PeterW

Surface to surface you have 2150..? OK not that shabby then - take off 15mm for plasterboard as this will probably be treated as a “garage” so needs to be fire lined. For me, I would be going back to using 25mm of PIR on the floor followed by 22mm of chipboard - wood is warmer under foot than concrete and this is a workshop and you won’t damage tools as much if you drop them on the concrete ..! that leaves you 2085mm all bar the fighting. That’s shy of 110mm less than a standard developer house ceiling at 2195mm so is fine in my book.

Done carefully that is fine ..!!! The only difference when you’re working in the RPA is that you may need to do more work by hand - I’ve had to do this - basically went within 800mm of the trunk of a sycamore but had to do all excavation manually. Just put a note that says “x to y will be hand trenched where required to avoid tree roots.” At that distance out a HC will be no more than 60-70mm thick and will be deeper than your trench ..!

That is a collar truss with a king pin.

So now the structure is up - what is the exact height from slab to bottom of the floor joists above .??

Neither...!! Far too complicated and you’re creating problems for yourself .... Try this - single IC and the utility to kitchen creates a decent wash through

why is it your stress..?? builder needs to make the roof to meet building regs. It won’t if the roof isn’t designed and built correctly. BCO can pick that up. I would suggest it may be a typo on an invoice or plan - or even a colloquial term ..!! Ask on here how many different names there are for a noggin....

yes in some places and it will be fine. It’s designed to be left in all weathers for up to 65 days ...

A lot of your issues will be dependent on your design - do you have a fixed shape (planning granted..?) so you’re trying to retrofit all of the M&E, or have you got a blank sheet of paper ..? Plan in the plant space carefully - big tanks need reasonable spaces around them, but you also need to make them as central as possible to get the shortest runs of pipe work. As @ProDave said - you need to focus on installation and air tightness, and then look at your heating requirements. It’s highly unlikely you can make a GSHP pay - they have a 2-3 times capital cost and a continued maintenance that will dwarf running an ASHP. You will need and ASHP of 5-8kW I would expect for both heat and hot water for a decent spec new build using UFH. That depends on the MVHR - if like @PeterStarck or @JSHarris you fit a Genvex with a small internal heat pump then it will provide a small amount of heat. The real benefit is that you don’t lose all the heat from the continuous air changes of the building, retaining 80-90% based on the unit you choose.

its called Egger Protect board and it is waterproof for 60 days - the foaming glue joining the boards will make it like a pond ..!! I’ve had a floor exposed for 3 months with no issues.

I would go for a 10kw minimum as the planning will be the same, and then cost will not be much more than 50% extra. Just need to remember it has to be as far away from a road, house, boundary or power line as it is tall. (Thats the guidance we were given)

When doing bare root we tend to have 15/20 spares and they go into a corner to grow on. If there is a gap in the hedge a year later, one or two of these get transplanted into the gap - same batch so they tend to look and be the same size as the rest

You can either use 25mm between the battens, and 25mm under to get 50mm, or just use 25mm as it will be good enough to improve the fabric.

You could get a couple of railway sleepers and cut them down the middle to make some decent 4x4 oak post for £8 then make the frame into 3 bays. Bolt a 4x2 along the back wall, cut your rafters to hang off them and use the oak at the front. Will look really nice !

Ok - that hinge is not available as a spare part but you may be able to get someone to drill out the old stud and get a new one inserted - local small engineering or machine shop would be the choice. On the seat.... they are available as a spare, but are £200+ as they are reinforced ..!! https://www.independent4life.co.uk/geberit-seat-and-lid-for-aquaclean-8000-series-shower-toilets-white.html

The pines should go... ASAP !!

The US pressure stuff is different - it’s ABS Schedule pressure pipe and needs a slightly different adhesive and the use of MEK as cleaning solvent is not unusual.

That is the correct behaviour. It’s the water flow temperature and when you turn the controller off, the pump goes off and the boiler heat exchanger transfers the residual heat to the water in the system. Having a pump over run would help - what Danfoss controller have you got ..?

It won’t matter. Timber is fine even when wet, it will dry out. Get the plans from the timber frame company, and get an idea of what the builder has planned, and make a decision. I wouldn’t put up with a ceiling too low.

Why would it..? Take the sections off - put a pair of 8x2 on as a ring beam all the way round and stick them back on..?? Or are the top sections too high now to go under the main roof eaves..?? Will need about 250mm clearance.

5 mins with a crowbar

sod screed ... isn’t this a work room for you ..?? 90mm PIR with a floating floor of 22mm chipboard, that’s 102mm finished and a gnats nadger above your black DPM so you’ve still got 2.2m ceiling height all bar the fighting.

Do you have the age / model number and what exactly is broken ..?? The Aquaclean 8000 plus has a heavy duty seat as it’s designed to be used as a self care unit. If you’ve got photos of what is broken it may be possible to get spares from Geberit direct, the issue is that the hinge post itself is part of the base not the seat, so you would struggle to get anything “standard” to fit.

Skip ... don’t even use for hardcore as they have a nasty habit of breaking into sharp points and piercing tyres ... ask me how I know ....

Location, Location, Location...???? That will drive your costs more than anything else...

so... do a sketch of what you want ..! also, do a few floor plans of what you, your wife and your kids want and need from the house. Just a cheap A3 pad with felt tips will do, and then find a good AT and say “make these work...!!” You need to decide what is good and right for you - start there and you’ll have less issues. Also, from a cost perspective .. 1. square boxes are cheap to build 2. glass is 5x the cost of wall 3. curves are 3x the cost of straight 4. flat roofing can be cheaper but is very difficult to get right unless you pay the right contractor 5. an hour a day on site in the morning with the trades will pay dividends 6. an hour an evening tidying and sweeping up on site means you’ll spot things and can fix issues early 7. plan floor surfaces carefully - costs can soon add up 8. do the jobs you can really do to save money - if you’re not a plasterer, pay someone else ! 9. a cheap kitchen or bathroom can be replaced down the line - cheap insulation can’t be so fabric first 10. Children can be trained to use a brush from an early age ... see No.6....