PeterW

That looks like it’s going the wrong way... and is very old as that is black and red not brown and blue ..! Henley should have the feed into it - where is the meter and where does that armoured go to..? @ProDave one for you ..!!

This is why I hate concrete infill and now use / spec EPS below ground so there are no cold bridges. What’s the overall cavity insulation.? Is it fibre batts ..?

@CJE it may be easier to redact any personal data from the plans and then upload them as it’s difficult to comment without. Also need to know if the steels are supporting the floor or the roof - there are lots of options if it is just the floor, and steel isn’t always needed. Depending on the plans, consider something like Telebeams as they are ideal for simple conversions

Start with @AnonymousBosch as his is this design from memory.

Yep then just bury it properly (750mm) and bed in sand and then crack on ..! I’d make sure someone is stood by the stop tap when it’s turned on then wander round all the outlets and check for leaks as it’s probably an MDPE replacement for lead, and you may find that a combination of better flow and pressure will expose any issues with the old house pipework.

When you say the incoming terminates 3m from the stop tap what do you actually mean..? Is the water meter in the garden / street..? And is anything connected to the old stop tap on the supplier side or is there no water to the property currently ..??

If it is internal then I’d be inclined to use a decent coloured grout and very carefully point them. It is a messy job anyway and you’ve got kitchen appliances and doors to avoid. I would be removing all the doors and taping and sheeting up very carefully.

Ok so if it’s in then the quickest thing to do is a static and dynamic pressure test. Anything over 3 bar and your laughing.

Only way to find out is test it. If it’s 100m and level then you would be best off using a 32mm supply pipe and reducing at the house and really looking properly at the feeds to WCs, taps etc and using a mix of 10/15/22mm pipe where appropriate. What’s the route / topology of the supply pipe to the house ..?

no - an unvented cylinder is mains pressure. As long as you have decent mains pressure then it is fine. If you start with poor mains pressure, any upstairs tap will be affected.

Sorry but that makes your trees 9m from the foundation not 6m..?? And yes, insulated raft can be used on lots of different surfaces.

I doubt this is an issue. Are they dry set or wet set slabs ..?? They will be +\-25mm on length and 5mm on thickness anyway so you’re not going to get a perfectly engineered floor anyway. Material tolerances in the building trade seem to be up to 5% - not including anything that shrinks or expands - so you need to probably sit back a little and relax as otherwise you will be forever winding yourself and your trades up asking for the impossible. It is also why you need to measure - plan - measure - order for anything like kitchens or bathrooms. This isn’t precision engineering and even a couple of 5mm variations can mean your perfectly planned kitchen won’t fit ...

Seriously consider an insulated raft at this point. You would need to do some ground investigation but not to the depths you’re talking here. Also, a 20m Oak will have a canopy diameter of about 15m or so - are you building under the edge of the canopy or are you measuring from some other point ..??

Think you’re over thinking this ... I’ve had to insulate the bottom of the print bed to get it to hold at 110c to do ABS, and it printed fine in a standard room but wasn’t that thick. The fan blowing across the nozzle heat sink creates more of a draught than something in the room. I’m looking to build a base box for mine to stand on, and mount the PSU and the control box in that and put a decent fan on the back to keep it all cool. Then may decide to do something with the outer but tbh PLA+ is proving fine for pretty much everything I’m doing, I may go to PS at some point but not really going to start worrying about anything more exotic.

MLCP is expensive for a one off job - I know two contractors and they only have one press kit for 4 vans as it’s over £1k for a set with all the jaws etc. They did a German kit house near Lincoln and had to buy it as it was all MLCP and it had to be altered to fit the taps as the wrong connectors had been supplied.

May be worth getting in touch with someone like Crown Utilities to get a quote for the lot. A Section 106 road opening licence will be about £500, add at least another £1000 if you need traffic control. Thames will be charging you an infrastructure fee, £300 is about right. In terms of depth this will affect the cost substantially - anything over 1500mm invert and you potentially need to put trench shoring in place and the time to connect will increase.

Are you looking at the squeeze out on the back ..? That looks like timber frame - 50mm cavity ..? As long as nothing is bridging to the face of the frame it looks ok to me. Not a lot of space in there to clean up the backs. @Brickie any comments ..?

I think you are going to struggle here - especially with the cavity gap as concrete blocks are +/-6mm on every dimension to standard and I would want the outer faces run straight.

Question is ..... has Debbie cottoned on yet that it’s not one of hers, but belongs to the blonde in the village ..?? ?

Bonding - just tell him there are a few socket holes to fill and let him do it.

@Chablais this is an alternative option You may need to use an elbow irrespectively and there are options - make a wall plate elbow from compression to push fit with off the shelf fittings for example.

Never seen the IC pressurised for an air test. The tops aren’t always sealed anyway.

that vent definitely needs to move..!!

Can you test it ..?? Drain plugs and a pressure test in the bath ..??

Heathen..!!! Grey with terracotta pipe..???!!! What kind of dress sense do you have..??!! Any CT1 to be honest is fine, but watch for getting it inside the pipe unless you can reach down the pipe and clean it off.. May be worth adding a stub to the tank that you can then use a "normal" connector on to. Baby wipes and Multisolve are your friend here.