JohnMo

Been thinking about how best to do this system I would do 3 zones - one for each manifold, so no actuators are needed on the manifold, retain you pumps and mixers, but control pump on manifold with the zone thermostat - no wiring centres are needed, but install if you have them (if you want). It may be way easier to install a buffer, but size to about 100L. This will keep boiler happy. Nibe (they do heat pumps) have good design buffers, there are a couple on eBay at the moment at decent prices. Buffers can be installed in various ways, I would recommend a 2 port setup. So a 2 port is just that, you use only 2 ports. One at top, one at bottom buffer. Each port has an oversized tee, so if using 22mm pipe do a 28mm tee at each port. This gives a hydraulic separation between heating and boiler. So you operate the two sides independently, the buffer you add a thermostat and the thermostat controls the boiler only. Set to about 15 degs above max UFH flow temp this allow UFH mixer to have some authority. Boiler has one job keep buffer happy. UFH just draws from buffer, but when boiler is on, will draw water direct from the boiler and flow and return will by-pass the buffer, as zones switch off, excess flow from boiler will pass through buffer. For DHW you have a 3 port diverter between buffer and boiler. Boiler flips to DHW, runs flat out to charge cylinder cylinder, buffer continues to feed the UFH. At end of DHW, boiler moves to charge buffer. You don't need zone valves if you don't want them. The other option is a fully open system, no buffer, no mixers and feed whole lot from a good boiler that does weather compensation. You may need to add additional pump to the system return. But you need to be prepared to fully balance system, adding zones will miss with a lot of settings and you would run full WC.

GivEnergy AIO. This is AC coupled and in a power cut just continues as if there hasn't been a power cut up to 6kW continuous and I think 7+kW transient. 13.4kW usable power, so really a 15-16kW when comparing. Use mine with Cosy. Morning slot charge to 100%, afternoon slot have set 3 charge slots to make most of any solar and night slot charge again to 100%. All done via GivEnergy app. You can either set your own slots to charge or it has full integration with Octopus, just add your API and the control does the rest. Charge rate is 6kW which is needed after heavy use for the night slot to charge to 100%. My max cost for electricity is Cosy cheapest slots all year round.

Each method works, but I did perimeter insulation at full depth of insulation and screed, my thoughts were less chance of a thermal bridge due to gaps. I used 70mm PIR which was the maximum use for my wall build-up instead of the normal blue stripes. You could add a thin layer of sand or use thin eps insulation as a sacrificial layer below the DPM.

A normal heat exchanger the air and moisture simply cannot mix, they are two flow paths, the heat exchanger is just a heat exchanger. Enthalpy heat exchanger are different but should only allow humidity cross over between the two streams. So would suspect an internal leak within the unit

Can you not drill down through several layers of bricks and resin bond studs in place and then bolt the wall plates down or something similar - subject to calculating uplift loads.

Are you sure you haven't got a leak? If you aren't drawing water off, you won't get condensation forming normally. So overnight it should be perfectly dry. If wet you have a leak at one of the joints or at the valve stem. Most days it should remain dry all the time .

So reading the above - have you selected the DC water pump on? Assume when they are referring to an inverter DC pump it's really a PWM pump they are talking about.

I really wouldn't bother doing that, once setup it will tell you nothing. MVHR needs no apps, if it does it selling you rubbish you don't need. Its switched on inspect filters, hoover out if needed every six months, change filter once a year. Air quality sensors only really needed to see if you can reduce flow 6 months after commissioning. Solar and inverter monitoring is useful. Been down the route of predictive charging battery based on forecast, tried several variants and all are pretty rubbish.

Yes, flow rates are higher

Heating loads are so low in a new build and modulation of oil boiler not the best, lots of short cycling is very likely without a volume of water to work with. Or you can do thick screed and simply batch charge the floor, but you need a boiler that will happily put out about 35 degs for a few hours at a time to make it work efficiently. A minimum output of 15kW doesn't really make this option realistic. As said I have been and done it with hybrid - just isn't worth the hassle doing hybrid on a new build. It's bad enough managing a heat pump that doesn't modulate the best, an oil boiler could be an utter pain. Just looked at the Warmflow range of oil boilers and minimum output of the entire range looks to be 15kW. When a typical 200m² new build house will need no more than about 5 to 6kW maybe less, built to minimum building regs, the boiler is huge. A well built house will be 3kW or lower heat demand, so boiler could be 5x oversized.

Still doesn't make it easy for anyone else to sort an issue. Unless you have ups any power glitch switches the server off and unless switched back on again stays off. Fill your boots with automated stuff Above was your question - home automation doesn't make anything future proof or easy for anyone other than the person installing

A normal loft needs a draft to stop the roof structure getting damp and rotting. The roof structure should be left well alone. He needs to ensure the eaves are left open to provide this air flow. To insulate use normal loft roll ideally insulated to a thickness of about 300 to 400mm in alternating layers. If he needs a floor above the insulation B&Q etc sell brackets that extend through the insulation so as not to compress it. Bubble wrap isn't going to do much - ok in the green house, but that's about it.

I had a gas boiler and installed a heat pump for cooling. Had 2 years of data from gas only, then ran a year on ASHP only then configured to run hybrid for a year. Concluded after running for a while heating season and doing all the costs I was way cheaper and simpler to run pure weather compensation from ASHP. The complexity of having two heat sources isn't worth the time and money. Stick to oil or do the environment a favour and just go ASHP don't bother mixing the two. A new build just doesn't need it. Spend the money on a battery and run cheapest rate electric 365 days a year with monobloc ASHP. To.mske an oil boiler work in a new build you need a thermal store - charging a thermal store via an ASHP costs too much in CoP impact. KISS keep it simple....

What about thin film flexible panels, they come self adhesive backed. Would (select the correct size) fit between the seams. You can get them about 5m long - downside is price.

Sorry it's all rubbish, any glitch in internet the whole lot goes off. Reliant of constant fiddling and the whim of the service provider. Fool proof - too much specific learning needed, to be ever fool proof. SWMBO is right to question. Future proof, is a simple light switch that doesn't need an app to function or a program to run or internet that can be switched or fall over at a moments notice. Amazon fell over the day causing many multi national institutions internet/web services to stop. I had several HA devises and programs on my heating system - all utterly unreliable, all removed. None added price of mine, none added simplicity, none added any really needed functionality or saved my any money just wasted time and money), and none made anything future proof or idiot proof.

Two sorts of fan coils for ASHP a wall mounted unit, that heat and cool, something like this - one needed per room Or a multi room unit. Which you would duct to rooms similar to MVHR, but everything is sized to suit heating and cooling Install depends but no more complicated than a radiator. To heat pump you determine heat loss, how you deliver heat has little bearing on size of heat pump. I wouldn't size for cooling only heating, which is more dominant duty.

Aircon does both heat and cool What exactly do you mean by heat coils? Do you have an example of what they quoted?

I don't have a pre heater at all - I just rely on the inbuilt settings "During very cold weather, the Frost Protection Program will detect temperatures that could cause ice to form inside the unit. It will reduce or stop the supply ventilation rate, thus allowing the warmer stale air to raise the temperature within the unit cell to such a level that prevents the formation of ice. As temperatures rise the Frost Protection Program will increase the supply ventilation flow rate back to the commissioned settings." Have noticed as it gets colder outside, inside humidity drops, so don't see any negatives using the in built first protection.

Stick Aircon in - in the house that is, not the airflow. Leave ventilation to do ventilation. Or if ASHP just install fan coils in the upstairs rooms for heat and cool.

A slightly more advanced photo with more of the battens in place, you will insect mesh as well to wasps out etc.

I used a wide DPC Not the best photo, but should give you the idea

Is the menu saying you have external thermostat(s), if so are there calling for heat?

Basically as they are direct electric the efficiency will be exactly the same heating water. Storage losses may be smaller with a single bigger cylinder if the surface area in the combined cylinder is smaller. But if you already have 2 the cost pay back from improving efficiency, to pay for a 3rd bigger unit, would several life times.

Heating at passive house flow rates is limited to about 10W per m² of floor area. So heating is possible to fully heat a passivhaus or knock the cold off a more normal house. I would just do a single heat bank water coil upstream of the manifold. Then add something like this for £500 https://bpcventilation.com/products/cold-water-duct-cooler-range?variant=53736023261510&country=GB&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22309731029&gbraid=0AAAAADpzxaVuRiJvI1F3wJ3DAy6JrgNmt&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmYzIBhC6ARIsAHA3IkR7VeYyluH-E6sPvQvoP7NgX-nTx-8L6YP-l9OAvZNbuLjgrusSh0QaAtYIEALw_wcB This has the capability to cool and heat as it has condensation drains etc. But this is all you need to heat, depending on dT between coil and air for kW output. To cool you would need an oversized MVHR unit and in cooling mode it would be wired to run full speed. Still won't be great cooling due to UK humidity.

You to look at the exact flow rates and temperature required to get that output. Just checked the datasheet and outputs when you compute them are based on 45 to 55% humidity outside air - not sure we get that very often in the UK? Plus you need a massive flow rate. So science hasn't changed just the prices of equipment - Titon unit is only £8k