Pocster

YES !!!! SKILLS !!! ??

Hmmmmmm . Well if I did it that way the timber would still need to be at an angle to meet the timber frame . My way propping it’s height up - oh ffs ! - does it matter !! ? Ran out of screws so this is where it is at the moment .

So ....

Or ! Vacuum insulation. Much much thinner for same u . But much more expensive...

Not sure what you mean . I was going to noggin across to my new wall off the timber frame ; like this

So ! Starting on the false wall . As mentioned can’t screw through screed as ufh at the edge ( my fault ) . So ct1 in the middle - screwed at edges

Dewalt - quality

LOL. No, the screeder did the screed (even though it has some slight cracking). It's like less than 2mm out across the entire floor! - top job! I'll do the other screed bits; but ok will reduce the cement in my mix ... ?

Hmmmmm, ok. I need my screed to be level with existing - so perhaps no fibres - didn't realise they effected the spreadability .....

65mm. Yeah it has a few cracks at joints. So I could stick some mesh in my extra screed pour? ; and some fibres aswell ( to reduce chances of cracks ) TBH if I mix 'screed' it's just going to be like my concrete anyway! 1:3 (cement to sand ) ratio perhaps more water so it flows better.... Could make my screed thicker!. No mesh around but have some rebar spare so could make a rough mesh. As insulation under shower tray and bath is pointless - perhaps I could just go 50mm insulation and then screed the rest.

OK! Related to my bathroom thread but specifically about floor and other issues. So!. We have large gaps for bath and shower tray to sit. Mainly so I can position waste and any necessary pipework. The floor as you can see is 150mm PIR then UFH screed. How should I fill these gaps once I know where my waste is going?. Just 150mm PIR and then mix my own screed? - I'm just worried the separate screed will not bond to the existing and therefore not be stable. 2nd issue is the false wall I must build to house the cistern and also hide a multitude of pipes etc. It needs to be away from the timber frame. Will this be strong enough for a timber mounted geberit frame?. Should I use steel brackets so that the false wall is tied to the timber frame for extra strength??? ( Photo shows frame and rough position of timber for the false stud wall).

Though my walk on / drive on roof is more complex I couldn’t penetrate the water proof layer but needed to have a layer to protect my vacuum insulation . I used a t & g type cement board . This gave stability and protected the insulation. I did also have more concrete ontop as well !

Council will make you remove them once all the neighbors complain! ?

Yep !

Nah get nice caps

Are these gates to keep people in or people out ??

If I've done it - you've got to do it! ?

Ok - more questions . Once ASHP is in assume I effectively have a hot and cold supply . Do I just connect these ‘mains in’ to Hep2o manifolds ? Then run 1 hot or cold pipe to every source ? If so should I run 15 or 22mm from manifolds ? How do the manifolds join together ? As I’m going to need a lot ! I see some manifolds are copper hep2o others just plastic and cheaper - does it matter ??

Yeah ; another job done . ct1 on all the solid white pipe stuff - those joints ain’t coming apart ! . Foil tape them aswell - just to be safe !

Yeah removed those also

Right ! All done ! . Taped all joints . Only thing left to do is get power to the unit and fit the condensation trap outlet thingy . Wasn't rocket science - but a surprising amount of work .

Yeah sorry about that . Mirrors and satin sheets removed now .

Depends on the view ?

Silent “Un”

So popped into bathstore to get a likely layout and pricing ....