carlb40

This might help. https://www.forza-doors.com/performance-guides/general-guidance/fd30-fd60-timber-frame-minimum-dimensions-and-specification.aspx

XL joinery offer a bespoke door service, so you could try asking them if they can make that style of door to FD30 specifications.

I try to square the joists up as much as possible. I usually take measurements from both the longest walls and ridge beam and try to square off those, so that any boarding is square to the joists. Then if the gable is out i can just add an extra joist to catch ply/ plasterboards etc. The last big roof i worked on was about 30 mtrs long and the main roof was put on by people who didn't know what they were doing. The ridge beam was out of level by about 70 or 80 mm i think, which caused the rafters ( metal web joists) to protrude past the inner wall too much at one end causing me an issue with the box gutter. Because the joists were not squared up properly too when installed, every sheet of ply on the roof had to be cut to suit each joist.

Lime / sand mix was used when i was on a bricklaying course many many years ago, they used it so it can just be remixed and reused after every session.

Brackets that hold X kilo's are all well and good, but the fixings need to be able to take the weight too. Personally if you have the space? I would make a floor standing storage unit, so you can sit the tank on top and still have storage underneath.

I have used the clear version of that on my polythene greenhouse just over 2.5yrs ago and it's still stuck solid now.

The old rule used to be 2.5 times the thickness of the material being fixed. So if you were fixing a 25mm item, you would use around a 65mm screw.

Buy shorter timbers, they are less likely to warp. Plus go to a proper timber merchants that can machine the edges square and true. Yes i know you can buy ready planed timbers, but a proper machine shop will put the timbers over a surface planer first to get 2 straight/square edges and then through a thicknesser to get the opposite edges parallel.

Keep the first piece of cladding that has the angle on it and use it as a template. The angle should be the same all the way up. Once you have the first piece cut and are happy with the fit, get the 2nd piece and lay it on the first one with the left side flush. Then you can mark the 2nd board off the first on the short point of the angle, that then becomes the start of the long point on the next board. Hope that makes sense?

Do you have any hospitals being built near you? A lot use this now, so if you have one near you a word with the site manager might get you the details of companies they use. :)

Keku clips are designed for just this. https://www.screwfix.com/p/hafele-keku-fixings-m4-x-48mm-10-pack/8663t These or metal versions are what are used to hold the panels in place in public toilets in shopping centres/ supermarkets etc. They also come in a slide up/down version.

You can do it with matching solid timber and a round over router bit. https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Large_Ovolo_187.html Bottom of the list is the largest one they do. You would need to use it in a router table, but a temporary one with a basic fence will take 30 minutes if that to knock up.

That isn't that hard to overcome. I made some mdf shelves at home and bull nosed the edges myself. Sanded them to 320g then put a coat of zinser BIN on, let it dry and gave it light sand and then a 2nd coat of zinser BIN. Again once dry it was lightly sanded and a few coats of normal undercoat were put on, sanded between each coat. While not as smooth looking as the un machined face of mdf, it is almost as smooth as a babies bum. :)

Surely any of the xps 100/300 rated products will do the same job?

The bottom of the door has a groove machined into it, the drop seal is fixed into the groove. On the hinge side of the door there is a peg that protrudes and as soon as you close the door, the peg gets pushed in and the seal drops.