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Everything posted by JohnMo
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Just looked at cost of flexible stick down panels - scary prices.
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I am using Axle VPP. 3 events this month so far.
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Generally a thin film technology with a 15 year life. But can perform better than mono crystalline in low light conditions. But worth now days, most likely not. We runs ours on Cosy tariff, so you can actually size to meet just under 1/3 of peak winter consumption, as you get cheap periods to run house and charge the battery. Rest of the year I just charge to 60% and it does fine, never discharged low and never fully charged to help life of battery. We are paying 10p kWh instead of near 27-30p. Plus get a compatible battery to allow you to join a VPP scheme (virtual power plant) and earn £1 per kWh on export events. Helps justify pay back a little better.
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Solar and efficiency isn't really that important, it's just a measure of output compared to possible irradiation. So panels are bigger compared to 25% efficiency. As long as you have space, no issues. From what I have seen price wise not a cheap solution - but maybe your only solution. Will you get payback? Maybe a long one. Would just a battery give a better bang for the buck? - possibly.
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Think the issue is not you, just shows the lack of attention to detail, by so called trades people. How things look and are balanced is important. We had to get a couple ceiling lights moved, they didn't align with anything and looked crap.
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He did say he was building a big house, maybe its really really big and got a side extension. Maybe its that new build castle on Grand Designs
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It always made me laugh using stainless bolts / screws with the aluminium clamps as used in a approved kits. From a materials perspective it's a disaster waiting to happen. Aluminium and stainless are not best of friends. Aluminium being a sacrificial anode to stainless.
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I would place it well away from house, not sure how your house insurance would react to a house fire caused by self install car battery to house using YouTube instructions? Is the price savings even worth the effort these days, plenty of cheap battery setups available.
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Some basics here https://www.theglasgowlawpractice.co.uk/at-what-point-is-a-house-sale-legally-binding-in-scotland-from-making-an-offer-to-concluding-missives-learn-about-property-purchase-in-scotland/ Saying beware, be sure your missives are signed before getting carried away.
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Not quite correct, you need signed missives by both parties to fully legally binding. And this only gets done at the end of proceedings now - it used to be done at the start of proceedings. So don't count on it.
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Could he also sell if a better offer came along. Would suspect his and your solicitor will come up with a very different scheme.
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You need to get get bait boxes and suitable bait, get rid the problem, they will be your warm house next
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Does XPS insulation require vapour control layer?
JohnMo replied to flanagaj's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
VCL goes at the bottom. Between the insulation and concrete you can put a thin polythene layer, as mentioned above to keep concrete out of the insulation, if it gets in your insulation will float up. -
If your a well insulated house, your flow temp isn't going to much higher than about 28 at -lots outside, so zero point going beyond that. We never bothered doing any drying cycling as we didn't have a heat source at the time. Your heat pump is pretty unlikely to fire up, if the floor is already warm. It will or should have a drying programme, so run that and limit max temperature otherwise you'll just melt.
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The average, not the worst or best the average. Pretty simple. Look it up, plenty of info out there, but approx 3x worse. in theory, if we generate enough electricity and we don't, and people can afford it. No issue with that, have voted with my own feet and my own money (no grant money taken).Now getting cheaper bill because of it (a lot cheaper). But again we needs lots of electric generation. Scotland way further ahead than the rest of the UK. All I am saying is aviation isn't great. But to keep flying, you may need to open the oil and gas pipe line again - which you are opposed too. You can't have everything.
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Weather Comp + independent zone valve
JohnMo replied to Mr Blobby's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
Generally all heat pump stuff is 28mm and bigger. If your pipe runs are short 22mm is fine, if they are long 28mm may be better. Valve https://www.unventedcomponentseurope.com/inta-1-female-swivel-x-1-male-heat-pump-extended-lever-ball-valve-hpbv11.html/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=Copy Unvented Components Europe&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=adtribes&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17178278874&gbraid=0AAAAADCTOYDIF7_WqM1JdaR45hjcYe7rN&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlqTRBhCBARIsANrkrxiP5YU1oqx-01ITZliqfzcXOrTDlwcJv1dfpMhdWYFUDscVx6Kw2D0aAtV4EALw_wcB -
Partition walls: what is the best way to build them
JohnMo replied to MariaD's topic in General Construction Issues
Stud wall in wood should just get a big tick. -
But these emissions and others are in a worse place at high altitude, so in effect 3x times as bad as ground based pollutants. So now you have jumped to 2 Tonnes. I read 2.2, so we have different sources. But 4 in the family home is equal to 500kg if your playing the per person game. But for me one transatlantic flight per person is same as heating by gas for a year per person, but high altitude emissions are 3x as bad for the environment.
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Did read. So your calculations are still wrong. It still uses almost the same quantity of fuel for 1 person or a few hundred. I've been on business only flights from Singapore to Houston and there were 12 fare paying passengers - so the maths don't make much sense. My car car does 20 mpg, but with 5 people in it, does it all of a sudden do 100mpg. No it still does 20mpg. Strange way to say I like long haul flights and here is my justification. Aircraft use a shit load of fuel, putting the emissions where they do the least good. I have done way more than my fair share of trips around the world, doesn't make good or sensible anymore.
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Partition walls: what is the best way to build them
JohnMo replied to MariaD's topic in General Construction Issues
All our internal walls are wooden stud, 3x2 for non structural 4x2 for structural. Lined with plasterboard. 50mm insulation in the 3" and 75mm in 4". Easy to do, all materials readily available. 3x2 with 12.5mm end up 95mm thick. Water resistant plasterboard in wet rooms. Mine are all dry lined, as are most in Scotland, zero issues for me. -
Yes we can get fresh fruit from the other side of the world out of season, we can go ongoing haul holiday's - is any of this good for the environment - no. But sounds like you want to keep your holidays and who cares. Sorry me swooping to ASHP may have a good impact on the environment - but it's super small impact. Insignificant compared to even starting a gas turbine let alone dragging 540 Tonnes of A380 into the sky. The aircraft can do about 80 to 90 miles per US gallon per person. Which any diesel car can do with 2 people in it and double that with 4 people in it.
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Weather Comp + independent zone valve
JohnMo replied to Mr Blobby's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
I used these to get the snow clearance needed to comply with OEM requirements for snow. https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/pump-house-1000mm-condensing-unit-mounting-block/?pid=P667987 -
Weather Comp + independent zone valve
JohnMo replied to Mr Blobby's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
No not room influence - whole house, one room sensor/thermostat for whole house. Hiaer doesn't have a thermostat built into the controller. It is connected to outside temperature sensor so also allows oat switching the whole heat pump off in heating mode when outside is an average (over 6 hrs) above 10 degs. No need to get excited, still single single zone, WC, no actuators, just an on off permission, mostly because running heat pump at 9 degs OAT on full WC at about 22 degs doesn't work, which is about the temperature it needs at that temperature. So heat pump uses a simple permission to run at 26 degs, runs for a couple of hours and then shuts off for about 18 hrs. The colder it gets the longer the run time. No setbacks just single room temperature 24/7. But really needed for cooling as I run a set flow temp with humidity over ride. So makes sense to flick a single switch that takes thermostat from heat cool and same switch moves ASHP between heat cool also.
