crispy_wafer

Next question regards the installation/overlaying of the final layer of insulation and plasterboard. There's going to be no purpose built service void, as I'll use the roof space and angled voids for services. I've got 60mm PIR + PB to go up. What fixings would/could I use to fix the though the insulation to the timbers, then the plasterboard through the insulation to the timbers? Or is there a better way?

I think the first thing on there that leaps out, would be the Kingspan cavity wall insulation, Being honest with you, that unless your laying the blocks and fitting it yourself dont bother you'll be disappointed with the builders/labourers attempt at it. It's expensive stuff and to see it installed incorrectly will make your head wobble. It's an extension so should be fairly simple to keep on top of the workmanship, but still... Full fill Beads, or batts at 140mm shouldnt be too bad. What's the rest of building like? If you can, get a bit more insulation in the floor. How are you intending to heat the space?

Probably done myself no good whatsoever and have got myself a little confused reading various threads about roof buildups, condensation, vcl's. As was built by the contractor my roof buildup is as follows Dormer roof Slates batten cromar vent 3 membrane 225mm deep rafters. Now I've started filling the rafters from the wallplate all the way to ridge with PIR leaving as recommended a ventilation gap. On the underside where the PIR is flush with the rafters I've foam filled where necessary and taped over joints, and taped over the rafters to the next board. Where the insulation meets at the ridge, I've joined the best I can, foamed and taped over. I'm due to add a layer of insulation, and plasterboard to the underside of the rafters. The inner layer of insulation I was going to fit from wall plate level to ridge level again. Plasterboard will be following the room outline. I'll be attempting to fit an avcl at the wallplate junctions and where the first and last truss meet the blockwork in an attempt at mitigating draughts, and leakage. Is it worth installing the vcl all over the insulation. Are there any other obvious problems with my approach? Thanks in advance.

I'd snap their hands off and have it away

I'd second having a look at Origin.

Cheers, Would the screed be laid upto dpc/door opening level then, or a little below? This could be a depth of 70mm or so if I go with 150mm insulation. Planning on liquid screen, I guess there's a point at which screed can be too thick?

Bit of a dilemma regarding the depths of insulation and screed depths for my ground floor, I'm looking to start purchasing insulation in dribs and drabs whilst some funds allow. Floor build up is Block and Beam, the door openings and DPC are set on 1 concrete block above this, so approx 225mm I think. Originally I'd thought/planned on 150mm PIR, then screed. What sort of screed depth? 60mm? Many thanks

For ducting we used rigid 110mm underground drainage pipe as the duct, 28mm (i think) armorflex insulation around 25mm mpde pipe. No bends as it was a straight run, I've got an existing water supply though to the bungalow on site which is going to be demolished, so will be teeing off that when the time comes. I'm just gonna do what most do round this way, and just crack on with, the water supplier will be non the wiser.

My noob question of the day to those with more experience than I. Thinking about the plumbing and concealing of the pipes. Planning on having plaster over the block work rather than boarding. Most of my plumbing will be vertical up to the floor void, horizontal to where it needs to go and then dropped to location. How best to conceal the pipework on the drops? What's the go to method? I'm assuming chase the wall a bit and recess, clip and plaster? I'd like to avoid boxing wherever possible...

Unburnt fuel in the morning, I'd open the bottom vent a touch more. Like said above, with Solid fuel air from the bottom will help with combustion. With our Dunsley we tend to turn the vent down to 3 or 4... But each stove is different and have their own characteristics in terms of burn rate. What are you burning? Is it solid like anthracite or an ovoid type. We always had an issue with solid anth, it burns when fresh but requires fully open vents later on and even then it leaves lots of clinkers behind, I had to burn it with a log or two to get the most out of it. Also check around you may have pipe stats somewhere that control the CH pump operation, I'm no heating engineer, but i'd expect you'd have one to set the pump going when water reaches the desired temp, and one which shuts the pump off when the water temp drops below a certain temp.

Hi All, Trying to get me head around the detail for insulating dormer window cheeks. Construction build up is (from out to in) OSB then a 5*2 frame. I'll be using kooltherm boards, Should I treat this like other roof detail and leave a gap between the insulation and the OSB board, or should I fit the insulation tight up to the board seal it in and tape over, I'll be insulating the inside too. Many thanks. Marek

I've had quotes ranging from 650 to 900 over about 50m2 installed, I'm finding anything Aluclad timber is at the top end of the pricing.

Had a delivery of 30 sheets of 120mm this week from sec&co, to cut and fit between rafters, was concerned about their delivery as they make a big thing of double decker sized wagons... Anyway all went well, we handballed the insulation off the lorry, the stuff for the most part is good, 5 or 6 sheets are slightly concave on the edges, but my festool will sort that out. As a test run, all positive, so will be ordering more soon, and they seem to be back to adding stuff to their inventory again.

Ecowin?

Starting to lose the will with windows. Just blowing off a bit of steam thread. All 3g Local supplier 29k for Smart systems Alitherm 600 plus Curtain walling, and doors for 29k Velfac v200e 36k for the same Idealcombi futura+ 41k and just had another from Zylefenster for 46k Had Idealcombi round for a chat, when there initial quote was 35k, turns out they'd made a mistake on installation costs to the tune of 6k... Liked the windows and the system to be honest, and at 35k was ready to sign on the dotted line, just seemed to be everything I wanted and more... Going to look at some Velfac next week I hope if time allows. Not mega impressed with published U values for Smarts Alitherm 600, I havent found any frame values however they mention values with glass so suspect the glazing is making up for the deficiancies of the frame. I guess there's a difference in window systems in that list so not exactly like for like. Anyone with experience of the above systems like to chime in with positives and negatives of their windows. Going round in circles with the decision process, money is a major driver, however I want windows that perform reasonably well, but this isnt a passive build by any means, I don't want to spend a wedge and be disappointed, they've got to look acceptable, be fitted well and more importantly last, I don't want to replacing windows in my lifetime. Looking for something that I can get and forget about, I very much doubt I'll be sat in my room thinking I'm glad I spent xxxx on brand b when brand a cost less and perform almost as well in the real world, I'll be too interested in the next project, as will Mrs CW. Chances are I could have upvc and be quite happy. With windows U values am I venturing down a rabbit hole of diminishing returns for my cash. arghhh. my head is spinning, and I'm no closed to deciding on windows that I was 6 months ago.

I actually tried to delete the cartoon plan image as that's not how we've actually built it, I used a bit of creative license in construction you could say... There are no tiles on the front of the terrace, just a flat roof with a fall into the gutter. The ground floor windows look low but we've added a course or two above the soldiers, no heights mentioned or restrictions on our plans so the added ceiling height is nice. @Stewpot Like the idea of the outer posts 'floating' with the strength and rigidity coming from the inboard end. I'll mention this to the BI when he visits and see how receptive they are to the idea. This could also work with the deck frame that I will put on the waterproof layer below @Faz Thanks, gives me confidence, if the above idea doesnt pass muster.

I've got an in roof terrace/balcony thing going into my build - no plan other than the drawing. Thought it was a nice idea, but struggling with thoughts on how to secure the frame and balustrading without puncturing the flat roof below. So far we've built up the dormer opening and prepared the flat roofing, this will be covered and topped with a floating deck frame, which is likely to be aluminium or composite. Building control will be out after roofing so I will check with them, but in the meantime thoughts are eating away at me. Now I'm not sure if I will need to secure the deck frame, if so, to what and how, whilst maintaining water tightness. Next is the question of securing the balustrading all brackets I've seen involve attaching at the base, I dont think attaching to the floating deck would be sufficient to maintain safety. So I'm thinking that securing to the masonry below the gutter would be better but am struggling to find brackets that are shaped in such a fashion to step out. Wonder if anyone on here has any thoughts, come across this issue before?

Looks nice, and practical too, however for me, i'd Install a full fat 8" liner, that way you'd be covered if you ever changed your mind. Wont cost you an awful lot more in materials either.

I dont have a lot to add, other than twinwall flue allows you to router a lot closer to combustable materials, this usually means an extra couple of inches on the O/D though - which could be worth bearing in mind if there are obstacles en-route. There are some rules regarding number of bends too. Give consideration to sweeping too.

Quick reply One window is a specialist job, no question about that, and am will absolutely pay for fitting on that, and that does require a lift etc. The rest of the windows are your run of the mill std casement upvc type affair largest being 1900*1050 down to 600*1050 - 12 windows in all, then a back door and 2 sets of french doors. Maybe I'm being a tight arse, and expecting champagne for beer money. Happy to be told to reign expectations in, that's the market rate, and actually a decent deal... Example

@JulianB that helps a lot. I see the tools are pricey, even 2nd hand, but there must be a good chance of getting most of the investment back when finished with it. I take a bit of confidence in seeing that jobbing plumbers are now starting to adopt the method.

Thx, I'll given them a schedule, will be interesting to see what comes back?

Showing my lack of knowledge in this area... Seems like I'm getting charged an arm and a leg for installation on my quotes, I reckon people see self build and start assuming 'loads a money', am I allowed to fit my own windows in a self build or does the job need certifying by an accredited installer?

@JulianB Without taking the thread off topic too much, how did you find the pressfit tool, did it do everything you wanted, any shortcomings? Did you use copper and press for the whole project or did you revert to pex for the runs between endpoints?

Just planning the underfloor ducting for the log burner, I'm thinking of doing it in plastic however at some point as it rises through the b+b floor I guess it needs to change to something non combustable. Would plastic be ok to the top of the screed, then the air feed kit from there to the stove, or would it be best to use galv steel duct from the underfloor plastic duct to the top of the screed?