOYDo74Yo9HePQuEMKnbFqfg6s&gclid=CjwKCAiA86_JBhAIEiwA4i9JuybXCf4Z5_Ln7s1jNmeqsPnHSW3goCc-0aIt_EChTwzn0-N3iEqenxoC5xkQAvD_BwE

Can't you get a filter in the vertical on the return after the tee? Then you only need one filter/strainer. I would redo the tee before you go through the wall, to make space. Rotate tee horizontal, add filter, then loop up and out off wall or something like that. Your pipe is huge so no issue with pressure drops feeding 3 loops

Yep. You certainly have nothing to complain about if you don't vote, you are obviously happy with everything, anyone throws at you.

So basically all the gaps you see need to be filled. I would look to use a good expanding foam. Some of the vertical filler pieces of PIR, don't look to butt up against the OSB roof cover. All PIR needs to be hard up against that.

It's is actually buried in here

There was a thread on this the other day

Are you sure, you should have CO for carbon monoxide - not CO2 for carbon dioxide. We breath out CO2, cars, boilers and gas hobs put out CO.

Been there done that - used solar predictions to match charge with expected solar generation. Worked sometimes the days it didn't made the whole exercise a waste of time. Have data only in home assistant where it doesn't matter. Now just charge to fixed points 365 days easy no thought, and excess PV gets exported anyway. You really don't want anything that demands internet access to retain functionality. I would also look at Sunsynk.

Your system will have either a valve like this, this is to prevent pump dead heading Or you will have a radiator always open - bathroom or hall?

Think we may need a sketch

I would have it inside. I removed mine, pressure drop was huge. Installed a proper full flow filter. You can alway install something on each leg as it splits.

The return water is at floor temperature, as the system runs longer the return temp increases. Hot Water In | [ Mixing Valve ] ---> Mixed Flow to UFH | Cool Return from UFH So makes sense

No h you need good stable running, 4 mins is pretty rubbish

I would engage a few radiators in the main living space. This will do a few things Give the boiler an open route for flow, provide a temperature dump for excess heat. Should result in longer run times. You may actually find your energy consumption stays the same, may even go down.

15 degs will feel cold. That is worrying already. It basically says the boiler cannot get rid of its heat quickly enough. As the system heats up it will most likely not worse, as every time boiler senses it's tripped on over temperature it starts a timer before firing up again. They are rubbish with copper pipe,if you paint or stick some white tape on it it will read better. A few loops have very little flow, with a mixer a small amount hot water is let in to the mixer and it's mixed with return water from the floor loops. The only water going down the return is return water from the floor equal to the hot water let in via the mixer. The rest of the flow back to the boiler will a min flow valve in your heating.

All a little late now, borehole went in in 2021, vat reclaim in 2023. Scotland so no CIL stuff to worry over.

I have some different ones (Deta) not listed yet, Scottish building regs compliant. Normal cost is £150 each. They do temp and CO2 instant readings and list CO2 average for last 8 and 24 hrs, plus peak over last 24 hrs. I have one new, still in box, and one used - £70 and £30 each. Can post, PM if interested. They look like this

Was compliant with that. Was done as we put up the walls Was compliant with that, new build house Was compliant with that. No other water connected to house

Which bit, that I paid vat up front, or claimed it back?

I used an express can direct in to the normal filling loop. Adey MC1+ Rapide. Just remove the actuators and put back on the decorator caps. You unscrew them anti clockwise to remove.