PeterW

Daft as it may sound, try Avon Skin so Soft..! Even used by the Royal Marines as a repellent ..!

My guess is a soil pipe running parallel to the wall with a tee as it hits the soil leaving the house ....

So I wouldn't bother then ..! Tee with a cap on where the grey is, bring it down to the right level for the main drain and run it in to a Y in the main clay branch - that will also sort your downpipe problem too.

Wall starter seems a bit overkill for an infil - it doesn't have to take any movement from settling of foundations. These are usually pretty cheap and easy to fix too https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Staifix-Starter-Tie-135mm-Bag-10/p/252299

Why the Y branch below the other branch..?? What else has to go into the drain run ..?? If you are breaking into the clay you are better off coming a fair way back, cutting it carefully with a thin abrasive hacksaw blade and making the rest up in uPVC with a decent coupling onto the clay and a slip coupling on the uPVC Other option is to leave the stack clean and then just tee in the other waste below ground - easier and simpler tbh

@TerryE who was the duct from ..? Is it the 63mm stuff ..? I may be interested if you want to move it on ..!

Another option for you would be to suspend the lower section from the upper steels. Increasing the steel size would allow you to "hang" the lower portion using a UC section in tension. This is sometimes used for commercial buildings and needs the connection detail clearly designed by an engineer. Best suited to lightweight building methods but is an option if you are using timber frame and render. Still needs the insulation details done properly.

Useful site thanks

Welcome ..! Can I ask how you managed to find us ..?? Google search ..?

Eccleston Hall manufacture EPS in both white and grey. Was cheapest for me but when I factored in transport it became marginal. Local BM price for white is same as theirs for grey - when you get to 300mm of depth though it's .01 on the uValue so not worth it for me

A lot depends on what you want to get done in the next few months ..?? There will be a limited amount you can do if you're not wind and watertight so if you look at the cost of delaying vs the cost of a few sheets of OSB and some CLS to make temporary covers for windows and doors you may be surprised.

2 degrees is fine..!

Correct ..! Easier than working it out as I've even got an old IKEA tape that has red marks on it for every 25mm diameter increase from 75-250mm..!

There are easy little tools online to work out cutting lists that maximize usage of stuff like timber that can be used to work this out

BS5837:2012 uses the nominal diameter of 75mm at 1.5m from ground level for the purposes of classification of trees within a tree survey. This was changed from 4" in the previous version due to metrication of the measurement rules ..! The term "substantive diameter" was also removed as you used to measure and take the maximum diameter, not the mean. Above this, then a "tree" should be recorded however it is recognised that previous pruning operations can result in large trunk radii with low crowns - such as 2m - and thus you find that most tree surveys only include trees below 90-100mm if they are of particular interest or you are surveying for a specific reason (such as a TPO) In woodlands or for large tree groups, the diameter increases to 150mm however there is a lot of discussion on what constitutes a woodland as that becomes very subjective the more trees you remove ..! The glorious tree regs - clear as mud ..!

The only conservation regs I don't get are the water ones ..!! baths and showers are so subjective you cannot regulate it with a measurement of flow. If you stand in it for 20 minutes then you use 180 litres of water, same shower different person and uses 36 litres for a 4 minute shower - a difference of 144 litres. In the big scheme of things that's about 0.0001% of Thames Water's daily losses ... I would look at cheaper "compliant" taps and then change them post sign off if needed. I'm trading off my shower capacity with using rainwater for WCs so the calcs are simplified for me.

Ok I would have that out then.

Can you measure it's diameter at 1.5m up from the floor...?? Less than 315mm it's not classed as a tree so can come out anyway. I would be removing it and replanting post build with something else. is there a tree survey as part of the planning submission online ..?

The little thing about 6m tall..??

Wiggle the SDS about and you will have plenty for a 25mm MDPE

Sounds like one for the contractor/engineer..?? Who's done the design for the wall..??

Either would work - just trying to reduce your rework when you go to 22mm everywhere..!

On that last 22-15 reducer, if you use a 22mm compression coupler with a reducing set in it you won't have to do any rework to it when you move up to 22mm throughout ...

Both ... MDPE stop valves aren't that expensive but make sure it's full bore. Then add a full bore lever valve and you will be able to isolate both the house and the PRV of you need to do any maintenance on it

So bizarrely they have rung me back and offered the same price as on the web offer, just with a juicy £450 plus VAT delivery charge ..!! samples to be collected on Friday all being well ..!