JohnMo

But get them in black so UV stays out and it doesn't go green.

Over your existing pressure switch, add a shelly relay or similar, add a time based automation, it will normally takes 5 mins or less to reset, just set an hour or two automation, that if the switch hasn't reset in a hour raise an alarm.

That doesn't change direction either, the temp just changes. You will have a volume of warm or cooler water for the heat pump to process. But nothing out of the ordinary. Really not seeing why DHW and cooling is anything of a deal to worry about. Thermal gradient will be way higher mid winter, for people that run on thermostats or zone to death. Cooling lowest temp is 12ish and that only for a few minutes an hour, the rest of the time it's in recovery mode so anything up to 19.5. degrees.

Not exactly going backwards or forwards, always runs the same direction that never changes, the 4 way valve just moves the refrigerant to different places, so hot or cold goes to condenser or evaporator. Compressor doesn't care it's doing the same thing all the time.

Was on in April for 2 weeks, then the outside temperature dropped so heating on for a week, then back to cooling for the last week. Our floor is being managed to stay below 19.4 degs currently. Blue sky all day today. It's good, CoP of around 6 to 7 mostly went running. Although first few hours we got over 8. Plus billy bonus it only generally runs when the sun's out so free running cost, powered from excess PV.

Swop your current accumulator for some thing like this https://www.anglianpumping.com/product/pressure-vessels/300-litre-accumulator-vertical-gws/ Maybe 2 or 3 of them? Actual storage capacity of 300L version is about 150L the rest taken up by bladder and air space.

Your other option This is an accumulator, there.will be a no return valve, between the pump and it. So even without pump on it remains pressurised. So your other option is to replace this with a bigger or several bigger ones. You have a pressure maintained water supply for normal use, it passes through your filter system as normal. Pump fails nothing changes you continue to get filtered water. You could add an alarm - if pressure remains at or below 2.9bar for x minutes send a notification to your phone.

I don't have a storage tank at all. Just a 100L accumulator. For main grid down periods, I have a whole house battery, PV and if all else fails a generator. If pump fails So really didn't see the point of a big storage tank. Unless you constantly change out the water not sure how healthy it would be. In a power cut your UV filter is off, so no long drinking water anyway. If pump does fail, we have bottled water just in case. Our first pump failed after month and that got replaced in 24hrs.

We have carpet and it really kills the performance of the UFH. Best advise is not to let the other half or partner anywhere near the carpet shop. But will have your head on a platter when you choice the best stuff for UFH, because it's not got a luxury feel. My go to advise now is really don't waste your time and money on bedroom UFH. So Tag target - is as low as you can get away with.

Unless you are a 1 bedroom house 150L is too small really. Just on to Cylinder2Go @Nickfromwales go to place they have 3.3m² I believe. I have an Ideal slimline 210L that is 3m².

No immersion should not be involved. Your cylinder is heated slowly over about 40 minutes, heat pump output temperature slowly increases over the heating period, you should be getting a CoP of about 2.5 to 3.5 depending on heat pump and outside temperature. Your UFH should be getting a CoP of 4 to 5, maybe 6 at times, that's the difference in high temperature flow and low temperature. This is mine from the other week. The big peak is DHW heating, the other sides is UFH. The red is flow temperature and green return temperature.

You just need a unvented cylinder - nothing more nothing less. Make sure it's sized for the house and has a big heating coil 3m² or bigger. The heat pump will switch from UFH to cylinder heating via a 3 port change over valve controlled by heat pump. At the same it will bump up the flow temperature.

Heat system comments 8kW heat pump, so will a flow rate of about 1.5 to 2m³/h will be needed, 25mm pipe sounds too small? Have you done a pressure drop calculation, using the internal bore. Why do you need the volumiser? You rarely need a volumiser on UFH as the floor (concrete or screed) will absorb heat very well. Especially if running open loop. Why do you need the check valve on the return to the heat pump? Your expansion vessel and pressure relief should be there. So it's after both the heating and cylinder return.

WC curve is pretty straightforward, use you manual to find the correct things to change as far as settings Curve start at 20 Deg outside set to minimum flow temp to 25 or minimum allowed flow temperature. At -6 outside for radiators set to 45 and UFH set to 35. That's a good enough start point. Now wait for the heating season to start. In rooms with thermostats set to max and with radiators thermal valves set to max. Also set all timers to run 24/7. Then let system run for 24 hrs, if overall house is too hot reduce the flow temp at -6 down, only adjust about half the overshoot, so if target is 21 Deg house and it up to 24, reduce flow by 1.5 degs. other way if too cold. Only adjust once each 24 hrs, until you get where you need to be.

They make nothing out of it, I paid the guy direct, the princely fee of £40.

What venom - your a happy soul! Worked for me, works for the company I used, that's all I can say.

That's easy, you do external insulation and clad. In fact that is way easier than what I did.

Just use this then, your way over thinking. https://www.ecodeck.biz/plastic-shed-bases/

This is how I did mine https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/31017-summer-house-insulation/

Especially if it's timber 6.8m long, saves loads of messing about.

Why bother digging down at all. Just do the same as a garden room. Plastic grids filled with gravel, or slabs set on concrete are options. As well posts set in postcrete. Then build up from there. Pre designed and supplied as a kit garden rooms are great value, the 70mm thick ones are very robust. Just add insulation.

So actually pay for a skilled work force? But isn't the skilled worker buying the materials, on top of this? They should know what they are buying why.

We have a Heta Scanline. It does .

I would always get a stove that took external air for air for primary and secondary air. Otherwise you are heating air then it's being sucked back in to stove as combustion air and cold outside air is being pulled in. Another thing I have found is stoves with plenty of soap stone give off a much more steady flow of heat, slowly heat up, steady output and then slow to cool when fire has stopped.

You may be a doubter, but it was a condition of my well being bored. No water diverter, no well. Company has a near 100% success rate. The guy came around within 10 minutes stated exactly where to drill and said when we would hit water at x metres, and that we were to ignore and continue to get to main reservoir. Was spot on within a metre depth. Also friend is developing on old site which had private water, spent a week trying to find well, water diviner had it located in less than half an hour. From my limited experience it works. So why knock it?