Pocster

Schlüter stuff seems recommended with a nice price tag of course . So ! walk in shower form tray water proof kit ( presumably de coupling tile sheet goes ontop this ) Aquapanel or similar board for the walls ( should I use this on the ceiling also ) ?? Sounds easy (ish) enough - not sure why @Onoffmade such a meal of it ?

Right that’s pretty much it . Some extra noggins to support plasterboard at edges required later . Space infront of the vertical white pipes to allow for tv screen at end of bath . Space above where geberit cistern is going should allow for some recessed storage .

Yeah but that requires skill . Listening for a beep and tapping a block down requires very very very very little skill ...

Lol ! When I first started with metal I hated it - screwing it together and cutting it a right pain . Then I got into it ! . Loved every piece is dead straight - get a magnetic level and you are laughing . Back on timber now - prefer it . TBH as I will end up swapping between them it would be hard to choose one over the over . Do both ?

Ahhhhhhh I have ! All below ground is metal stud ( though I’ve only done a tiny portion) . Ground level just went with timber because it’s a timber frame ( yeah I know ! No logic there ) Underground metal stud photo ...

Stud work going good . More to add - but it certainly isn’t going anywhere !

I was getting ready to email eBay expecting it to be crap and get a refund . Worked really well . When my timber frame went up on the dwarf wall to support it the guy went “Wow! 2mm out - better than a professional “ . Have to be honest I laser checked every single block !

Ok : looked at these on line . Does that mean the tiles aren’t actually bonded to the concrete ? . Or does a decoupling mat have ‘gaps’ in it to allow the tile adhesive through ? Happy to use one if it solves potential problems later ...

Was looking at https://www.wetrooms-online.com/ for the walk in shower - any other recommendations or suggestions; any particular brands ?

Appreciate the heads up . Was going to set the shower tray level with the screed floor . To avoid cracking can I not use flexible tile adhesive on the floor ; and flexible grout ??

I did purchase a spinny laser initially for foundations and stuff . Very hard to see the dot in daylight but had a beepy sensor handheld unit - beeped when inline . All very expensive; so I bought a cheap eBay job straight from China . About a fifth of the cost - still works great now .

You mean it hasn't already????

YES !!!! SKILLS !!! ??

Hmmmmmm . Well if I did it that way the timber would still need to be at an angle to meet the timber frame . My way propping it’s height up - oh ffs ! - does it matter !! ? Ran out of screws so this is where it is at the moment .

So ....

Or ! Vacuum insulation. Much much thinner for same u . But much more expensive...

Not sure what you mean . I was going to noggin across to my new wall off the timber frame ; like this

So ! Starting on the false wall . As mentioned can’t screw through screed as ufh at the edge ( my fault ) . So ct1 in the middle - screwed at edges

Dewalt - quality

LOL. No, the screeder did the screed (even though it has some slight cracking). It's like less than 2mm out across the entire floor! - top job! I'll do the other screed bits; but ok will reduce the cement in my mix ... ?

Hmmmmm, ok. I need my screed to be level with existing - so perhaps no fibres - didn't realise they effected the spreadability .....

65mm. Yeah it has a few cracks at joints. So I could stick some mesh in my extra screed pour? ; and some fibres aswell ( to reduce chances of cracks ) TBH if I mix 'screed' it's just going to be like my concrete anyway! 1:3 (cement to sand ) ratio perhaps more water so it flows better.... Could make my screed thicker!. No mesh around but have some rebar spare so could make a rough mesh. As insulation under shower tray and bath is pointless - perhaps I could just go 50mm insulation and then screed the rest.

OK! Related to my bathroom thread but specifically about floor and other issues. So!. We have large gaps for bath and shower tray to sit. Mainly so I can position waste and any necessary pipework. The floor as you can see is 150mm PIR then UFH screed. How should I fill these gaps once I know where my waste is going?. Just 150mm PIR and then mix my own screed? - I'm just worried the separate screed will not bond to the existing and therefore not be stable. 2nd issue is the false wall I must build to house the cistern and also hide a multitude of pipes etc. It needs to be away from the timber frame. Will this be strong enough for a timber mounted geberit frame?. Should I use steel brackets so that the false wall is tied to the timber frame for extra strength??? ( Photo shows frame and rough position of timber for the false stud wall).

Though my walk on / drive on roof is more complex I couldn’t penetrate the water proof layer but needed to have a layer to protect my vacuum insulation . I used a t & g type cement board . This gave stability and protected the insulation. I did also have more concrete ontop as well !

Council will make you remove them once all the neighbors complain! ?