JohnMo

Shouldn't that be dependent on airtightness?

Are there any grants in Scotland? Everything written on here seems to apply to England and Wales. Only one I could find is for those on benefits? Would be nice to be wrong.

Half a day to replace the plastic when it happens. About a 10th the cost. Plus I only have about 6m which sees any sun.

This mine 2x 5 port (hot and cold), single feed, no flow issues.

Why so complex? Just buy a bog standard manifold such as - first one I came across https://underfloorparts.co.uk/product/plumbing-manifold-5-port-with-service-isolation-valves-universal-hot-and-cold-water/?srsltid=AfmBOorfGw6dC3Kp3bBGSXzk3717nPjKeRyytjno3wxLyrTh9oFQOkhaIOA&gQT=1

I just got my ground contractor to do it. Normal concrete lorry and in our case, but because of distance and access, we use a concrete pumping lorry also.

I wanted as the OP to do the screed before walls, so just used a normal concrete, it really doesn't care about the weather. For clarity we have zero screed, just concrete over the UFH pipes. My build-up is 200mm rebar concrete slab, then 200mm PIR, then as described further up thread.

Buffer and secondary pump and zone valve just delete them - are they needed? Most likely not.

No switching of switches required, it just does it automatically both ways. Generally no idea if there is a power cut anymore. You can see a change in trend data on the app if you look.

Depends on the inverter. I have an all in one AC battery setup, it keeps G98 approved PV inverter online with mains off. It also delivers a continuous 6kW plus PV output with mains off.

Yep No, like this, insulation (PIR) polythene barrier sheet, UFH pipes clipped to insulation through polythene, then 75mm of concrete. Power float smooth. Just like this

Just do concrete, not screed. No effect once cured with weather. Just do fibre reinforced if you need anything. We concrete with fibre 100mm thick.

Doing it again, I would most likely do a version of twin stud construction. And construction stick build on site. No big deposits to companies, builders merchants only delivery as required.

Pretty much.

Only once had an issue, but tried to light it in 60mph winds it wasn't happy. Now just use a fire lighter and it starts every time even with 60mph winds

You need to clean more often. Just get the window cleaner to do them, ours uses a demineralised water and a huge extension brush arrangement, so is done from the ground. Most window cleaners do it that way now. We clean our twice a year. You don't need any chemicals or other stuff.

Why not ICF, pretty easy DIY option. Our walls (200m² single storey upto 3.5m tall) took two of us 4 weeks start to finish.

We had our fire (stove on) when temperature dropped very low (about -6 and below). Although the room temperature was still about 20 to 21, it just felt cooler. Lit the stove and moved the house temperature up a little. Secret is don't overload with logs, heat output is proportional to how much fuel you add. Other factor is get soap stone covered stove, this slows down the output curve considerably. And use the air regulator. Decommissioning - empty ash bucket, done. 5 minutes later complete. Low energy how and stove works, just a matter of sizing correctly, specify correctly and use sensibly. Our first use of the fire caused overheating, but I fully loaded with logs, so no wonder really.

Another good reason for no internet connection to any household systems.

Sorry my view, they are taking the p!ss with mine and your tax money, they don't deserve the trade. And that's my highly editted version.of my real thoughts.

You do really - they are busy and just doing high paying work. Quote everyone high, the richer mugs will pay, so we will keep doing that work, until it dries up

People do over think stuff. With MVHR, just do a recirculation hood. The times you actually need to use them is few and far between. Cannot now remember the last time the hood got switched on. MVHR does most of what you need on its own Keep it simple

Just buy yourself a Panasonic to suit your heat needs about £3.5k, cylinder2go heat pump cylinder about £1200 from memory. Find a plumber to join it together with a 28mm 3 port diverter valve between cylinder UFH. If only UFH no need for mixer or pump. Expansion vessel and relieve valve after tee from cylinder return and a filling loop and a strainer. That's about all you need. So where these rip off merchants get the prices no idea. I just did myself, I paid £1300 (ASHP), £1000 for cylinder and another £600ish for stuff. Spent a few days installing. Got electrician to do wiring hook up. Zero faff, bought what I wanted, no justification about sizing etc.

Try 27, 28 with blinds closed, worst case is during shoulder seasons, when sun is low without cooling. Living room is 6m tall, but with fully glazed end. Although we have large roof overhang when the sun is starting to fall in the west we get the sun all gun blazing. Yes we close blinds. Cooling went on at begining April this year. Heating one day, cooling the next. done that it's still way to hot at bedtime. UFH in cooling mode temperature drops to normal levels before bedtime. We still open windows and doors about 4 to 5pm. With cooling house recovers quite quickly. 2 degs outside the last night, was still 19.5 in the house this morning. Staying in England tonight and had the heating on where we are staying. Quite bizarre we are near the top of Scotland have cooling on and currently 20.8 in the house in Scotland and the house in England with heating on is about 19.

Difference is pretty small, you are only exchanging the house air every 2 to 3 hrs. So don't expect much if any heat movement. Solar gain is way more powerful. I bought an ASHP for one reason - cooling. After living in house for one summer