JohnMo

Noise, bought a dMEV fan the blurb said it was silent - it wasn't, so really looked at the specs and compared to others. At min speed old one over 25dBA and new it's 10dBA sound pressure level. So really look at the noise levels that will define how much one running 24/7 will p**s you off

Sounds like tell the press and social media then think about. There is absolutely nothing to trial if the array is G98 or whatever approved, it's no different from an MCS install.

Also I know that Grant make the case for under rather than oversizing and the volumiser they sell have an immersion built in, with heat pump controller used to add immersion heat when the heat pump can no longer give enough heat to heating circuit.

I generally thought that is the assumption, even MCS use that model, you size for 99.6% of the year, not the coldest day you thought someone may have seen.

Then the heat pump you are installing is too small!

Not sure any of think that far ahead. Possibly only need a simple dT controller on a variable speed pump, to manage temperature rise across the PHE on the cylinder side. Or even simpler for a DIY solution - a gate valve to set flow rate on the cylinder side, and make the pump manual, then during commissioning set pump at best speed and use the gate to move the duty point on the pump curve to get the dT you want.

He is trying to heat up a couple towel rads for 15mins at a time. No idea why or what advantage it serves over running for a longer period at a lower temp. Add an electric element to the rad on a timer - or just let the towel rads be warm when the balance of the system is on - or both. Anything else is stupid complicated for no real reason and most (time splicing for example) almost impossible to program with a normal heat pump. should this read inefficiency?

Sounds about right, you heat lots of water an get very little out. That's a similar experience as my thermal store, hence why have bought an unvented cylinder. I heat about 180L of water an get a shower and some general washing up. Not the most economical use of electric.

Been there done it, really wouldn't bother again. Sell it move on, have the cash in the bank, so you can use when you need it. It can take you 4 to 6 months to sell and have the cash in hand, even if you started making moves today.

Would have agree.

To run a Willis cost effectively you need a floor that can store the heat and slowly release over the day AND be on a low rate tariff AND a reasonably low total heat requirement.

Our electrician did exactly the same. We are in Scotland - dry lined and taped. Taper expects the back box holes to exist, prior to starting his taping. I assume you are insulating, as well to help stop sound?

For that to occur you need one of the zones to be a mixed flow. You also need to run the heat pump at the highest temperature - that will need deep pockets. Think you really need to go back to basics on how a heat pump works best. You are just making stuff ineffective

Not sure the statistics can be believed, there is no way mine will ever show up as it was self installed. Nor would any other self installed ASHP.

Why do you think you can? Not that normal, unless you are controlling a mixing valve on the cooler loops. Most heat pump have a single flow temp for central heating, this may change depending on outside air temp

Just shows the disjointed thinking and message from a government playing lip service to most things including the environment. This isn't a Torry snipe, they are all as bad as each other including the Greens and everyone in between.

I've applied let's see how it goes.

Think running towels rails only from a heat pump is daft irrespective of the buffer size. Make then dual fuel, with an electric element. In the heating season run them with the rest of the heating system and any other time on the electric element.

Don't really see it making much difference to anything. I found them a waste of money and faff.

At any other time than at the very end of a DHW cycle, I have to look at the fan to see if it's on. Silent from a couple of meters away. Even at the end of the DHW cycle you would not class it a noisy.

Shouldn't answer stuff latest night, you are correct Here is my heat pump sound data as a starter for 10.

It's the normal planning bull. I had exactly the same with my ventilation system and gas boiler, they needed data sheets for everything. You give them what they want to hear, they are able to tick a box, job done. They don't examine to make sure model and make xyz is installed, it could be 5 years later when you ask for a completion cert make and model xyz may not exist then. Don't ask questions you don't want an answer too. They have to respond the way they have. That is meaningless without a distance dimension.

Actually build it yourself - saves a fortune, only get jobs done, you can't or don't want to do yourself. Pay for labourer second pair of hands for six months, you will make good progress. Shop around for everything. Some of the features you mentioned will lead to massive overheating, so be careful for what you ask for. But good design need not cost more, it just needs to be well thought through. Research, when you think you know enough you are only half way there. Do it right do it once. Don't change stuff as you go along stick rigidly to the design. We spent a year fine tuning the design, then built the house in year, spent the last 2 years getting the heating system to perform how I want it to. Then installed a heat pump - like I should have at the start. But you learn all the time. Don't add bells and whistles because they sound good, if they don't add real value to you, they don't add value, they are not required. For us home automation fell into the category, wanted it at the start, but started seeing systems we looked at, stop being supported, thought a light switch will do just fine, if it breaks anywhere will have a replacement.

Just follow the noise rules and calculations of MSC020, to keep yourself on the right side of the noise guidelines. Then your in no worse a situation than a full MCS install. That can get noise complaints just as described above by @JamesPa. Install via MCS is generally just under permitted development rights, if they follow the noise regs and you get a complaint environmental health still get involved. So same same which ever way you look at it. So why pay the MCS premium

If it's on your plans and approved, without set out conditions, it's approved