JohnMo

Pretty much a waste of time, any soil will be full of weed seeds anyway. You are best to get top soil down raked and level, compact, re raked and level. Leave a few weeks for the weeds to grow, then kill them. Then look to do your lawn.

It all about control out with the UFH pump and mixer. UFH mixer sets the min flow temp. So can almost be ignored in cooling mode. There are several threads on here that discuss the details with drawings, but you will have to have search to find them.

You will generate loads of excess power in the summer, but you load limit that if you want, or export if allowed. In the winter when production is rubbish, you will still have your base loads covered and plenty of hot water by driving your heat pump.

Stuffing heat into the floor works well. We put 30 degree flow temp in it for about 5 to 6 hours, that's enough to last 18 hours, until the next charge. But it all depends on heat losses. With the buffer your UFH pump mixer arrangement will draw from and return to a buffer, with no issues. 1500l heated from 30 to 50, would take circa 35kWh.

Mine has about 4 to 6mm mesh openings. Did read somewhere that if it has a fine mesh it should be removed.

Does look a bit like that and very silver.

You could actually have two arrays, one east one west, optimisers and two string inverter. Would increase your winter yields as it would give a longer solar day.

Spurred on by this thread, have made an effort to reduce the piping heat losses further. Covering the hot piping areas in 25mm PIR sheeting (more left overs got rid off) and aluminium tape. Wife saying - your always messing about, don't know why your bothering.

Two rows of panels between the roof windows, fully integrated no need to slate in those areas. We didn't do external blinds just internal, with roof overhangs for summer shading.

Roof slates and integrated PV. We have UFH in bedrooms but I am not sure it's a good choice, if you are having fan coils any way, not not use then for heat and cooling. Reason I think not a good choice, the floor takes an age to heat up and cool back down again. So you go to bed in a warm or hot room that stays like that the rest of the night. Radiators or fan coils quick to heat and the heat doesn't hang about that long after. The A2A should do heating also. Yes lots of glazing and well insulated warm house. 16 to 17 for the last few days, the odd bit of sun, house hasn't dropped below 22 even with doors and windows open. Internal or external blinds are a must have.

Million pound build and concrete roof tiles, really? Hope you getting a huge array for the cost of the PV. Otherwise you are wasting money. You seem to be double dipping with a heat pump for heating and another for cooling, could they not be combined. A heat pump that does cooling and the ufh heating then engage a single system to cool or heat? You are having UFH which is out of sight, then adding fan coils which are in your face to look at and to blow air at you.

We have only got 52 tonnes of floor slab to play with. Stuffing heat into works well. We put 30 degree flow temp in it for about 5 to 6 hours, that's enough to last 18 hours, until the next charge.

OSO, do A rated cylinders, heat loss about 0.8kWh per 24 HR.

And no electronics to fail, or generally no reliability issues.

If your really lucky it will be a heat pump dryer.

Can't you do that with a normal cylinder, why do you need a sunamp? Just get a A rated cylinder for a 1/3 the cost.

Basically the exact same route on our build, only difference is we have a dry ridge (mortar bed isn't allowed on new builds in Scotland) and we have sarking boards (another Scottish thing) below the breather membrane.

Is this a new build or existing, as I thought you had to install a treatment plant now. Which has a separate soakaway. Can't get pea gravel, crushed stone or what ever your install manual says. Get from builders merchants or direct from a quarry for half the cost.

Not sure of the original energy rating. But it leaked heat quite well. I had a section of the additional insulation off yesterday and you could feel outside of the cylinder hot. Which you didn't before. It still looses heat quicker than I want.

May be worth reading the specification. Look at the intermittent and long term max temperatures. Our circulation pump lets us set times and temperature of the hot water circulation, we only have it on for an hour or so morning and evening at around 40 degrees. So would see any issue with any pipe material suitable for domestic plumbing.

I made one for mine, used off some vapour control fabric/foil, some left over mineral wool and double sided tape. Made a load of pillow/cushions, shaped to go around the cylinder. Two layers of vapour control fabric (back to back), double sided tape on 3 sides, fill with mineral wool seal with double sided tape. They can be easily removed if I needed access. Heat exchanger is wrapped in 25mm PIR. Took about an hour.

Think it makes good sense in the summer when it's hot, as you can use to cool the slab. But at almost any other time, you are taking heat out of the floor provided by another source, i.e. a boiler, heat pump, even solar gain etc. So if you take a kW away out of the UFH return flow you need to add kW at the other end to keep things in balance. So would it be more cost effective just heat DHW from the normal source of heat.

https://www.partel.co.uk/product/21/5/alma-vert-115-kgm Slightly different product but in sheets

Last month and this month so far, my gas bill has consisted of 1/3 actual gas usage and 2/3 for the standing charge. It wasn't that long ago that Ofgem or similar, said all energy companies had to apply a standing charges. I used to use Ebico, purely because they didn't apply a standing charge.

Building Regs applicable to the area of the UK you live, should all the info you need.