elite

Agree on mix and match if you are on a budget - though I do like being able to manage all my ubiquiti stuff in the one place Ubiquiti do the Standard 24 PoE (usw-24-poe) which is a fair bit cheaper, than the pro, but it is limited to 1G SFP and only PoE+ rather Also keep in mind not all ports on a PoE switch always have PoE

I think default holiday temp is the frost temp - this can be adjusted up to 17 in optional settings - info in the manual

Nothing bad about having a switch, I'd have it at the router end though and pull two cables for the added flexibility. I always advise pulling at least two ethernet cables if you are going to the trouble of pulling one

Do as @oliwoodings suggests, but in an ideal world you would avoid the daisy chaining of the switch / router, and run two cables from the back room to the router

If your CF WIFI router is doing the routing / DHCP etc, you will want to do: Modem -> Router -> Switch -> back room I'd run CAT6 cable (solid copper not copper coated aluminium). If the cable is being run externally you will need external rated stuff. I'd run at least two cables - one for access point and one for the PC If the proposed access point in the back room is going to be powered by PoE you would need a switch that supports this, and provides the PoE standard used by the access point

I went with Aico, but I did get staff discount through someone that works there

I'm two storey, with kitchen open to lounge and diner. I've done heat alarm in kitchen, smokes in lounge and first floor landing. Additional smoke in snug which is accessed via the lounge. I've gone central-ish positioning on the ceiling for all of them. Don't recall a reg for room size, but I think they are meant to be within 7m of the door of each habitable room, but obviously not applicable if you're open plan

Not a spark, but you should be able to do this with a grid 2 module yoke, wiring same as previous

I went with AT from jupiter blue, but I don't think they go that big. Not fitted yet, so can't comment if it was worth it

I've seen this before where switches with indicator lamps are installed on switches. Guess it could be a faulty/dirty switch or neutral is being switched rather than the line

TV, Games Console, AV amp, streaming box. or as you say gives the option for HDMI over Cat6 if you wanted to move all the additional boxes to the network cab. That said a switch can often get you out of a hole if you haven't run enough In one of my bedrooms there are two potential TV positions, so I have cables running to both, one set I have just left in the cavity to be utilised as and when I change the room configuration

On my renovation I've gone with the ubiquiti in wall access points rather than ceilings, which for me are more discrete The ubiquiti access points will plug direct into any POE switch providing the switch is capable of providing the POE spec required. I am currently running off a cheap netgear You will need a way of managing your access points, I do this via a cloud key, but you can install the software on Windows etc, or I beleive their routers have this built in. The benefit of going all ubiquiti - switch, router, access points is that you will get an entire overview of your network from the user interface. I'm sure there are other mesh networks that are of a similar quality, probably for a cheaper price and others will advise on their experiences Notes: I'd consider going to 4 cat6 behind the TVs depending on your needs - maybe only main TV position needed? I'd have at least 2 cat 6 to living, lounge, kitchen, study and garage Don't forget to provision for WIFI externally, especially if not in a good network area It is a lot easier and cheaper to run extra cables now if you think you might ever configure your rooms differently Don't forget provision for terestrial TV / radio and satellite if required

I'd go with @RichardL's suggestion, but I guess it depends on what is below

I've just replaced a bitumen roof on the chicken run with Suntuf corrugated polycarbonate sheets, they seem better than the really cheap ones, though they do need a fair amount of support

Thanks - much appreciated

On my renovation most of the ground floor is concrete, however there is a 3m x 3m area which was quarry tiles straight on to earth, which now the stairs are out I need to fill. What should I be aiming for, current thoughts are: Dig down 250mm 100mm subbase - MOT type 1?? 50mm sand DPM 100mm concrete I intend to mix on site with a mixer The entire floor will have self leveller applied after the new concrete has cured Questions: Does this sound sensible? Do I need rebar? I have ommitted insulation as the rest of the floor doesn't have any - is this a mistake? I'm not sure how to lap the DPM as the existing slab (I assume) does not have one - should I just lap it up the sides? Thank you for any tips and advice

Electric chainsaw for me, so much more convenient than my old temperamental petrol one. I'm sure decent petrol ones aren't as much of a faff. Only downsides to my dewalt is it is down on power compared to petrol and it does eat through the batteries

I agree sounds like an issue with the diverter. Though I am curious about what error the diverter is managing to throw on the Joule Maybe diverter and sender need rebooting if they have lost connection?

Going to look a lot better if you have a clear room, I guess you could cover the edges with beading, but IMO it will always look bodged and you'll struggle where the end panels meet the floor

Thanks - yes G3 for UVC, so going to stick immersion in buffer, wall mount the thing to give me the height for G3.

Thanks @Nickfromwales and everyone much appreciated I was planning for an immersion for backup, so will rejig things for G3. I think I can gain the height needed by wall / shelf mounting the buffer with my network cabinet below rather than above - pray for no leaks 🙏

I didn't know that - thanks It was supplied with one 🤷‍♂️ - I guess becuase it is a sealed system, but I'm happy to be corrected and delete it if possible It is a heat pump, hoping to avoid glycol and go with antifreeze valve

Just planning the plant room, and there will be a cool energy buffer tank in there. Space is a little tight, so I was wondering if the the PRV on the buffer needs full G3, (e.g. tundish, 300mm etc) or if it can just go straight into waste? I suspect it does need full G3, but hoping it doesn't Thanks

Don't see why not, IIRC the PIR is just glued with the edges taped with silver tape to protect them

I went with one of these easy enough to fit once you have the correct opening https://www.jupiterblue.co.uk/loft-hatches-c2/standard-range-c9/airtight-loft-hatch-560-x-640mm-hinged-patented-design-p221