PeterW

So use something like no nails on the wall edge and it will be there for eternity. You will never stand on this so it only needs to be decorative and nothing more.

Mitre Bond..?? Have you got a table saw ..? Can always run a length of skirt through the saw to give you the same type of timber and cheaper than finding other stuff. Offcut from the other side ends up on the bottom, carpet will cover any join

Somewhat depends on the council and also who has a vested local interest. If you’re not in a conservation area or got any TPOs on any trees, I would be doing all the tree work you need plus the nice to have stuff now as that becomes your number one issue if you’re not careful..

Unless you live in the new build for 3 years you won’t be able to claim any CIL exemption, so this looks like a 5-6 year programme if you’re looking to maximise benefit of both the tax position and the allowances. You may end up with some second home council tax issues too as they have got less and less generous with what they will allow you to do with renovations etc without paying council tax. CGT will be your biggest issue, as will cash flow unless you can develop at least one of the builds from savings or current equity. A lot of mortgage companies may see you as a developer.

You shouldn’t really get water running down felt, the way it should work is as he has done it with a board running up under the first row of tiles then some run the rubber up that and bond it and push the excess further still. Underfelt is draped over the top. You will then have a kicker batten to stop the tiles rubbing the rubber membrane. Water running down the under felt would indicate a leak further up the roof in the tiles.

Its more about how you accommodate wind lift in a pitched roof ..! Cos I can’t calculate it ..!

Isn’t that because a 6 ton yacht only has a 1 ton keel and you’re talking about an 18m lever acting on 4m centre of rotational axis ..? Therefore most of the force is quite low..? Pretty sure the dual angle of a pitch roof cancels a lot of the negative pressure and lift issues that occur with flat roof structures @Gus Potter one you can help with .?

Any idea where they are from ..?

Yep that’s just 3 bits of timber so cost wise they may as well just buy 125x35 and make them up on site as it’s got to be cheaper. Do Magnet do anything that size ...?? Haven’t seen them double trenched on the standard ones - just seem to be singles in Howdens as they sell them in standard sizes. Wasn’t impressed with the quality of the last ones so tend to use ones from MKM.

Howdens do a 940 but that is for an 898 door. Height is 2030 so would be 2010 door.

If 10 plus tonnes of roof is moving upward enough to lift the wall plates then you have bigger issues ..... For ease I tend to use 150mm concrete screws through the tops of wall plates into blocks as you can use them to level or twist any irregularities out of the wall plate timber.

Likewise I wouldn’t have OSB as a deck - P5 chipboard is the usual sort of material that I’ve used or specced. For the sake of £60-70 I would tank the “wet rooms” regardless but I would leave the kitchen.

+1 to this - and try pulling up perpendicular to the nail not outward. You’ll bend the strap end first before you get the nails to move.

You will struggle at that level for a decent door in that size. You’ll also need custom linings as they are non standard - budget £60-80 for a joiner made lining to fit those gaps.

Nails or concrete screws here. Depending on the blocks. Don’t like screws for this sort of stuff as most (read all) chippies seem to just use a countersunk head screw and they look crap .. should be a pan head but who has those on the van ..? So it’s whatever is to hand usually ..!

ha ha ha ha ..! No ..!! Out of interest where is the door shown on the plans and what’s the distance from the back edge of the wall (where the door will go) to the front edge of the top step..?

no some councils close the file after 3 years and ask for a small fee to reopen but there is no time limit

Nope just has to be done as per plans, and you need the electrical certificate. I’d leave the door off for now and get them to sign off. My BCO is more of an Assam fan and dark chocolate digestives .. but that’s just as he’s private not council ..!

Does the music room have to be part of the main structure ..? Or could it be isolated and treated as a different build with say less insulation ..? More than the garage but less than the house ..??

Ok so that drawing helps. Do they also do one for the walk on units as a 3-5 degree slope on walk on glazing is going to drop it 50mm per metre run ..? Can the walk on be laid “flat”..? I think you can build a gully around each of the kerbs with 80mm PIR, and use this to your advantage in creating drainage channels across the roof to your roof drains. The remaining roof could be a second layer of 80mm on top, and the whole lot sheathed in OSB and GRP’d with a double layup around all the point areas and gullies to create one large waterproof structure. I’d be talking to two people : - the rooflight manufacturer to see what the options are with the walk on units and the kerbs / minimum clearance. I’m assuming the 150mm is “splash proofing” which if you are decking the whole area becomes irrelevant to you as there will be no rain splash. - your building control officer as to what they will accept as minimum insulation, and even if spray insulation is acceptable as an alternative as it’s not being used in its certified method. Putting £2-3k worth of spray foam in place and then finding it has to come out would be a significant issue to overcome. I wish you good luck with this one.

Depending on the construct of the actual contracts you have in place, I would go for a private BCO and a QS on an hourly basis contracted to 3 or 4 hours a week. The QS can do the value of work completed so you know what you are paying for, and the BCO keeps it in check with regs. With private companies you can pay for additional inspections as their fees schedule normally list costs for reinspections and other items. You can’t get that from Local Authority inspectors.

I’m with @joe90, just let go to what has gone on. You will make yourself ill if you don’t. If you are up for making a door - and we’ve seen some of your woodwork so you’re perfectly capable - then the frame can be made to fit and as strong as possible. It will essentially be self supporting so what’s behind is irrelevant. One question - have you now got building control sign off on this as it stands ..?? Just thinking about that door and the steps.

I think you’re missing the point here. You have 250mm, maybe even 270mm if the door has a cill as you can run the decking level will the cill. even if the glazing needs 80mm clear space then you have 170mm below your top surface at 250mm, or 190mm if you can get the deck up to cill height. That allows for 150-160mm of insulation above the deck as designed if you go with GRP and OSB as the surface, and loads space for your decking. The better way still would be go higher and slope the insulation using taper insulation toward the upstands and make them have channels around or near (not suggesting put them in the gutter ..!! ) and build a system of drainage across the roof in GRP.

I thought that but the units are 45mm thick so with an overlap they may need a small trench but that’s no bad think to move water off the deck. other option is reduce to 150mm or lose the 12mm sheathing and go direct onto the joists but that takes balls to work on top of as there is nothing to stop the boards breaking over the joists. if the doors have a standard threshold then there is another 35mm there to play with.

So I’m not sure of the issue ..?? 12mm OSB Sheathing Breather membrane 160mm PIR 18mm OSB T&G GRP That takes you to 195mm ish leaving 55mm or a little higher for decking and support. That could be as simple as 18mm Deckboards on 60x30 framing sat on 10-20mm adjustable deck pads. That gets you to min regs and a full warm roof build up.