JohnMo

Take some stuff through the wall?

Observations the untrimmed room temperature is higher than that used for trimmed, TRV and smart trv, so no surprise you use less energy by lowering the room. Your CoP will remain similar as you have the same flow temperature. Achieving a reduced house temp via running a second set point would have resulted in an increased CoP and further reduced energy consumption - due to lower flow temperature. So why not add use native controller for the heat pump to manage setbacks, if you need them. Or just get house to sit at a stable lower temperature and take a win for simplicity, less cost upfront.

Only thing you have to watch is actual engagement water capacity with a heat pump or boiler. To prevent short cycling you need to maintain 20L of system capacity per min output kW - any radiator or UFH circuit operated by a TRV or thermostat is basically excluded from the capacity calculation. Plus you need to ensure minimum flow rate is maintained in all operating modes. If you are not careful this can drive a buffer or volumiser. A buffer will add costs for vessel and additional pump, it can lead to flow temperature distortion and reduced CoP. A volumiser adds cost during install.

First heat pump name plate ratings are meaningless. They all take a different datum point for the rating. Vaillant tend to use a low ambient. Worst thing you can do for efficiency is oversize you heat oump. On the design day and they don't happen often you can always flick on the immersion, but doubt you will need too.

Not sure how you have worked that out? Think you need to explain in more detail what you are trying to do. I have thick tiles on a stud wall and plasterboard - no steel in sight. So confused what you are or aren't doing

Why bother with lightweight?

I did, put some smart stuff in, but was way more work than it needed to be, so now have a box of smart relays gathering dust. Good old light switches and 5A sockets for side lights. Works every time. Not sure I need lights changing colours or themes and then the wife nagging me why can't we just have stuff that works. KISS.

Check for moisture. If present use a liquid dpm, which is an epoxy type paint. Use a self leveling compound as needed to get level prior to Dpm paint. Bond floor direct to dpm. Why do you need to screed? Herringbone, lifes too short, for the faff and living with it if you don't get it perfect. Keep it simple.

Have you submitted your completion certificate?

I would leave bathrooms where they are, keeping living and bedrooms as separate areas. Moving a bathroom sound lots of work for little gain or loss of convenience. Then form a kitchen/diner, robbing some space for utility

It does sound a huge heat pump based on a new build even to min building regs.

If your putting a battery to cover your whole winter loads, it going to be huge and not cheap. I would size it now for an average winter day. But your tariff makes a big difference to the size, Cosy gives you 3 charge periods, a typical electric car tariff only one, so you would need a much bigger battery. Just choose a battery that can be expanded, add more later if you want as slave units.

Not so good. But it prompted me to do an exercise on my non Hep2O manifolds valves (after 5 years). Sorry can't help answer the question. But have you tried a socket or ring spanner?

Listened to podcast on electricity pricing and its way more bonkers than that. Can't recall the exact pricing mechanism, but its a bidding system. I could bid to supply electric to London although I'm in NE Scotland, be within the pricing range deemed acceptable, they would then look and say its not practical for me supply that electric to London as I am too far away, and then pay me not to generate and instead pay another supplier the highest bid to supply the electric. Until the system is simplified we are stuffed. Plus there are so many cost adders to the price we pay, it always going to expensive. Generally the policy setters and the wholesale pricing system has completely lost the plot

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I'm running 3 inverters. 1kW, 3kW and 3.6kW. I take 3.6kW and 1.0kW in to a small consumer unit with C Curve Type A Double Pole Compact RCBO (Bi-Directional) as they feed down the same cable to the house. None of the inverter talk to each other - its crude but no issues. Over clocking the inverter is easy enough. The 3.6kW has 5.8kW of panels connected to it (within voltage limits). I just accept that at around midday a whole chunk of electric could be clipped off. I have over clocked for winter performance, not summer in summer I generate a tonne anyway. The 3kW has export control and can switch the whole array off if the battery is full and I am at my export limits. Our voltage today has been about 245V at some points I was generating 6.5kW.

I was over run with vermin, used bait stations, first year got though loads of bait, now bearly any.

Think you either have to expect the following 1. MCS uplift in prices for everything then a vat reduction - overall expensive cost. 2. Buy it all yourself, pay the vat, either install yourself or get your local electrical guy to do it. Lower cost overall. I would leave original install untouched. Do the battery AC coupled then it's a stand alone job no scary PV involved for you electrician.

And it starts tomorrow!

Are you a big building firm massaging the results. I installed MVHR and happy with the fresh air feeling every day. 5 years in shower silicone looks nice and white, so bathroom well ventilated.

Definitely - vaulted ceiling are great. People seem to think they make a room hot and stuffy or takes loads of energy to heat up. But it all depends on you heat the room. High temp radiators, heat goes to fill the top of room first, so yes it does take a lot energy, air con in heating maybe the same. UFH gives a very even spread of heat, top of a vaulted room is hardly any warmer than anywhere else. Summer solar gain the heat can fill a big void above your heads first.

But build in Scotland to airtightness better than 3 it's mandatory.

I had one in 2012, was great for around 5 years, the gremlins started, replaced bit after bit as each one started to fail, then more expensive bits started to fail and then I chucked it to the recycling centre. 2000m² will need a good battery capacity, get one that is self guided doesn't need a wire guide around the lawn.

I just went one step beyond you, now just do DHW heating via the immersion on a simple immersion timer. Energy used overall not much more than the heat pump. Long pipe runs, slugs of cold water... Big heating session when we have used plenty of hot water, ASHP is definitely cheaper, smaller top up heats immersion is cheaper, overall it balances out. You can also install a super simple system if you wanted. Two pipes to UFH manifold from ASHP and you have heating and cooling sorted.

Is this new potable water or waste water treatment. What does Document H actually say you need? If doesn't ask for anything tell them it doesn't.