crispy_wafer

I've got a small bit of roof that spans a bedroom and small bathroom, the bedroom will have a standard light fitting, bathroom I think at this stage will have downlights of some description. I'm planning to fit a vapour barrier on the underside, then batten out for services. What sort of depth to make the void? Floor to bottom of wall plate is about 2350. For the barrier, poly sheet ok, or is there a better way, I think I'm likely to put holes in the poly sheet...

Ok, so the ridgebeam, supporting a cut roof over a high pitched ceiling. Pic below is probably better than my wording. I've got insulation between the rafters, cut to the top flange of the steel, but not over.

Just an update to this, made up some simple brackets out of 18mm ply and notched out the end. Screwed to the rafters to hold lower part of the OSB in place. Managed to get 8 boards trimmed, lifted and fitted this weekend, slow going but pleased.

Morning, I've got a steel ridge beam and two angled supports for a gable. I've got a fair pile of PIR offcuts, can I just cut them to shape and fill the steel, then insulate over before boxing in? Or would I need to leave an air gap.

It's been a few years (10), but I purchased about 200 ish laurels from beechwood, via ebay at the time, all bare rooted. No problems whatsoever. I just heeled them into the vege patch in bundles when they arrived, and transplanted them when time allowed.

I've been following a flowscreed company on facebook, they regularly post pictures of work they do, nearly all of the pictures are new build and the screed is getting pumped in with the stud wall framework already in place.

I like these idea's, simple but effective way of supporting and holding the board in place. I've got some scaffold towers set up in there at the moment so I'll see how easy it is to manhandle the OSB.

Morning all, I've been tasked with bracing out a high pitched ceiling with 11mm OSB, the highest point is about 4m (seemed like a great idea at the time...) I've read on here that a few of you have used pb lifts and swear by them, do you think it'd be feasible to use one to lift OSB. ta Marek

Sorry, just doing my usual - lack of detail. bpcventilation the mvhr guys.

sorry, my fault, I didn't give any context for use, I'm temporarily removing the bracing on the roof trusses as the spacing on the bracing is too tight between the uprights and chords So I can fit my inner layer of insulation.

Leaving this here if anyone is looking to save a few £'s at BPC

Any tried and tested recommendations for multitool blades for wizzing through nails? Loads on Amazon, which makes the choice too difficult... Dewalt fitment,

Think I'm going to lift and put some sand down, I've got a pile of soft sand leftover so that'll do, and as it was only a couple of boards I put down it's no biggie. It's all benefit of experience, which I don't have so not going to take the chance.

I've grouted the blocks to the beams, maybe I was a bit stingy over the top of the blocks in some places...

Managed to sort out the DPM, now I'm back with another Q I've trial fitted a couple of the PIR boards on the block and beam floor, I've noticed a little rocking up and down when walking over them, the beams are slightly higher than the blocks and where the board finishes mid span, there is no support. Is there a tried and tested method of resolving this as I expect this will cause an issue later on with the screed if not dealt with? It's 150mm PIR so not exactly flexible. I'd though about a sand/cement layer, maybe thin slithers of insulation board, or timber as a packer under the edge...

Well, applying heat works a treat, a quick blow over with my gas torch and it's stickier than a sticky thing and the dpm has bonded nicely. This heavy dpm is under the insulation, but was planning something over the top of the insulation too, i was told something about screed eating the insulation and stopping the insulation from floating when the screed is poured.

Thankyou. That toolstation tape is the stuff I had, it wouldnt even stick to my fingers, maybe I had a bad batch, or it was too cold or combination... I'll experiment with a heat gun on it and see if it improves matters.

Need some advice on tape, as the tape we have wont hold, A quick play in the build tonight and it just peels straight off when overlapping the dpm to dpc.

Question on how we join the DPC to DPM. And is it important if DPM goes over or under the DPC? Build up is Block and beam floor, block work inner walls with DPC sticking out about 12 inches in places. My floor insulation has arrived and is in a nice big pile, so In order to reduce said pile I was thinking I could get the floor swept, DPM down and start laying out the insulation, or more likely I could task Mrs Wafer with the job whilst I play with stud walls. I've got a couple of rolls of heavy DPM, loads of double sided butyl tape and plenty of tape for the joins ready to go, but as usual when it comes to the finer points questions start getting asked. So over or under, is the question?

I would have thought if it's flat board type then yes it could be used elsewhere, I'd have thought the Dimensions and facing play more of a part are where it can and cant be used, and whether it performs to manufacturers claims. What areas of your barn conversion will need insulating?

haha yes that's what we are paying, all the yards round me are at that price, if not more, in the end though that's all I needed so that's what I paid. It's bracing for the inside of the cathedral ceiling, otherwise I'd have swerved it. Thanks for the advice though ? He who has little knowledge spend lot of time fixing to make things work!

Attached is what I've just paid from my local timber yard, most of it turned up as C24, However it's got to point now where I've just spent a load on timber and mvhr ducting, should keep me busy for a couple of months before I need to spend again! (I only get a 10-14 hrs a week on the build, Christmas/new years week is going to be an absolute godsend for me). I just need a clear plan so I can crack on and chip away. It's come to something when my light reading is the LABC warranty handbook and scouring buildhub for pictures of how it's done. It's all about the finer points.

Thanks Faz, 4*2 is what I'm going with,. I'm sure I could work with the metal partitions after a bit of a play, but just feel more comfortable with timber.

Quick question, I've got a few stud walls to constuct. Most of them run perpendicular from a block wall. Should the end studs be fixed to the masonry, or is good practice to have them sit off the block work by a few mm?

As others have said, it'd be nice if the boards were butted together, but it's not an insurmountable problem. Get a foam gun, get some foam and some manky clobber on, and fill the gaps up yourself - good excuse to get hands on and do a bit. Start at one end of the space and work your way down to the other end. Might take you an hour or so, but it'll be worth it. Trim off the next day or in a few hours then tape it over, It'll then be ready for your foil, and next layer of board. May as well make a decent job of it, even if its going to be hidden behind tape, foil, board etc.