crispy_wafer

Floorplanner dot com, found it very useful in being able to mock up in 2d and visualise and walkround in 3d, even lay out furniture and decor if you've got enough time...

I was up there yesterday as the joiners were hand cutting the roof, and it's gonna be a tall old ceiling. Perhaps it may be too tall. I might try to bring the ceiling height down a bit, but leave the window full height, I dont know yet, need to ponder a bit more, pick up a few ideas... And, I wish I'd have thought about adding a balcony at design so the first floor room could walk out... Maybe next time.

I think at 750 you wont have any problems - below the frost line, mine will be laying in the b+b void at ground level close to external wall. I'm not sure it will freeze down there but NHBC quidelines state adequate precautions when above 750 8.1.3 Water services and supply - NHBC Standards 2021 NHBC Standards 2021 (nhbc-standards.co.uk)

I've read somewhere before that insulation is required if within a certain distance of an external wall. So think I will get some more insulation and insulate the lot as I feed it though, then maybe squirty foam the ends of the pipe to seal it up.

I've decided to relocate our incoming water pipe to another spot in the build. Didn't particularly like what the builder had done, pipe slightly kinked as it bends up to the floor. so have decided to take the opportunity before I go any further to expose the pipe and re-lay to a better place. I've got good access still through the b+b flooring so no great issues, It's not terminated at the mains connection yet so an easy pull out. I've got access to the pipe, currently it's not ducted under the b+b floor however it has some insulation. If I duct and insulate under the floor, what kind of ducting is acceptable, and what can I use to ensure I get a nice smooth bend on the pipe when it rises up through the floor, I hazard that as I'd still need to insulate within the ducting? If left to my own devices I'd probably use some drainage pipes and a bend, is that an acceptable trick of the trade? I've got a coil of blue ducting for outside the building to the mains stop on the property. This wont accept the pipe and insulation though...

Might be a daft Q, but does anyone know if the VAT is recoverable on aggregates when used during the course of the build?

Re: Steels, Same two storey affair here. Our steel fabricators managed mine, thankfully! We had two columns bolted to the foundations, these were about first floor height, then a cross bar was bolted between the two (goal post setup), these had plates welded on top, two more steels were then lifted onto the first floor deck and man handled onto the plates and bolted down. The angular pieces were also man handled into place and bolted together, and a steel ridge beam was then bolted to the top of the gable. Hopefully this picture (not the best) gives an idea,

Looking to go with a glazed gable here, local company to me provided a quote, prices for the gable below. All alumininium windows, including installation eye wateringly 37k, need to re-evaluate all the other windows. Getting some other quotes off plan at the moment.

Question regarding the installation order as I'm not sure. Should the Acoustic insulation be installed before routing electrics and plumbing, or after?

Ok cool, I understand the purpose of the 50mm airgap. Judging between the indicative U Values I'm not sure I'd notice the difference between 50mm and 70mm insulation on top of the PIR so I'll save the money up front, and put it towards a new tool. Putting some short precut lengths of batten in at strategic intervals (Joins and board centres) was an idea I was mulling over too. I've bought some of the gapotape to have a play with too. Watched some youtube vid, and whilst it's expensive, I think it will make the job a little easier and cleaner.

Rafter depth is at 220mm which has left me in a pickle, drawings stated 170mm to fill with 120mm PIR. I've already bought the PIR based on the drawing so intend on making use of it, but have a little more room to fill so may add some more insulation in between the rafters. Had a play with ubakus to get some idea of any improvement. I'm now thinking of putting some frametherm slab on top of the PIR as this seems best bang for buck, I think I can make use of 50mm or 70mm. Drawings state a 50mm airgap. Typically is this airgap between the insulation and the membrane, or is it between insulation and tile? Many thanks.

I'd go block+Beam, DPM, insulation, Membrane, UFH, Screed Clean up the block and beam, and grout it, sweep/Scrape it so no nasty sharp bits or lumps of gobbo left behind from the builder, when happy lay down the DPM, insulation nice and tight, tape up joints, next layer of plastic sheet then clip in the ufh. Oh and Perimeter insulation needs adding in too. and someone told me to add some expansion strips in doorways for some man made breaks in the screed. Need further advice on that as unsure.

Yeah, I'd expect something on your buildings regs drawings to be honest, but even that could be a standard figure rather than specifically tailored to your site. Dont stress give them a call Monday morning, or give building control a quick ring, they'll give you a typical number where load bearing strata may be found in your area, then once you think you are ready they'll be out to investigate and give a green light before concrete pour.

Should I fit something to close the cavity round windows when building with a full fill cavity, BC said no need, however I seen other builds with it closed off so thinking for the sakes of a few pounds it would tidy it up. Also, where the Insulation comes down the angled roof truss to meet the wall insulation. I get that this butts up to the wall cavity insulation, then we seal and try to make airtight, does anything need to go in between to two insulation boards?

Indeed, yes it does, and a cost implication too, I could have done the old get on with route and face the consequences should anyone notice, but I just wanted to go by the book as I don't need the potential hassle should anything arise, I also had an amendment to window frame colour to include and a varcon for solar panels, so I needed to be in contact with the planners anyway.

Originally after Rivius, so a slate lookalike too at a reasonable price point. I'll spend the extra and be done with it. Availability, plus the look of it, I think I wouldnt be doing the build justice if we turned a blind eye on this detail. The roofer popped round with a tile, same dimensions and style close to that as the rivius but my wife and I both agreed it was not to be. Also I think I prefer the thinner profile of slate compared to the clay or concrete alternatives. I think in hindsight the delay has done me a favour.

Roof tiles at 16/18 weeks, told my builder and he dithered... put in a materials amendment last week to change to slate (probably for the better)

Yes, this could be the answer, the fear of breaking something though is strong... I've been quoted £7890 to install a Panasonic MDC09J3E5 a quick google suggests this can be had for 2800'ish before VAT, so 5k for signing a bit of paper. Sat in the office, part of me is saying 'yeah, I could do this myself, and save a wedge that could be put to good use elsewhere in the build'. The other half says, 'you haven't got a clue, leave it to the experts, unless you want to be sat in the floor/garden surrounded by bits'.

Here's hoping they put something in place for after next March, I'm all set on ASHP, but no way will I be done in time to submit RHI.

No, I dont think so, check the insulation values, and coatings match what you need. Recticel seems to be flavour of the month round this way due to availability.

May I ask where you are getting the 150mm from at that price please?

Thanks all, I can see what's required, I was try to get an image in my mind of how it goes together when I've got to get insulation between the trusses.

I was sat here thinking that there's not much detail in my post... Anyways, it's a pretty standard rectangle, there's dormer windows pretty much opposite each other, with a pretty standard build up. Tiles, latts, felt, truss, insulation, more insulation etc.

Attic trusses went on this morning, left the joiners and the builder to it as I had to pop into work. One thing was mentioned before I left - Diagonal bracing. Looks like I'll need to deal with this as neither of them appeared to think it was their jobs... They were cracking on with the longitudinal bracing when I left. I've had a looksie at nhbc and various 2d drawings, and kind of understand what needs to be done. The drawing from the truss company was in 2d also. Anybody got a picture they can share that features diagonal bracing, I'd be most grateful, even better if you have dormers. Then I need to work out how this is going to affect the insulation detail.

Sorry missed the arrow of the photo, that's great. The terms you provided helped me find a drawing which shows what I'm looking at. Yes, it's an existing system from old bungalow to septic tank. I will be attempting to intercept the clay pipe and tap the new build drainage into it. Easier said than done I suspect.