JohnMo

When you replaced your oil boiler for ASHP, did the contractor also do anything to your radiators, or are they same as we're installed with the oil boiler. It could be the radiators are slightly under sized to meet the warm up time you are expecting, as the circulation temperature will be lower with ASHP. The easy fix is to operate you heating in a similar manner to UFH, that is long operating periods and water low temperatures. The house will loose a set amount of kW on a given day - normal central heating throws big chunks of heat at the radiators for short periods, ASHP, give smaller chunks of heat for longer periods, the kW given to the house and lost by the house is the same in both cases.

Ordered our kitchen, back in June, it was installed about six weeks ago, the AEG fridge freezer hadn't arrived and no reported delivery date, however was offered an Electrolux, same fridge freezer, different badge with next day delivery. Our cooker hood was scratched and have an 8 week lead time for a new one.

I did they same, heels ok, toes cold. In bedrooms I didn't but UFH pipes below the beds, as in previous house we had them below the bed and felt like I was melting in bed

I would beware of joints under your concrete, should the joint fail, what do you do to fix it? A tee and 90 above the floor and run the second pipe to you ice maker

We have a huge overhang above our lounge windows, great in the summer, but we do get solar gain after lunch now, we had the windows open to get some cold (8 deg) air in the house last night as it was 24 degs inside.

We ran our cold water in the concrete below the insulation so the water was alway a good drinking temperature. So may be run the cold pipe at the bottom and hot in the middle

Depends on the floor buildup. Don't your architect or structural engineering drawings specify what it should be. Ours was reinforced C34 above sand blinding, then 200mm of insulation, then bonded cement screed. But no one was supplying during lockdown, near us, so we used more C34 as that was readily available and were using it at the same time for structural pads to hold our roof down.

Review Got the heater, from eBay and it comes with a remote control. A little larger than expected, but ok. You can set temperature and run down timer and change fan speed from low to high, you cannot operate without fan on. The heater will modulate the heater output, once it senses room is up to your pre set temperature. Fan is a little noisy for a bedroom, but if you just want to take the chill of a room, which what I was looking for it's fine. Once the room at an ok temperature then switch it off. Once you select off, a 60 second rundown timer starts to allow the unit cool down before it stops. For under £20 not bad

There are others on this site, that charge the floor via UFH on cheap rate overnight electricity, basically an immersion heater in a tube. Very simple plumbing and low cost parts. DHW, is done in a similar fashion but in a cylinder, in summer excess PV will keep your DHW hot if you install a diverter. Small panel heater in bedrooms if you want them warm. Electric towel rads to dry towels winter and summer.

May be worth getting a magnet and check if magnetic or not, stainless isn't magnetic.

Just installed a gas combi, with thermal store, the thermal store acts as the buffer for the central heating, through a boiler coil. Tank thermostat set at 35degs. UFH uses the thermal store water. The cold water is fed through the DHW coil to an Atag A325ECX boiler which can takes pre heated water. The immersion is connected to PV diverter, use surplus electricity, expect to get all my summer hot water for free. In the winter the combi gets water at approx 35deg so performs well.

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I use gloves for everything now, as a kept loosing my finger print (small cuts and scrapes) for my phone.

For UFH design you download loopcad for a 1 month free trial. You build you house in the software and you can then experiment to get what suits you and the house. If you are not air tight on the rest of the house MVHR, may not be the right way to go. If you are, look on eBay for surplus stock clearance etc, my whole MVHR, cost £2700 for everything. I went for oversized fan units to keep fan speed as low as possible, to ensure noise is as low as possible. Match airflows in and out, in England I think it's 0.3 air changes per hour in Scotland 0.5.

Have a slightly higher demand to yourself, and also running a combi, tried it without a buffer and the boiler just short cycles, so you are going the right way. I have used an open vent thermal store, with the boiler heating the store via a coil and thermostatic switch set at around 40 degrees. Using store as I want to dump excess summer solar PV into it as heat and then use as DHW in the summer. If you can also run your cold water feed to the DHW through a coil in the buffer, this will preheat the cold water and improve DHW performance in the winter.

We had a barrel for burning stuff on, so did my own experiment Put Icycene spray foam off cuts, PIR, Rockwool and glass wool, durisol blocks, aluminium vapour acvl and Pert-al-Pert tube materials on the burning fire at different stages. Icycene and PIR burnt very quickly Rockwool not touched , came out the way it went in. Glass wool, mostly unaffected, sort of matted together. Durisol blocks, become slightly more friable, but didn't burn and stayed in shape. Aluminium AVCL, paper backing burnt away, but otherwise intact, just a bit wrinkled. Pert-al-Pert, plastic disappeared, aluminium core remained intact. PIR, would I use in a high rise or anything above a couple of stories no. I have it inside my Durisol blocks, protected by concrete and Durisol and under the floor, again sandwiched between concrete. Icycene, is inside roof, protected by plasterboard, and aluminium AVCL. This would buy time to escape the building. I have Rockwool in every internal wall, to mitigate fire spread. Should of had in the roof, but 250m2 of roof I would have lost the will to live, installing it. Like all things it a balance of risk Vs reward. Companies exist to make profit, would you really trust any of them - watch the film Dark Waters about Teflon

Just bought one similar, but with remote. Will also report back. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plug-In-Wall-Heater-500w-Mini-Electric-Space-Portable-Digital-Timer-Ceramic-Heat-/133901305662?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

We have two issues 1. Changed the use of one the bedrooms and need some additional heat. 2. Room has wet underfloor heating running at low temperature, but we installed carpets with UFH underlay, but it insulated the concrete floor from room too much. Room temp ok for a bedroom, but not for sitting in for any length of time. Need a temporary heat source as room will revert back to a bedroom in a year or so. Have seen this, but not sure if a load of rubbish or good, only need about 300 to 400w. Anyone used or have an alternative temporary solution. Thanks https://www.dunelm.com/product/plug-in-ptc-heater-500w-1000190124?defaultSkuId=30737374&branchCode=0515&ds_c=Christmas_Heaters_[GOO-LIA+PSB-ELECTRICALS-HEATING]&gclid=CjwKCAjwz5iMBhAEEiwAMEAwGC68C9R_lEL5lStKsf9mfXkq8I79IUi_83djyk6HGVSVFfV2-66O3hoCm-oQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

This is what our instructions said that came with the pump When using pump models with pump housing code 65B (item 9 in Figure 3), use the G1/2 check valve (item 14 in Figure 3) supplied in the packaging. This prevents water from flowing through the pump backwards when any faucet is opened, thus causing damage. • When using a check valve other than the factory supplied one, pay attention to the appropriate closing pressure. • Install the check valve after the pump in the direction of flow, so that the arrows on the pump housing and on the check valve point in the same direction

Do you have a check valve installed to stop reverse flow?

I went a slightly different route, and used Sarnafil S327. Fully welded standing seam, but not metal. Can be installed by only approved and qualified installer, came out at £70 per m2 with felt underlay installed. We have fully voulted ceilings and didn't want rain on steel noise.

Would you be better having the insulation below the concrete? Wood above the insulation will give very little load bearing if you used for cars later. Would you benefit from better u value for the walls as the building is being heated, your electrical bills could be huge? Consider using a layer of PIR over studs on the inside, if you tape this you could delete the vcl and improve u value by reducing the repeat thermal bridge. Do you need a double skin of osb/ do you need any osb? Should there be a dpc/ DPM at the bottom of the wall?

Today a few scraps/ off cuts from the build. Next trees we cut down a year or so ago, just need to chop it up, and build somewhere to store it, so out with the huge store of pallets we now have and build a log store

Well, 8 degs and wet outside, so we lit the stove. One small load of wood on minimum air setting, we now have the windows open to cool down.

Use soapy water at the joints, if foams you have a leak, if it doesn't you don't