PeterW

Solidor composite with Ultion plus 3G And Secured by design is change of £2k inc VAT.

Also, the FIAM R6 lock is a joke - it is a standard barrel with a 6th pin. Ultion locks have 11 pins in 2 rows - they cannot be picked in the same way as a normal lock and contain drop shields and other nasties that stop them being bumped. https://www.lockshop-warehouse.co.uk/acatalog/ultion-euro-double-cylinder.html

P6B is just armoured glass - it basically will take an axe. Thermally it is crap, and needs to be built into a DG or 3G unit to become thermally efficient. Sounds like you have an empty house..? Assume they went after it because they could see it was not alarmed/CCTV due to work ongoing and were after the tools. I would be putting a fairly strong but reasonably priced frame in - and I would also consider moving the door as the hinge side fixed to a solid wall is much stronger. @sw879 apologies - 6.4L is 6.4mm laminated glass

Ok so all of that is dependent on frame and the locks. Start with multipoint and ensure the mechanism can take an Ultion euro barrel. Frame needs to be reinforced which should be standard in UPVC but surprisingly isn’t in some designs. The side lights cause issues with structure to the hinge side but nothing that can’t be designed out. All glazing needs to be internally beaded, and then security taped in - I would make the top light of 6.4 laminate with the number in the middle pane made of frosted glass, then another layer of 6.4 laminate. Side lights I would break up into 3 sections - big enough to let light in, small enough that the cannot be used for access. Again, triple glazed and use the same make up as above 6.4L - 4 - 6.4L. Getting through that will make a lot of noise ..! Next - sort the lighting in the stairwell and make it clear that it has CCTV - dual cameras if necessary. That will make your average criminal think twice and walk off somewhere else.

Just remember that most breakers are not double pole - you really should be isolating both live and neutral.

The damp smell will be where someone has forced the flexible connector from the WC pan onto the soil pipe and sealed it with silicone by the looks of it. Also, I doubt the condensate drain from the boiler has a trap in it so you could be getting a whiff through the boiler too. Cadent / Gas would condemn that meter if they saw it as you can’t see the joints correctly and it cannot be isolated to be removed. Electricity meter is similar - wrong place and boxed in like tbat is wrong. I guess this is a DIY conversion of an old pantry or utility into a bathroom and it’s been done to no real standards. Sadly, moving the gas meter will be £6-800,electric will be similar. Reinstating those cabinets will be £2-300 but it can be done properly.

11 posts / pads would be ample with 6x2 framing. Double up all round as beams, make your front using 9x2 doubled as a header and sit a 4x2 on the top and you’ll have a 1:20 fall across the front to back if you use 6x2 as a back beam. I would be tempted to keep the structure simple and break it into squares and triangles. Quick fag packet says you have a 4m square that you could build up with 8x2 at 400 centres, just double up the ones making the outside of the square. Instead of making the whole front open up, why not use slot windows too, and just have the centre 1800 open up ..?? Cheap and easy to do and gives the same light. Decent 20mm shiplap is about £1.90/m delivered and you will need 9.2linM/sqm so should be easily inside £20/sqm for paneling. If it was me I would be framing the base and fitting battens and filling the gaps with OSB, full fill of 100mm PIR and then use floorboards as the final finish and you’ve no flooring to sort.

no you can cut them down. Min is about 100mm but that will put the cistern well below the counter. I can’t work those tiles out but think they are about 75mm tall looking at them so you can calculate the heights from that.

That looks to be a floor mounted WC Pan so I would guess it doesn’t have a frame and is just a cheap built in cistern - quick and easy to do. https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/hudson-reed-dual-flush-concealed-wc-toilet-cistern-xty014

Old 1” quarry tiles. Got a photo of how they fit into the wall and can advise better on a potential replacement.

11.2Kw will modulate sown and run fine - will be under less stress.

What mix were the bottom courses laid in, and when were they done..?

There isn’t an issue - tend to use black these days as they look nicer anyway, but as @Declan52 says, you don’t look up and see them. There is only normally around 25-50mm showing anyway due to the window or door placement.

If it was me..... If these are external meter boxes, run a duct between the two and in the DNO box put a fused isolator switch and an earth block. Then run to a pair of Henleys in the other box, and install one of these and then get them to install.

Yes so sell the parts while they are still worth something....!

Looks really tidy !! Thanks for sharing the final pics. Got any more of the cottage..?

Welcome Attic..!!! It would be a better location than building an outdoor store for a tank that would need frost protection, cabling for immersion heaters etc

Yes would be fine Not an issue with a double swept branch like that - it is when they are used horizontally

No because the term for the boiler header tank is an F&E or Feed and Expansion tank. It allows the water in the heating system to expand and contract as it heats and cools. Withouy it, you will either rupture the heat exchanger in the boiler or spring a leak somewhere - or both

One will be the heating header tank so unless you replace the boiler with a system/pressurised system then that is still needed

Yes but why bother as to be honest a set of steel wheels can be had for £100 in most reclaim yards

So why not do the proper tiny house on wheels thing then...?? Gets round the PP issue

Yes you can use a double tee as it is seen as a swept connection however I would try and get the basin to wash down the branch from past the WC if possible. The bath is a bigger issue, you can use the bottom boss but I would make sure there is a good flow from the bath to it and no restricted pipework

Just on this - you can get this installed with a CU with a single RCBO/MCB in the board attached to a single 13A socket. Is your box/meter within 3m of the CU..?? Irrespective of design, I would seriously contemplate having the tails go into one of these first https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CGMSF100.html

Will depend location and access also, and the type of scaffold. what is the total perimeter of the building ..?