JohnMo

Are you sure, you should have CO for carbon monoxide - not CO2 for carbon dioxide. We breath out CO2, cars, boilers and gas hobs put out CO.

Been there done that - used solar predictions to match charge with expected solar generation. Worked sometimes the days it didn't made the whole exercise a waste of time. Have data only in home assistant where it doesn't matter. Now just charge to fixed points 365 days easy no thought, and excess PV gets exported anyway. You really don't want anything that demands internet access to retain functionality. I would also look at Sunsynk.

Your system will have either a valve like this, this is to prevent pump dead heading Or you will have a radiator always open - bathroom or hall?

Think we may need a sketch

I would have it inside. I removed mine, pressure drop was huge. Installed a proper full flow filter. You can alway install something on each leg as it splits.

The return water is at floor temperature, as the system runs longer the return temp increases. Hot Water In | [ Mixing Valve ] ---> Mixed Flow to UFH | Cool Return from UFH So makes sense

No h you need good stable running, 4 mins is pretty rubbish

I would engage a few radiators in the main living space. This will do a few things Give the boiler an open route for flow, provide a temperature dump for excess heat. Should result in longer run times. You may actually find your energy consumption stays the same, may even go down.

15 degs will feel cold. That is worrying already. It basically says the boiler cannot get rid of its heat quickly enough. As the system heats up it will most likely not worse, as every time boiler senses it's tripped on over temperature it starts a timer before firing up again. They are rubbish with copper pipe,if you paint or stick some white tape on it it will read better. A few loops have very little flow, with a mixer a small amount hot water is let in to the mixer and it's mixed with return water from the floor loops. The only water going down the return is return water from the floor equal to the hot water let in via the mixer. The rest of the flow back to the boiler will a min flow valve in your heating.

All a little late now, borehole went in in 2021, vat reclaim in 2023. Scotland so no CIL stuff to worry over.

I have some different ones (Deta) not listed yet, Scottish building regs compliant. Normal cost is £150 each. They do temp and CO2 instant readings and list CO2 average for last 8 and 24 hrs, plus peak over last 24 hrs. I have one new, still in box, and one used - £70 and £30 each. Can post, PM if interested. They look like this

Was compliant with that. Was done as we put up the walls Was compliant with that, new build house Was compliant with that. No other water connected to house

Which bit, that I paid vat up front, or claimed it back?

I used an express can direct in to the normal filling loop. Adey MC1+ Rapide. Just remove the actuators and put back on the decorator caps. You unscrew them anti clockwise to remove.

Wrong thing all together. CO2 is what you need. There are a couple I'm selling on eBay. https://ebay.us/m/MC8XHB

We paid vat on our borehole and pump and filters to contractor. But included in our VAT submission, which I believe got paid.

I wouldn't - you need to insulate well - not an easy job. If you are running glycol they are useful (but why would you) if not they are not needed. Thought you were running an open system, if don't bother installing at all. The control valves push pin down to close off loop. The flow meter screw out to increase flow. No, your 3 port valve does that job for you.

I need to get into my "heating system - useless tatt" box and get some money back.

Exactly - so pay pensions that fair and out a burden on the younger of society. Think saying "are you net contributor to society" to get a vote is just nonsense. So anyone in adult education, doing a degree for example, excluded, training to be a doctor excluded, if your not earning day £40k your excluded etc I'll bow out now, this thread has turned to nonsense - more like Facebook and I'm not on that for good reason.

There was program on radio 4 that looked at pensions etc. it analysed our country and many others. The rounded outcome was, it really doesn't matter what you pay out as a pension, the younger in society pay the same taxes, as either direct tax, or indirect from their pay packet direct to the older family members. So you either allow the state to pay the older in society (collected when they pay taxes throughout their working life), or the younger of society start dipping their hand into their own pocket to support them. Possibly all have to have a granny annex to house them.

Gee this has become a diverted thread. But I think everyone should be allowed to vote, once classed as an adult, except prisoners (they lost the right be part of society). Getting the vote was a hard struggle, not that long ago only land owners got to vote, they were also the MPs and the house of lords Scroungers - they are just a token of the welfare state we live in. Change the rules, change the benefits and times they get them. There are plenty of things to do in this country, they should form work gangs, to get things fixed, to stay entitled to public money - litter picking, bringing in crops, etc. But suspect that's too difficult to manage, and we may hurt someone's feelings.

I came to similar conclusion with our summer house. It runs off the same heating system as the house (UFH). I dumped the UFH in the summer house in the end, and used a fan coil radiator instead. To me you need two different flow temps one for upstairs and a lower one for downstairs. To achieve this you need a mixer downstairs. Two ways to do this An electronic mixer and treat the system upstairs as you would radiators. Your ASHP should be able to control the mixer - you would need to double check. Or you add a mechanical mixer and pump to downstairs UFH and run a fixed flow temperature. Running WC upstairs should give a degree of temperature modulation. If you go this route go for an IVAR mixer set. Like this - the option with the BritTherm is a good option, I used that same pump for a couple of years no issue, nice quite and pulls low watts. https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/ivar-thermostatic-mixing-valve-pump-set-p-1073.html Or https://www.outsourcedenergy.co.uk/product/manifold-mixer-station-wpb/ You want the one that adjusts from 20 to 60

Is this a new install? If so, tell them the UFH not working and needs to be fixed.

To be quite frank, that's good. Lots of zone control can result in boiler running for very short cycles, bad for boiler life and has increased gas consumption. I would start a new thread asking how best to insulate the floor from below. Because you want to stop heat being leached away, but also make draft free.

Didn't at the time, all I knew was the heat loss of the house was supposed be x, but I was actually using twice that. From there it was a voyage of discovery and learning. Plumbers weren't interested, it just the way it is! I soon realised the boiler as in cycle on off mode continually.