PeterW

http://forterra.co.uk/thermalite-and-aggregrate-blocks/thermalite-aircrete-block-detail/thermalite-aircrete-hi-strength-coursing-block Just bear in mind they need to be level across the slab to +/- 5mm for most timber frame companies so I would suggest using two courses of 65mm and get you pretty close (145mm) with a couple of thin mortar beds to level out any uneveness

So try asking for a 140mm concrete common, or a coursing block...

Why not use a 140 wide lightweight standard block ..?? Not exactly heavy and you can get them in 7N strength

What are your current ceiling heights ..?? Difference between 2400 and 2300 is negligible - some modern 3 storeh developer boxes have 2235 ceilings and you can't tell.

You need Insulation as you have a cold bridge into the beams and they will take a lot of heating ..!! What is the space below the beam and block ..??

So I've blocked all of our door frames at 900mm min. That means an 838mm door leaves an 800mm clear opening when fully open. Door linings are 30mm, architrave is 45mm or so and that's about the same as an average door handle so if you can get a door and architrave in then you should get to 90 degrees

@curlewhouse Also worth reading this - usually the vehicle is defined in the easement with the height / width / weight as they are tangible - and it does beg the question if that is even enforceable. http://www.boundary-problems.co.uk/boundary-problems/priv-r-o-w.html

I read that differently. Domestic purposes is what is reasonable for the enjoyment of the dwelling as a residence. It is reasonable to expect deliveries to a house and what I believe that clause is to stop is the use of the road for commercial purposes - for example you turning the house into a haulage yard. If that's not the case, how can you classify a "domestic vehicle" as the only way would be by the DVLA classification and I know that there is no "commercial" class in that data ...! I would suggest you ask the PC to support the view above, changing that clause is irrelevant as it's not enforceable as it cannot be defined in law.

Is it worth treating the panels with something like Rain-X or one of the self cleaning window products ..??

I've got that one and it's pretty decent for indoors but useless outdoors unless you use it with a laser target card.

No... I expect you to tile.....

This one .....

Think @Ferdinand bought something to do his.

I'm amazed that he would even suggest it to you as we all know you are right.......... I doubt you will tell the difference anyway as the way tiles weather is dependent on lots of factors including the prevailing rain etc and each of the sides of that dormer will be different in 12 months anyway.

Got a link or a supplier @JSHarris..?

Go with Seconds&Co as they are far cheaper and aren't putting prices up at all.

I know a few people say the Saxton multitool blades are very good - anyone had any experience of their circ saw blades as they seem to get mixed reviews..? I've usually used Freud or genuine Makita but this is for cutting chipboard so not overly worried about a perfect finish.

Been there and seen them ... truly amazing ..!! Tapping the heat and use as District heating out in the highlands is inspiring - tapped at 160c at 70m down, feed 5 houses over a 5000sqm area and the last house is getting water at 90c before it discharges it at 60 litres per minute with no pump ..! Keflavik runway is also heated for de-icing by using hot water from the neighbouring power plant - one way to be able to land in -20c..!

I "think" he's included 2 optimisers in the price on that quote so is assuming he's going on south and west. Looking again if he can do it at that price on two elevations then it is very good as it's the edge components on the in roof system that cost the money.

@Rossek9 that sounds pretty good to me.

Panels are the same price - the panels are identical, it's the fitting system that varies

The difference with Fermacell is you don't skim it - the edge joints are glued and then the holes are filled and its floated over with FST - fine surface treatment. fantastic stuff - hang anything on it with a single screw and it's very dense. Downsides are the dust destroys power tools and it's expensive . If you want to mix and match plasterboard then use Gyproc Habito which is their dense board.

Does it not have summer bypass ..? If so then night time is probably when you want it on so you can get cooler filtered air into the house.

Whacked down hardcore with a layer of road planings over the top ends up like concrete so I would just do that. BCO don't like you using road planings round here as you can't guarantee what's in it but tbh I can't see why for what you are planning it's not an option. They are usually cheap too

Seriously consider the benefits before going MCS Look at your theoretical generation capability and the cost of the MCS cert and see what the payback is on the difference. If it's north of 10 years to get the difference back (not unreasonable given current FIT rates) then I wouldn't bother with MCS