crispy_wafer

if you are speaking to the dno, they may well be fitting 3ph cutouts as standard now, you'd probably only need 100A for domestic use. However as time goes on you may end up with electric vehicles, faster charging may be a nice to have, so being able to pull from the 3 phases would benefit

Pretty much set and forget, set the firmware to update once a month, do a backup once a month, have a spare on the shelf ready to go JIC. Job's a goodun! Needs no extra input from me, just as it should be!!! VLANS set on the l3 switch passed through to the AP's for various subnets work no problem. Pretty happy with it to be honest.

access points on POE switches is how I do it at work. I run Unifi network server as an app on a general purpose utility server VM. Run a mix of AP's across the factory and offices. Switches for what it's worth are all HPE or Aruba

I’ll bag a t shirt or two… 5 years in here, cliche, but want to be in for this winter, well the heating season, I’ve had enough of overwintering in the bungalow. Had ideas at the start, that we’d get watertight then I’d manage trades, but then a financial reality check with how much trades want to charge and a big I can do that attitude! Means I’m doing it myself, the grunt work, like running cables, routing plumbing, installing mvhr, knocking up stud walls, res bar, mf ceilings, battening out for a flat plasterboard surface, boarding ceilings etc. Why the F would I pay someone to do that, I’d only be sat on my arse putting on timber. &nbsp The slowness of my pace has allowed me to do jobs and pay for materials out of my salary, leaving the build fund in the bank for emergencies. Truth be told though, I’m about ready for a holiday!

Lovely job, I like! Suits your place nicely.

Indeed, right of passage for any self builder. Sounds like you have plenty of room to practice.

Christ alive, indeed, yes, I’m sure it can be done cheaper, so what about 20m2 ish, quick search suggests 150 per m3 for crates, but i bet cheaper if bought from your local civils place. Then backfill with pea gravel, hire in a machine for a weekend. Back of hand calcs suggest less than half your 8k, or am i being optimistic

yep this, like most things, would these days cost more in labour than materials.

You'd need to run the pipes into something to allow the rainwater out, so some form of soakaway with crates, terram, and gravel should suffice. What would you deem as expensive? Have building control indicated anything size wise?

Yep graphite stuff will be your friend for this. This is what I have to use on my locks once a year to keep it smooth. https://www.ultion-lock.co.uk/product/ultion-lock-lubricant/

You will be fine, I remember mine being like a scene from a submarine movie when I put water into it the first time... It's all good experience in the bank.

Mine was accessible, but then I was in with the screeders with my wellies on taking pictures and videos of the pour slopping around in it. It was only after a few hours when I went to have a look at my screed did I clock that the temperature had risen and I ought to check the ufh to double check we hadnt done any damage noticed the gauge was now at a higher bar number than I'd left it, so I cracked it a touch to relieve some pressure from the system.

yes, plenty tough! You'll do well to damage them to be honest

keep them pressurised, but when it's walkable, just release some pressure as the heat from curing will cause what nick says.

So the last couple of days I've been busy launching some more plasterboard at the walls. One section slipped when on the packer and caused a gap to open at the board joint, can this be fixed at plaster time, or am I screwed and need to do this again? Another question, whilst I'm happy 'ish boarding a small section of wall with a couple of boards, if I mess up and it tapers towards the wall slightly but still flat it's not the end of the world. However over a long run of 5/6 boards I cannot have this happen as I'll end up with a zigzag run of boards. I'm in need of a tutorial or some tips to stop this happening please. On the plus side, it doesn't sound hollow with all this stuff sticking it to the wall! Trouble is, a bag of powder doesn't go very far

Wider cavity with pumped in eps beads, or wool batts installed as the walls are being built. Edited to add, just check out some recent posts of PIR being installed in cavities, which is the reason for my suggestion of eps beads or wool batts.

coolenergy

Shop around, but consider delivery, convenience and offload too. Our bricks and blocks came from merchants, insulation came from online, but in bulk that negated any delivery, it had to be handballed off the wagon, but it was light so easily managed. Timber from merchants as convenient to pick up in trailer as and when needed. Plasterboard from merchants as I'm buying 20 -30 sheets or so at a time which I can move in 15 minutes or so into the build to keep dry and they hiab off the wagon. Cabling came from screwfix or toolstation whichever cheapest at the time. Bathroom products from online, but most of this gets drop shipped from the manufacturer... By merchants I mean buildbase(huws g) and TP get a feel for the ballpark you ought to paying, ask if needs be. I'm happy to share what I'm paying as a bit and bobber diy builder... I've got nowt to hide or be secretive about, got my big boy pants on and can own the situation if i've paid too much 🤣

Just put a duct in place so the/a cable can be pulled up into the new build.

I foamed with soudal foam and then ran a sticky internal window tape round the perimeter of my first floor junction, then parged over the top.

Just a mild update, I’ve managed to get a couple of windows boarded. Not going to win any competitions for speed, but checking levels/plumb/square and trying to do the best job you can when having a ‘go’ for the first time…. I’m relatively pleased with my first effort 35/36mm is what I ended up settling for, more by a result of the amount of adhesive I slapped on the soffit, rather than calculation. Good excuse to start eating into all those pb offcuts I had stashed away.

Got me curious, so had a search, would you be thinking a product like this? HoneyFoam 600 Insulation Spray Foam Kit | AB Building Products

Crikey, thats a chasing tail job, hope you’ve got it? How likely is that cement going to survive a winter or two? I wonder if tar or something would be better. The cement will hopefully give you a short term answer to if thats the issue

So ingress between the slab and upstand. Any way to expose outside the junction of the slab and where the upstand has been poured onto it, and then tank the bejesus all round it?

yes you could do, probably better than my effort as I used lengths of ufh expansion foam as had loads spare, just gave to the screeders to push into place when the screed was flowing. Screed both sides held it in position, not the most tidy, but it serves the intended purpose.