JohnMo

Was supposed to be raining here for the last 3 hours, but still dry.

Question is do you need screed at all in any option - no. You could do a pug mix, basically a weak sand cement mix. Or moulded EPS for the pipes, with additional insulation below. Flooring OSB or ply above then your floor finish. Don't think 100mm PIR is deep enough, not to stop downwards heating.

Looks good. They have some strange rules.

Bought my first house at about 15% interest, (100% mortgage) new house off plan, got a good discount to have no heating and unpainted internally. Got a full heating system from the local recycling (or dump as it was known as then). But was cold and skint for the first 6 months. Would be outcry now if a 20s something, even thought about doing the same.

If you can draw a solid line without breaks through the insulation, then everything is ok. If you can't you will have a big cold bridge.

If it doesn't feel right it most probably isn't. If the stuff you see isn't looking correct, the bits you can't see will most likely be dire. Just walk away and find the right property. Don't spend your hard earned money on something not right. Live is to short.

That's a couple threads I have seen on here where mitsubishi pushed back on cooling. Mine (not mitsubishi) starts the day on cooling about 9am does DHW, then when that's done reverts happy to cooling again, for the rest of the day. Next day repeats.

That ain't cheap, I'll stick to to my 4G and £35 per month sim card. Did look at the smarty one above but that's on 3 and the coverage here is none existent. Seems I have a choice of Vodafone or O2.

That must have been very recent as I had gate posts from them not long ago

Chainsaw or shorten length, big axe to split or small axe and big hammer to push small axe into wood.

Outside tap Door bell Outside lights, I have one hole front, one rear. Outside power socket BT line Main electric Power to outside buildings TV aerial if external MVHR X2 holes ASHP x2 holes (my outside temp sensor is on ASHP), maybe communication cable x1, cylinder thermostat if connected direct to ASHP, 3 way valve power. UVC overflow

But does a Y plan not use a 3 port mid position valve that allows flow through to either or both CH and DHW, so never actually closes flow off all together. Where a heat pump valve flow can go to DHW only when energised. All other times it is directed to CH and in its failed state only directs to CH. So in effect actually operates on the same principle as 2x 2 port valves, which is very different from a Y plan valve.

Sitting on the toilet has your back to the entrance. Also from a practical view it becomes a pinch point the room, I would have sink and toilet on the same wall.

You don't, you use a closed cell pipe insulation, such as armacell. 25mm wall thickness will give as good or better than pre made expensive stuff. Then use underground rated pipe or duct to keep it safe. Take you chosen pipe, I used Hep2O 28mm for my 6kW ASHP, add insulation, then insert through duct, I used twin wall 110mm black flexible duct. I made 2 assemblies one supply the other a return rack about 4m long each. I left a tail of Hep2O pipe out of each end to take up the wall and used a Tectite 90 deg coupler to transition to copper pipe through wall. Seal the end of the underground assembly with stainless mesh or aluminium scouring pads and closed cell spray foam to keep wildlife out. I spent about an hour or so making the 2 pipes.

Really it is similar to all mechanical things. A car for example can do 100mph, if you drove it a 100mph your fuel consumption would be worse than driving at 50mph. An easy experiment most have done, drive hard your fuel consumption suffers. Accelerate gently, moderate your speed fuel consumption decreases. Why - it's having to do more work, it has to fight aerodynamic drag, move the mass of the vehicle during acceleration, the engine is producing more kW to maintain the speed. So a heat pump is doing the same, the cooling fan is having to work harder, the same physical laws apply to that as the car moving through air. The compressor works harder, same as the car engine. Just listen to the heat pump towards the end of a DHW heating cycle, it's noisy, on heating mode almost silent, if the flow temps are low. It's doing less work, requires less kW to maintain that work.

You have a nice cold bridge where the steel goes through the block work. So you will have to wrap the whole steel with insulation.

Salus auto balancing valves can take an hour or so to calibrate. Did you have heat to the manifold, if you didn't the valves have nothing to calibrate themselves against. It looks like you are trying to bleed the system also, do things logically. Take actuators off, install hand valves that came with the manifold. Open all valves fully - Bleed system. Ensure heat source is fully working, pressurise system, bring hot water into system, this will chase the final bits of air out the system bleeds. Check for leaks. Run manually until everything has warmed up. Check for leaks again. Switch off. Now look at the electric side of things. Tidy all the wiring up. It looks a mess. Reset your actuators per the instructions, so they go though the commission process again. Power up do a call for heat on all circuits leave it to sort it's self out for an hour or so.

Removing pollution from urban areas is good thing in favour of electric vehicles. Efficiency of power trains, an electric vehicle is basically a single speed gear train, so should always be efficient, than multi-speed transmission. But getting back on topic, how do you add batteries to an AC PV inverter - instead of a hybrid inverter?

Unless the electric comes from a renewable source, the electric car does no better than the ICE. Electric vehicle only really win when the grid is renewable or a good percentage.

I keep getting after about 6 to 8 weeks, can I have a bit more information, then another 6 to 8 weeks, can I have bit more completely different information.

Would cost me more than £2k for the trench, let alone the duct or any other equipment.

They have been around for decades, you can buy metal ones as well from other sources. I thinks it's basically a polymer that contracts and expands with varying humidity, that in turn open and closed the vent. No batteries or power required.

Not if you use the ones I referenced they open and close automatically.

You indeed could, but that won't happen mid winter when you need ventilation.

I pay £35 for unlimited data through Voxi.