crispy_wafer

Roof tiles at 16/18 weeks, told my builder and he dithered... put in a materials amendment last week to change to slate (probably for the better)

Yes, this could be the answer, the fear of breaking something though is strong... I've been quoted £7890 to install a Panasonic MDC09J3E5 a quick google suggests this can be had for 2800'ish before VAT, so 5k for signing a bit of paper. Sat in the office, part of me is saying 'yeah, I could do this myself, and save a wedge that could be put to good use elsewhere in the build'. The other half says, 'you haven't got a clue, leave it to the experts, unless you want to be sat in the floor/garden surrounded by bits'.

Here's hoping they put something in place for after next March, I'm all set on ASHP, but no way will I be done in time to submit RHI.

No, I dont think so, check the insulation values, and coatings match what you need. Recticel seems to be flavour of the month round this way due to availability.

May I ask where you are getting the 150mm from at that price please?

Thanks all, I can see what's required, I was try to get an image in my mind of how it goes together when I've got to get insulation between the trusses.

I was sat here thinking that there's not much detail in my post... Anyways, it's a pretty standard rectangle, there's dormer windows pretty much opposite each other, with a pretty standard build up. Tiles, latts, felt, truss, insulation, more insulation etc.

Attic trusses went on this morning, left the joiners and the builder to it as I had to pop into work. One thing was mentioned before I left - Diagonal bracing. Looks like I'll need to deal with this as neither of them appeared to think it was their jobs... They were cracking on with the longitudinal bracing when I left. I've had a looksie at nhbc and various 2d drawings, and kind of understand what needs to be done. The drawing from the truss company was in 2d also. Anybody got a picture they can share that features diagonal bracing, I'd be most grateful, even better if you have dormers. Then I need to work out how this is going to affect the insulation detail.

Sorry missed the arrow of the photo, that's great. The terms you provided helped me find a drawing which shows what I'm looking at. Yes, it's an existing system from old bungalow to septic tank. I will be attempting to intercept the clay pipe and tap the new build drainage into it. Easier said than done I suspect.

I need to get one of these to connect up new house to existing soil drainage - already discussed with inspector. What's it called please, before I go pestering the civils co,

Just browsing a 2nd's site for insulation, I notice they sell non foil faced PIR boards... What's the use case for these? If they came up in the sizes I needed could I use these as floor insulation?

hoping prices drop back, I'm in the middle of a build. Planning on getting watertight then shutting the door for 6 months whilst I keep an eye on materials that will be needed from there on in.

Yes and no to the parge coat. Not fully decided... I need to look in more detail, if it something that I can DIY or am I gonna create a big mess then require a pro to come and sort me out. I'm confident enough to give stuff a go it's just biting the bullet and going for it. I've seen products like blowerproof and passive purple, but does this stuff actually work and provide longevity or will it just dry up and end up cracking and splitting a mastic would in a few years, i'd like to think it does work, but there be sharks out there, selling stuff to the uninitiated. Spoke to the builder about the tony tray idea, he liked the idea, however, I'm not going to end up in a world of hurt later with rotten joists by doing this am I? I guess that's where the breather membrane comes into it's own? But if something can breathe how can it keep draughts out? I guess all this has been done to death in the past - I'm a newbie and love to ask how and why...

As above It's good you've got contact with builders, get a gut feel for who you feel you can work with, and communicate with on a regular basis. Be prepared to wait though. 1) Get planning submission sorted, busy builders like at the moment seem keen to spend time with clients once planning is passed and Building regs drawings are in place, that gives the reassurance that they are not spending valuable time building up quotes when the order may no be fulfilled. Talking to my builder I'm getting an appreciation for how much time they have to spend off the tools to go out customer facing with future customers, then building up an estimate, dealing with suppliers etc etc. It's not as easy as us customers think... Especially timing everything to run as smooth as possible. Add in material shortages and merchants being run off their feet too, material price rises are also causing a concern with customers aswell. - once planning has passed, and only if you haven't already you may need to submit additional information regards window colours, brick types etc 2) Architect will have contacts for an SE, again the SE may take a little while. Another one of those jobs I thought would be wham bam thankyou. Some can be quite steady. 3) Submit building regs drawings and detail to the LA with SE report, your builder ought to be able to use these drawings for dimensions and working out qty's. All the best.

Thanks for the suggestions above, ought to mention it's a brick and block construction, airtightness isn't going to be up there with the best, but I'm striving to do the best I can. We did look at Manthorpe joist seals, but my pozi's are quite beefy at 122 by 300@400, told the manufacturer I didn't want any bounce, so these are probably overkill... The joist seals are 120. They will do special's if you ask, and was quoted about 680 for 48 from the BM, but my builder has everyone lined up on a conveyer and the joists are being installed next week, so not much time to act. My fault really for not communicating effectively and expecting stuff to be available off the shelf so to speak.

Anybody have recommendations for choice of membrane to use when employing the Tony tray method of maintaining airtightness around first floor joists. Many thanks.

@Faz Loving your pictures and progress, you are a way ahead of me and your pictures are really helping me visualise what I'll be needing to do later on. Your insulation between the rafters, are you insulating right down the attic truss void aswell? Curious, as I've not decided as yet. Good work sir.

Quick question. I'm using PIR cavity wall sheets in the cavity for my build, can this be used in the cavity wall behind the stove and chimney? Suddenly dawned on me whilst I was setting out for tomorrows job. I would have thought so but was unsure...

I really liked @joe90 brick detail for his window cills, I've got some pictures/ideas for the brick detail at the gables, and eaves. But am easily swayed, I'm like a kiddie in a sweetshop at the minute. I'd love to see more pictures of lovely brickwork detail.

Yes, I like that, and it all works together really well I think. Well done. I especially like the window cill brick detail, I will show that to my builder, that design could well save me some pennies too against the cost of cast cills. Can I ask how the window frame is sealed against the angled brick in the Cill?

Yep, have samples, bricks, tiles etc and to be fair we like the contrasts between the bricks, tiles and windows. just not with the lighter mortar as this was a suggestion made to us yesterday. It's the mortar colour which has thrown me TBH, perfectly happy with the 'as mixed' with our local sand colour. Myself and the good lady want to see it all together before deciding on the lighter colour or not. Good info on the cills, - Thankyou.

We've settled on a facing brick TBS Farmhouse antique, builder has come up with an idea that the brick would suit a light mortar, which I agree with - however It hadn't even crossed my mind to stray from grey... Additionally we have specced Anthracite on the windows, black rainwater, and a dark grey slate effect clay tile. I had seen some rather fetching cast cill's and I'd found a manufacturer that will do these in Anthracite too, so have priced these up and I'm ready to pull the trigger. Under DPC we've got blue's. Now I've got the picture in my mind, the bricks work well with the windows and roof covering, it seems a fair contrast not too overpowering in favour of one colour, or the other, the cills i'm 70/30 in favour of... However adding white/lighter mortar to the mix adds another level. It doesnt help that my elevations on the drawings are in the wrong colours either. For what it's worth the building will be set in a rural, woodland location, no other properties in the same field of view so have nothing to contrast against. Does anybody have this combination of colours on the go, or even just antique brick and light mortar? I'd love to see pictures, so I can fill my mind with other possibilities. Many thanks Marek

@Olly P That's Beautiful, well done. Mine will look close to this, although the glazing company have suggested the triangle piece will need an upstand so the horizontal bar wont quite be at the angle. Also interested in insulating the steels question, but also the detail for the bit between floors, I cant quite visualise in my mind how the pieces will go together.

gotcha, Thankyou, pictures are perfect

Sat in work and a daft question entered my head, it not important right now, but I cant work out what's the right way to go about? So, DPM, does it go down before block internal walls get built or after? If it goes down before then it's gonna get shredded and ripped up, so has gotta go down after , right? Internal block walls will have a dpc built into them then you dpm each room connecting to the DPC layer separately? - Is that right? Block+Beam floor if it makes any difference.