JohnMo

Start by looking at continuity insulation. First place its missing on the edge of the screed. So enhancement is required there, add insulation width equal to being flush with the inner edge of the skirting Second your inner wall of blocks is directly connected to ground, so you need a thermal break there. Two rows of aerated blocks will be fine. Move dpm so the aerated blocks are inside and stay dry. Enhancement two adds nothing to the party already being done by aerated blocks Enhancement three brings nothing additional to the party there is no thermal bridge there.

Is at the end of the system, could the radiators be balanced, so the flow is be gobbled up by the rest of the system. Enough flow to feel heat in the pipe but not enough to push through the radiator. Have you tried switching off a couple of other rads, to see if it improves things? That may tell you where you need to make changes

What I found when I started looking is the UPS function on most inverters is pretty useless, they can only output a very small kW so only likely to support a few lights not much. I went AC coupled because it would take over fully (6kW) and I can do just about whatever I want while I have battery power. Borehole pump, sewage system, MVHR, heat pump on, boil the kettle etc. When that runs out of power we also have a generator that can do the same.

Just to butt in once more - it was a condition of drilling - no water diviner no borehole. Don't know - don't care really. The man said, drill here, you will hit water at about 16-20m ignore not enough water going to that site, drill to 32m. Report from drilling company Drilled new borehole to 34m Used 27m steel casing. First strike at 20m. Second strike at 29m. Estimated flow at time of drilling 900 gallons per hour.

Whatever, I will bow out, leave to it

Where are the valves located on the radiator?

Any AC coupled battery would do the job they don't care how AC is made

Because it's been drilled and has been product water for the last 4 years. He also said all the feed sources for the well. So should be able to follow your pipes etc to get to the borehole.

So in reality you need a heat pump that do 6kW at your design temp, this will allow two hours for DHW, (2x 1 HR slots) while also supplying all your heating demand

Lot of things wrong Heat loss calculation say 5.5kW heat loss. But heat pump at design conditions can put out 9.5kW. it's too big a heat pump. Flow temp is a joke, push for 35 degs, for a decent running cost, otherwise take out a second mortgage. Or just don't bother.

Find your local water diviner. Ours found where our bore hole should be located and depth to drill, and was out by a metre on depth and spot on with location. £80 well spent.

No, if it's a Vaillant, you are unlikely to be in a protective zone height wise, so the first clause doesn't get you. But in a different sector states the second clause. 1. Vaillant says for example A protective zone is defined around the product. There must be no windows, doors, light shafts, cellar entrances, escape hatches, flat-roof windows or ventilation openings in the protective zone. But even with a window move and outside the protective zone it also states the below. 2. Avoid choosing an installation position which is near to a window. Interesting my R32 does not mention windows at all.

Read the manufacturer instructions for the unit you are interested in. The instructions trump everything else.

Missed a bit of detail. Cold and hot domestic water 1m from cylinder. All pipes on the heating circuit for the cylinder insulate, so you are not heating the insulated envelope in the summer. Pipes for the central heating circuit, no point insulating. Any void pipes pass through will either will be heated by room above, below or adjacent to by secondary heating from the rooms. As heat always moves to cold. Might not make sense in a high temp heating system, but a heat pump one it should.

Every decking needs maintenance, we pressure wash ours at least once a year, doesn't need to be coated (composite) but it does need to be kept clean and algae free.

Why would it, the hybrid inverter would be attached to the PV panel system for example. That would manage flow in and out of the system.

You can get anti slip wood decking coated in a very rough sand filled coating. Suspect as it's factory applied there would be much maintenance. Seen it used in commercial settings. Not good for bare feet through

Or a decent AC coupled battery will provide the whole house with electricity automatically. You don't even notice the mains power going. We get up 6kW continuously and up to 7kW for switching loads. It's a definite add it later option, can used normal string inverters, doesn't need hybrid.

Fan coils are designed really for commercial. A 4 port configuration is for different heat and cooling plant. Not really for a domestic setting where heat and cooling is provided by an ASHP.

Good for you, do you have planning and warrant yet? where abouts in the North?

Ultra deck - Signature Dual. About a third the price of our local builders merchants. Comparing it seems identical, exactly the same colour on both sides, same dimensions same material.

Looking at the data sheet The 4 port cooling capacity is only slightly lower than the 2 port - about 5%. The heating capacity is 30% lower. So unlikely to be just cut in half.

We have had quite a few power cuts, no alerts or anything

You don't even do that anymore, push joints or pressed joints. And really you only need those pipes within 1m of the cylinder and outside, anything inside the heated envelope is heating the house, so unless you are cooling below dew point not much need. In fact Heat Geek say don't bother.

I have one and it's a Myson iVector 120, 4 pipe, so has two heat exchangers (normally one for heat, and one for cooling) but have these are piped in series, so both are always engaged allow me to heat at much lower temps.