Blooda

And then you think, it must be easier to build from scratch. And then you think, I should have stuck to a bit of decorating.

We had a Proaktive Self Build Policy by Aviva, arrange by local insurance broker Sam at P F Spare Insurance Brokers - Leicestershire based Brokers of Personal and Commercial Insurance since 1962 Make sure you get the estimated cost right, and add some, as changing this later can be costly. We excluded tools and equipment based on the fact, any hired equipment would include insurance, subby's equipment would be covered by their own insurance.

We changed ours the day we got the completion certificate. We were extending the self build insurance on a monthly basis at the end, as we were trying to get it over the line. We still had our previous house - so officially we [me and wife] moved in new house on that day. Son officially stayed at old house (student so 0% Council tax), until it was sold.

Ask how much it would be to send someone out to measure. It may be not too bad, for the reassurance.

An end cap on the drain pipe and cover on the access chamber wouldn't go amiss, to prevent unwanted egress of stuff.

Depends where you are draining to, if you are draining to foul drain, then a waterless valve [commonly known by the trade name of the leading brand HepvO, or more colloquially known as a <Censored> Trap] is to be used. This is because a U Trap can dry out and let smells up into your MVHR, and by nature of design distribute those smells throughout the house.

Not sure if that is suitable name for a house

Our Planning permission, was for an address in a different street, with a different post code. It was in a rear garden, with new access in a deferent road, but referred to the donor property..... We did explain this to the HMRC in the covering letter, to avoid confusion, but they still asked why there was a different address on the PP to that on the House on the claim. Much as I was tempted to spell it out that I had already told them this, I politely wrote back explaining why..... Not best to wind someone up who owes you £30k +

Just blame it on COVID.

I lifted the Lawn Mower up 4 steps for 24 years at our previous house. It was imperative I wasn't doing it at our self build. Easier to design in from the start than to retrofit.

It is unlikely they will accept payment VAT free [unless you are personally VAT registered. If you pay, get them to change the name on the invoice to yours, then you will not have any problems with your VAT return. If they will not change it. Make a note in your covering letter when you come to make a claim. We mentioned something like, "this invoice is from a merchants that only deal with the trade, our tradesman ordered, and we paid with credit card, the credit card statement is available on request".

We are on OVO heat pump tariff. They do not control the heat pump, under the t&c's they can only read data.. They take the kWh used via the API [as long as you have an internet gateway and right model of heat pump], in a month and knock off the difference between your standard rate and 15p /kWh the next month. Cozy would have saved me 40p a year, as we like to cook dinner at their peak rate.

I believe using the same coloured wool as the sock was banned by law 😀

The suppliers of mist systems and sprinklers should be able to provide this as part their service to provide the equipment.

You can get cheap crack monitors fairly cheaply from amazon. Fitting these would give you an idea of if and how much the cracks are moving. Also will give the neighbours the comfort you are taking this seriously. Crack Monitoring Record and Tell-Tale Crack Monitor Kit for The Standard and Corner Tell-Tale Record : Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science Randomly found advert ^^^^^^ others are avaialble.

Engage with an accountant [or other financial expert, ie not someone hanging around a forum 🤔] , it may be beneficial to set up a company and run the build through that.

Morning @Alex Carr We have Vaillant Aerotherm, With 3 circuits, UFH, Rads, Towel Rail, and DHW. When I ordered this [full on covid] I didn't have a clue. but now have a bit more understanding. UFH is controlled by Emetti, Rooms Stats, [was 5 zones [7 loops] now rewired to 2] and wiring centre and Manifold. Room Rads - are controlled by Vaillant Sensocomfort. Towel Rails are on a timer to come on 20 mins morning and night. The first thing you need is the Vaillant Schematic, to ensure the installer has installed it as Vaillant designed.

Have you got the land already ? We had already purchased the land when we applied for our self build mortgage. land so all the "hard work" was done, and all the searches etc were still valid. So we used one of the cheap online quote finders, essentially a go compare type, We ended up with Home | Holdens Law Holden's Lancaster, who were very efficient, but as I said all the work was done in the purchase stage.

+1 for this, When we bought our plot, all we had was a PDF Topo Survey which by that time was a few years old. A phone call to the folks who did the survey, and discussions about costs for them setting out our build. and the Revit CAD file magically made it's way to the our Architect. As long as they haven't been financially bitten, a small outfit will help you, as that file will just sit on there computer for ever, and 50 pound notes for an email. After that we used them to set out the levels and foundations before digging, and then setting out the position of the building on top of the foundations. [all of which cost about 200 pound notes]

We bought our plot with outline planning permission, but only for "means of access". Appearance, Landscaping, layout, scale, were all reserved matters. "Means of access", was the contentious one due to location up narrow country lane, albeit in a 30mph zone. Along with detailed plans, traffic monitoring, splays etc for the access, The planning consultant included, various things like tree surveys, and drawing with sample layout and generic. When we bought, we employed architect to design and submit reserved matters.

Our Vent Axia Sentinel is also a quiet hum, it's in the loft and when in the loft can hardly hear it, and have to listen out for it. We hear it on when it ramps up to boost in room directly below, but it is soon forgotten when it is a constant speed. Nothing like a Dyson vacuum cleaner.

Update - Been told to stop dabbling by SWMBO. Upstairs - Rads did nothing, as expected and did start to condensate. Air Temp around 27 Downstairs this morning the floor was nice and cold with air temp 23 degrees, noticeably more comfortable than upstairs. But was "too cold" for SWMBO. Me and my lad tried to convince her that it was still a lot warmer than it is normally, but there was no argument. The agreement is we move the hall loop to be controlled by the rest of the downstairs instead of being with the lounge. And keep the lounge as a cool room 🥶. Probably take till next year for me to sort this out as ever.

Do a test piece in a place that does not matter or a couple offcut. Different to your position.. We needed to fix a small stud wall to the screed. So we did a trial with Adiseal Strongest Best Grab Adhesive & Sealant Sticking a foot long piece of studding to the concrete. Had to hit it with a sledge hammer to shift it, and then the timber split longitudinally. At that point we concluded it was good enough for the job. From what I remember the egger glue for the panels is expanding polyurethane glue, like gorilla glue, so not really suitable.

So now we have 180 C water flowing through the slab 😃 Room temperature 26o Interested to see how long it takes to have any effect.

The foul sewer can accept a certain amount of rain water, in fact the water board like a bit to be added as it helps keep the lumps moving. What they may not stand is a massive deluge in a storm [hence the attenuation at a controlled max flow rate] You need to go back to the water board say you have explored [with evidence] all the higher level solutions in the hierarchy and then see what they say.