PeterW

Stihl saw with diamond disk and it will go through the rebar etc too. Cut 3”deep and make it slightly vee shaped and cut 3 or 4 parallel slits. Take a cold chisel and smack into the cut and the centres will break out sideways.

So that’s a buffer for the UFH - standard wet 120 litre copper cylinder will work - and a Sunamp for the DHW.

Sunamp won’t currently do UFH in its standard config - you need a different PCM for this in a different unit.

Is the septic a concrete one or fiberglass one ..?? If it’s concrete and properly cleaned and suctioned out can you not just crush the lid and edges off it and bury it ..??

Its the same floor loss - you batten at 600 centres and then infil with insulation cut to size. total loss is only 25mm per wall.

Hi and welcome ..! first and most fundamental question - why gravity and the pumps ..?? Do you have very low water pressure ..?? all of what you need can either be done via a 3-400 litre Unvented Cylinder (search for UVC) or probably a pair of Sunamp units (search Sunamp) which will both give mains pressure hot water. Gravity water systems and shower pumps are the last resort really. @Nickfromwales will be along shortly too ...

My joiner re-makes sash windows and to be honest they are as good as anything with a normal set of seals. Wooden windows made properly can be done to very high standards. We have battened and insulated with 25mm insulation and then boarded as it’s quicker and cheaper to do and have just as good results. That’s on top of 150mm blown bead cavity. I would seriously consider a top down approach and get the loft finished first and then you never have to touch it again.

Not sure as I’ve seen both - one has a MgO board outer, and one has both inner and outer.

Daft as it sounds .... use the cement boarded ones inside out. It’s like Fermacell and does a pretty decent finish - skim it if you want and use surface mounted electrics etc. And on the outside you can then batten and rain screen as per @Ian

Based on the size, that’s 6 rolls per layer of standard 100mm insulation which is about 14sqm / roll for your first bit. 24 rolls, that’s half a day to do the inbetween bits and then the remainder of the two days will be the other rolls to get you to your 4 layers. As @daiking says, this is an easy DIY job.

If you have somewhere to store it and have a current property, then there are some good offers via the sheds currently on the eco roll stuff. 3 for 2 and a 10% card etc will certainly get it close if not under the BM prices.

That’s odd as I’ve never had it go mouldy..? Even where we dug out parts from a ceiling where there had been a slow leak and it had gone to mush.

Aquapanel will take heavier tiles and more impact resistant.

Tanked Fermacell or MR Board would be fine. Fermacell is available nationwide through TP as it comes via their partner company CCF. Cheapest way is full pallets too.

Used it and it’s fine but I’m moving towards using MR plasterboard and shower panels rather than tile as I don’t need to use any board behind them. Fermacell is ok but it does swell when wet so not fully like an Aquapanel. They do a H2O board though that is water resistant.

@jamiehamy don’t look too close - he’s not even making all the crosses in the heads in line with each other....

Beads are poor for situations such as that - is this just a flat ceiling and traditional cold roof space .? Insulation is cheap - putting 3-400mm down to start with is a day or two job at most. The hardest bit is the stuff between the rafters, the rest just rolls out in big 1200mm swathes. What shape is your new house ..?

No that’s the centres for ordinary boards - you’re using MR board and it’s 87.5mm centres unless you use screws longer than 40mm where you can go to 112.5mm....

I’m wondering if this is stuck in DHW mode and the diverter is jammed. If it’s W plan then priority is hot water, but unless the tank is satisfied then heating will never come on. Wired wrongly, and with the temp set too high on the tank stat, it will never satisfy the DHW need and never go to heating mode. @Lynford when was the tank replaced ..? And out of interest, what’s the rough location of the in-laws..??

Those top screws aren’t evenly spaced ......

Is it stamped as certified WBP. ..? Good exterior ply should be marked as BS so check first.

Proper BS STD ply is water and boil proof and will stand a lot of moisture before it delaminates. For something that’s going to be there for decades I’d suggest you go for a decent and stamped / approved board from a reputable supplier.

It will stink when it gets warm for years ! why do you want to treat it...?? If its for anti condensation then you would want something acrylic based.

If you are less than 200mm below the surface to the top of the pipe, from memory I think you need to encase in concrete. http://www.marleyplumbinganddrainage.com/media/5423/pipe-laying.pdf

Good luck finding one of those...! 10,000 metric bricks is a wagon load, or roughly 20 packs give or take a few. That’s enough for around 195 square metres of brickwork or a house 8m square with standard gables. Your average developer site is taking 1 a day of those at full speed so an order from a self builder is probably a bigger hassle than it’s worth - big sites can offload that in minutes with a Telehandler, no hiab needed. The other factor is space - don’t under estimate the space 20 packs takes and they need to be in the right place. Moving bricks by hand takes time and load out is hard work - having a merchant with call off and having 3 or 4 packs at a time is a godsend.