PeterW

@jamiehamy is there a recommended glue for this..?? And how do you hold the cat still ..?

Despite their being a series of national planning "standards" they are applied in an arbitrary way by understaffed and overworked departments ... recipe for disaster ..!

Got a photo ...??!

Sorry but I go with the manufacturer fittings on this - the Knauf ones are pretty impressive as they only barely cut in and were designed for the job .... structurally you are weakening the board drilling a pilot if its larger then the screw thread ..!

Not strictly true. If your app is incomplete then the clock doesn't start ticking. If it's complete then the only way for it to go past the 8 weeks and not be in breach is for the council to write to you and ask for more time. Best way to check is go onto the council planning portal and do a search on how many applications submitted in the week of 30th Jan have undecided status. That gives an indication of whether they hit the target but it's a pretty rough and ready way of doing it ..!

He's related to my brickie then ..!! Every joint internally is pointed and checked so we have no airtightness issues ..!

My private BCO is a director of the company doing it and he has been very thorough so far but also very helpful. It helps that I've been open with him and he can see the quality and effort going in and we aren't trying to hide anything. In contrast, a build round the corner is using LABC and has had a number of delays despite inspections being booked which delayed the likes of the foundation pour. Horses for courses I think as there is good and bad in both systems.

Well it wasn't theirs at the time as they hadn't completed so they could say it was trespassing however that's civil ... In the end it all worked out ok and a lot of the issues were resolved but I know they had the MagicMan in there for nearly 2 days so I've no idea how much that cost TW. The one thing they never fixed and still bugs me to this day is the window board half way up the staircase - it's at about 3 degrees slope left to right and Chloe insists on having a vase on it that shows how out of level it is ..!

Sometimes the bearing is built into the drum spider at the back - you may have to replace the whole spider which is bolted to the frame.

As it says really ... looking at options for outdoor lights under the soffits and quite like some smallish LED panel lights. They are the usual type of the cast aluminium light with a separate PSU. For longevity I would swap the psu for a waterproof 120w unit which is far more robust than the small supplied units, but how would an IP20 rated LED fare in an outdoor soffit..? I am thinking that I would potentially put a bead of clear CT1 between the casing and the acrylic disk to stop and direct moisture or bugs getting in the edges, but is there any other reason not to do this as they are technically SELV units and all the 12v wiring would be hidden in the soffit boxes.

I do snagging surveys for friends and I've thankfully started to do less as people have stopped buying the developer boxes and have bought older properties to renovate (usually after seeing what we and others have done) In no particular order, I've had : - no stormwater drains (yep, straight into the ground..) - a toilet not connected to a water supply - a pushfit JG tee held on with electrical tape - internal door with no latchbar between the handles ... - handle on the wrong side of a kitchen door (yep, hinge side...) - staircase handrail with just a bracket top and bottom - damaged stone corbels and cills - bowed rainwater pipes where they have sprung the pipe onto the gutter .... Thats the big stuff, invariably you get nail pops, cracks etc that you see everywhere even on the more expensive builds. I was banned from a T***** W****y site for a 5 page snagging report - they told the site manager to call the police if I turned up, I said to do that as I could have them for fraud as they were charging for work that was never done ...

@Dee have a read of this Lots of detail and diagrams and pretty easy to follow too https://www.marleyeternit.co.uk/~/media/Files/Product-Files/Roofing/Brochure-Request/Marley-Eternit-Sitework-Guide.pdf

@CC45 Any reason you can't just put a 25mm roof batten flush with the end of rhe rafter if you're only using it as the kicker ..?

I use TP when I absolutely have to and there is no alternative. I normally use MKM who have a great branch director who looks after the self build accounts himself - no issues on invoices, it all gets sorted without a fuss. TP on the other hand are a nightmare - I ordered 8000 reclaims and even offered to take them all onto site in one go. They got 6400 in, and I rejected the first 2 packs as they were a mess. Consistent driver issues on delivery mean it takes 3 times as long to get a delivery. They then told me this week they hadn't ordered the rest of the bricks so the next lot "could be different" and there were "no guarantees" with reclaims .... I asked why they hadn't just ordered the 8k in the first place like I'd asked ...!!! Apparently they have never had a problem matching them up ..... I wait and see ..! All I know is as soon as the order has been delivered then the account will be paid off and closed ..!

I thought all fascias had to go on first when tiling to support the bottom row of tiles..? if you're using capping boards they go on afterwards but if it's the full 18mm ones then it goes on first. Try this for size http://www.swishbp.co.uk/installation/

.... or paying a brickie..!!

Hmmm ..... by control component I mean the ones with moving parts that could wear. So I have : Pipe Stat 3ch Controller Room Stat Diverter Valve Zone Valve most of that lot has been "standard" for the past 15-20 years with the exception of the 3ch controller, and the speed that UK Heating Plc changes its technology I doubt they will much different in 5-10 years time.

The exact reason I'm looking at alternatives ..! I am thinking that having a single control panel built of off the shelf DIN rail components and the DHT-100 units would be fine, but it would put a few people off I'm sure when it came to selling. The benefit from direct off the shelf components used "as designed" is that if something does fail then it's an easy replacement. For consistency I'm looking at using all computherm components though so I should be able to get some standardisation on a "known" temperature.

@MikeSharp01 Its the same link... Looks like both use a service called FastTrackCAD the links are identical - I wonder if they have embedded an old service and its been recently updated http://www.fastrackcad.co.uk/CAD.ASP?Company_id=108 You can register directly with them to get access - no idea if this works as I'm not registering to find out !! https://www.fastrackcad.com/Portfolio.asp

I think thats my plan too - and I will set the stats slightly high and see where they end up after tweaking. I've got an accurate digital thermometer anyway that I will use to check the calibration before I start.

So this is my thought too @TerryE - my issue though its the 4 control thermometers have such wide range of hysteresis !

I reckon you're doing this all arse about face ... build a nice passivshed(tm) at the bottom of the garden that's soundproof from the kids, and then move in there leaving them in the draughty house ..! Decent TV, beer fridge and hot tub and you're away ..!

Best tip I was given was to use "cheaper" emulsion as it had less latex in it (or whatever makes it sticky ..!) and to ensure you use a fine sieve to fill the pot as it's the tiny lumps that cause the blockages. I am thinking that buying a second hand one may be useful for vaulted ceilings along with a supply of Tyvek suits ..!

I entirely agree hence my post ..! My issue is the delta range on some of these components as they are huge when you are considering such low temperatures. The idea with running the floor at 32c and the buffer at 35c is that in the event the buffer becomes exhausted the ASHP will be feeding pretty much directly into the UFH (albeit with the buffer acting as a low loss header in this instance) and this is only really likely to happen when the temperature is very cold. The concern I have though is that I'm at the mercy of a number of components and their tolerances : Room Stat +/- 0.5K Buffer Stat +/- 5K Pipe Stat +/- 5K Blend valve +/- 1K Its fine in this instance if the buffer and ASHP are above the temp required for blending the floor but not if below as the floor will never reach temperature. But taking the ASHP up to 40c from 35c starts to erode the CoP and impact frost cycles, and then the same is true at UVC temp and I could be up above 52c with a CoP through the floor.... Temptation is to put 4 of the DTC-100 devices in a stack and use them to do all temperature control. At least I can set the tolerance to say +\-1K and they are cheap enough to be disposable. The downside is that I get 4 glowing displays and a temptation to fiddle ......

Yep...! Its more about supportability and maintainable components when it's not just me in a house. I've got a number of ducts in for DS18x sensors to monitor what the house is up to but I need to make sure that some of the components are easily replaced. It annoys me that some of standard components on items such as UVC Aquastats are of similar spec too as it means if I want to tighten up control of all of the tolerances I need to discard supplied components and move to more custom elements. I noticed ESI have brought out a digital aquastat now but the majority of UVC controls are still bimetallic stats that haven't changed in 40 years. Oh and it doesn't help when the other occupant likes to use the "off" switch on controls rather than letting the controls do thier job .... I'm thinking of putting it all in a locked Perspex box with just a small hole for a finger to press a button if extra hot water is needed ....