JohnMo

https://buffer-tank.co.uk/domestic-hot-water.php The above have add on DHW coil modules, think they also do tank in tank, so DHW in a tank that sits inside the buffer water.

What angle do you class as very shallow? Assume you are really meaning a flat roof if you are limited to 6.4m? Good for summer generation, rubbish for winter. Can you angle on top of roof?

How do you achieve a fully considered conclusion?

My steps would be Set all thermostats and radiator valves to above room room temperature target. Set up your weather compensation without any interference from thermostats. Longer term look to simplify everything to ASHP, diverter valve, possibly a mixer if you need it depending on where flow temperature lands for radiators and floor.

So question is do you need a higher flow temp to allow you play catch-up, once out of setback? if so how is this managed? Also do you allow in the calculations the heat pump running a full or increased load for a few hours to to recover from a set back. Obvious question is why would you bother, with the added complexity, cost to install other stuff and then have to fine tune for steady state, setback and recovery from steady state.

I got this out of home assistant and is the flow temperature going in to the UFH. It has only done two cycles today. First run was at 0425, stopping at 0452, so about 27 mins run time, then off for an hour, restarting around 0550 and running 20 mins or so. It was about 10 degs outside. Now 13 deg. This is the garden room I am trying to keep warm (19 to 20 degs). All being done without a thermostat on WC only. Currently getting about 1 deg swing in temperature. This is the house also connected in the same zone so also getting the same heated water in the UFH, house floor acting as a buffer. Getting 0.25 deg Swing Temp.

Good, we need more. Better than a field or ten or smelly pigs like we have near us. Best producing sites normally have sheep or cows to keep grass and weeds at bay. Vertical panels and crops go well together also so are ideally for food production Not all land east Anglia is prime farming land.

We had a Renualt Trafic during the build, but now have a Ford Transit connect with folding front seat. Can actually get more useful stuff in it, than the Trafic, because the hard bulkhead got in the way. Small van now gets used more than our car, best money you can spend on a vehicle.

It's just an adjustable blending valve, you are only altering the amount of return water that gets mixed into supply water. They aren't the best mixer. They generally will always drop the temperature of the supply by around 10 degs or more. So if your max supply is 45 degs you will get somewhere around 35 degs in the floor. Really depends on the difference in design temp of the floor compared to radiators and also the floor buildup. If you need to blend electronic (ESBE) controlled by your Vaillant controller would be best. But at full retail prices - ouch not cheap. A mechanical solution would be an Ivar mixer that will control to exact temperatures and is very adjustable.

Welcome, lots to learn and a good place to start your journey. Currently sitting in our woodcrete ICF house. A versatile building method, just follow the build manual and it's pretty straightforward.

We wrangled and then the wife said we are building there for the views, big windows or I veto the build - decision made, triple glazing added to the plan. Later after build ASHP for active cooling.

Keep your money in your pocket, simplify, get rid of zones, then you don't need a devise to compensate for zones switching on and off - which is the intended service of these actuators.

We are NE Scotland so hot days are less extreme, but we get quite a bit of solar gain especially in spring and autumn. Have had up to 27 inside the lounge when about 10 outside. When hot outside Close all windows and doors. Close blinds if sun coming in If a warm period have the UFH in cooling mode. UF cooling will temper the extreme, but makes the house feel cooler than the air temperature would suggest. Your body heat is moving to the floor (radiating). Once inside is warmer than outside open windows and doors. But leave cooling mode on.

Any would do the job Use what ever method is normal for your area, then trades are easy to get.

Or do a stick build?

Have you actually worked out the figures of Comfoclime for your flow rates? Because to get 1.7kW cooling you need flow rates of over 400m3/h, so passivhaus flow rates for MVHR that a 500m² house give or take. Cooling and MVHR is a bit of waste of money as you are only changing the air every 2 to 3 hrs. It's not good enough. We are not passive, but get overheated with big windows and the sun coming in under the canopy roof. Over heat days overall is not much, but the hours it is hot - without intervention it's very hot. Think, solar glazing, blinds external or less effective (but still good) internal blinds Real Aircon or ASHP with fan coils or UFH with UFH (cooling).

I wanted passive purple for our house, tried calling, email everything, radio silence, never returned emails, messages left with reception. Hope they are better now.

Still confused why a domestic house needs 3 phase?

Currently no. I have a add on coming from Italy hopefully next week that ties in to the modbus allows me log running data directly. I am currently monitoring with a Shelly add on, but the graphics turn in to hourly unless you want to pay a monthly fee. Also monitor on the controller, but it has no direct output or graphics unless you tie in to the modbus.

You can turn the flow rate to this loops down to get less heat transfer. You could use it for monitoring, but really not needed. Ours started with a thermostat in every room. Had loads of issues, with short cycling - they got deleted down to one. Also had a mixer and pump on UFH that didn't help either, so deleted them also. People will say you need a mixer to protect the floor, when you change over from DHW heating, as you will get a slug of hot water going into the floor. But it is a couple of liters and the heat quickly dispersed. Think I can actually manage with zero thermostats and just leave the heat pump to get on with it. Will leave the one I have in place for now, but overridden. Tuning the system and getting your head round all the parameters you can change and what to ignore is the most difficult bit. Dread to think how many times I have read the manual.

Or pay for a G99 inverter if you need to and switch to zero export. The maths for paying MCS prices would soon change if we went that direction.

Little strange the house in the images only have about 2kW of PV, not sure how that would work. Only some plots are zero bills they are EPC A, but developers website has zero detail except stating the house has ASHP, battery and PV.

If it were me, thinking about it. Use a normal smart relay to drive a properly rated normal switching relay. Leave the smart device to do low load switching. The switching relay can be either DIN rail mounted or in own enclosure.

And add bait boxes, we had a rodent issue last winter, ended up with bait boxes, got through about 8kg of poison in 3 months. Still found a hole that wasn't there a year ago in the shed insulation.

You either have one zone or many, you seem to claim both? If you want efficiency dump all the thermostats, maybe keep one (the one in your controller) One zone is best, but lots of loops, all on or all off. But no real need to stop. Low and slow weather comparison is the most efficient generally. If you want efficiency 1. No mixers, buffers, thermostats no actuators on manifold needed. 2. Balance the loops to get the room temps right. 3. You need floor temp as close to room temp as practical, then if the room heats from the sun that area of the floor stops giving off heat, so heat pump modulates down to compensate. Just spent the last couple of days optimising mine. Low flow temp required 11 degs outside, set flow temp target to 26 degs. The start and stop delta to start and stop the ASHP compressor are key. Ours stopped heating at lunch time today with no intervention from me or any thermostat - just because the sun came out, house got to 21.5. Keep as simple as possible for efficiency.