Dave Jones

morning with a 5 ton digger, burn the lot and fish out the metal for scrap after.

sbr and cement IS the slurry. lay them on a 50mm bed of conc made from sharp sand 5-1 mix

https://www.bpcventilation.com/panasonic-fan-coil-unit

SBR and cement. make a mix with it. Obviously you cant just drop them on dirt like the photo, you need 100mm type1 compacted and at least 50mm of conc.

you wont be able to store anything in the loft unless it has had legs fitted to raise the boards above the insulation.

if all you got is stud wall the wall plate is least of your issues.

look a lot better with some oak sikkens cetol on it.

are you external walls really just stud ? option 1 is perfectly fine as long as the cavity insulation and loft insulation overlap.

there is no black hole ? Like saying there is a 100bn black hole for holidays next year.

you could allways sister them up with OSB cuts each side with screws and expanding D4 glue.

Just make EPC D and below houses unmortgage able from 2035. Make any spend on insulation materials and fitting costs vat free and reclaimable against personal tax allowance. Those who can afford these modest costs should be in rented anyway. No excuses then.

As long as there are lead soakers under it all the way up both sides it should be ok

simple answer is no chance. The fantasy build costs you get here are full of free labour so have to be taken with large pinch of salt. Just get your plans professionally QS'd and you will know to the penny the real cost.

the idea is you want the cavity insualtion to be continuos with the window so as much of the window as possible set back into the cavity. a bare min of 65mm back from outside. Make sure you insist on straps for installing the windows not the cowboy method of smashing screws through the frames into 10mm of brickwork.

same method as we use to stop next door sucking on our solar. flux megajoule 4.

your right to be concerned, id say the builder did it deliberately as it would have been a lot cheaper method. Dew point will definitely now be inside the timbers. Easy fix though, remove covering and just add another 150mm insulation on top then re-cover.

one of the best decisions we made on our build. Was a roll of dice as couldn't find any 'official' advice on using fancoils for cooling. They consume virtually no power as its the fan is a small pc type one, keeping our bedrooms at 20/21 with a 15/16c flow temp with outside temps 30c. If you do go down this route make sure the flow and return is insulated everywhere, inside stud etc as it will get condensation on it if you want air con levels of cooling.

everyone with a standard roof as there is no need.

stop! Use fancoils in the bedrooms, they are much smaller footprint as they have a heat exchanger in them. Biggest plus as they are close to air-con in the summer when you turn your heat pump into cooling mode.

added a ismartgate to mine which gives you infinite opening range and is carplay compatible. https://ismartgate.com/

£13k for a brickie to lay 8 padstones !! Have you had your plans professionally QS'd so you have a clue what they should be costing ?

not using it for vehicle to grid, vehicle to home so the grid should see nothing.

looking good, klober do a nice rubber valley closer you can cut to suit. https://klober.co.uk/dry-verge-and-valleys/roof-valleys/grp-dry-valleys/a/dry-valley-closure +1 for no gutter

yes you can do this. Put an opening in the roof for example and it drops the efficiency big time so you have to account for it. You can also beef up other areas if you can only reach the bare minimum on a single element.

300mm is massive, does it serve a housing estate ?