crispy_wafer

OSB + PB, or just Fermcell, skim it and swallow the cost. Make it a nice space to use and work in, and give the walls the ability to hold tools/bike racks/ladder hangers.

I wonder if Ubiquiti would have something, without looking I dont know. But for the record I've just put in a couple of Wave Pro @ work to bridge a LAN to two in buildings that are on different sides of a road. Most bridge units use POE so the wired LAN is made use of for more than just comms.

looks logical, the cone chimney adapter seals the flue and directs any falling soot or detritus into the fire chamber. Regards smell, I'd probably make sure you have a flue temp sensor, and make sure there's a carbon monoxide sensor in the room. My stove smells a bit if I'm burning too hot for too long.

Dunno, hows your risk appetite? Check Ali express, i need to get some blinds for a triangle window. Custom size, and angled drops etc etc. They all Look very similar to ones being showcased on expensive uk websites. You do lose installer backup though if that’s important, for me I’m not bothered and take most things on at my own risk.

Without knowing the correct way yet…. I’d either fix my top u channel through plasterboard to the mf5 if there is a piece in the right place, or drop a piece of ply off-cut above the plasterboard to fix my top u channel too, it would mean putting the ply onto the plasterboard as the ceiling is going up, but where there’s a will there’s a way.

Shame about the existing 450, I know the image isnt to scale, but my thoughts before seeing the ‘existing’ text was spin it around, get it in line with the 300 and stp, have the two outlets from the house come in on side branches, with the main through flow run straight through from the 300 to the STP. Regards the tag on the treatment plant thread, Sorry, I’m still knocking my way through the build so it isnt in use yet.

CT1 or adhesive and a bit of batten straddling the trim, screwed to the wall above and below, until the adhesive is set, - The batten wont touch the wall, and you will need longish screws. Fill holes and make good afterwards.

You have a right to be concerned, but does it really affect you? Personally, I'd just let them get on with it. Like the fella on a motorcycle wizzing past me at 90mph plus (guess), concerned - yes, affect me - no, let em get on with it.

Love it, well done.

possibly yes, certainly integrated cisterns and wall hung do require a touch more labour and faff to get right.

I guess it depends on the damage, repair could be just tape, or cutting a patch of membrane to cover the damage and tape up the edges. Breather membrane tape is available, cant advise of which would be best for you though.

https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/accesso-ic110-450mm-single-piece-adoptable-inspection-chamber-1500mm-invert.html?ppc_keyword=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22291034282&gclid=CjwKCAjwi4PHBhA-EiwAnjTHuYGbRQ2uc_O_SIFjCE4ec5OjeIdvk3QPTyu2zdoLGYQ9ZLhafKKjghoCK5gQAvD_BwE

Oh and take pictures/measurements of where the runs are in case you need to do any work on the floor nearby

If you are unable to fit the cabling now, fetch some 32mm ducting from somewhere and lay that, feed a drawstring so you can pull through the cable later. Lay it as straight as you can.

Oh yes, I like this, genius.

as above, we did, 600mm above an open internal drainage board drain that runs through the land. Having multiple floors for refuge in case of that 1 in a 100 year event also helps.

You've pretty much just described my install... 1ph to crappy bungalow, 1ph to new build, 1ph unused, but it will be a big garage with living space above. I guess it comes down to metering and the properties are they staying in your name, or are you looking to sell one?

I bought a few of them steel rectangular, slot together jobbies of FB marketplace, not suitable in anyway shape or form for trade use, but for DIY use and hedge trimming up to about 2.5m platform height they are perfick! £200 or thereabouts Easily create a platform long enough for a 3.9m board to span. If you want to go any higher than that forget it get a proper one like those above!

Polypipe, hit your local civils place, often worth their weight in gold through experience and advice.

did you try or think about what @Nickfromwales suggested eps at the bottom of the cavity, xps board against the outer leaf to insulate against the cold bridges then fill with concrete.

use a 135 junction and shove a 45 in the end of it.

I did similar, kept accessible, because I’ve put stop taps on the two feeds off the main. Saves me having to go out to the road to kill the individual tails. I’m in the process(2 years, because not important just yet) of building up a chamber, it’ll be something along the lines of 700*1250 ish so I can get into it should I ever need to. There’s probably a better way, maybe theres a manifold for mdpe which could simplify matters, haven’t looked tbh.

Just be mindful, I wasnt... With trusses you may get cross bracing included! makes insulating a pain in bottom as the bracing can get in the way, it can be done though, just takes a little more time.

I’d say that he’s right to concerned that screw/nail holes can be affected by rain/moisture, no different to the board joints really, so put a small dob of d4 over the nail/screw will help. A floor scraper when watertight to lift the foam.

AICO, should cover most, if not all needs